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Discussion Starter #1
Almost at the end of a 2000+ mile road trip. While at my last fuel stop, the starter wouldn't engage when I pressed the button. Was too hot and loaded down to bump start it, gave the button one last try and she fired up. Got here and the button again does not work. Battery shows 12.8V. Any clues? I need to get home tomorrow so that I can be ready for a medical procedure on Friday and home is still 500+ miles away.
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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38,048 Posts
The first thing to check for a no crank situation when you have a working clock is the clutch lever safety switch and the two wires to it. Usually a wire comes loose. If the wires are okay, try connecting them together. If that works, '06 bikes and earlier will work fine that way but can surprise a rider who hits the start button with the bike in gear. '07 and later 650s don't idle properly with the wires jumpered.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks. The connector under the clutch lever had come loose. Now I can wake up and roll.
 

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This is mostly aimed at Greywolf but anybody intimate with Suzuki wiring, please advise. My son's SV650 suddenty refused to start. When the start button got pressed the headlight dimmed. This convinced me that I had a problem with the starter or solenoid. The bike was still under warranty so I trailered it 50 miles only to have the dealer's mechanic plug in the clutch switch connector and start the bike. Very embarrassing for an engineer. Later, I buried my Wee-strom in sand after a tank-slapper on a gravel road. Afterward, it erratically acts like the SV, making me think I've got grit in the clutch switch. The question, after all this rambling, is how is it that pushing the start button will dim the headlight when the clutch permissive is open? I expected nothing at all to happen when permissives aren't satisfied. The dealer's mechanic just shrugged when I asked him. After all, it was fixed so what did he care?
Thanks,
John Hjersman
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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38,048 Posts
Pressing the starter button doesn't dim the headlight, it shuts it off. The headlight power runs through normally closed contacts on the starter button. This allows the headlights to stop drawing power when the button is pushed, providing more for the starter and preventing surges when the starter disengages from getting to the headlights. This unfortunately creates a weak spot in getting power to the headlight. Adding a headlight relay kit fixes that nicely.
 

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Greywolf. You're right. I remember now that someone pointed out to me that the lights actually go out. My misperception that they dimmed is what got me off on the wrong diagnostic foot. I obviously suffer from CRS. I wasn't aware that it was as simple as a NC contact in the starter switch. Thanks a bunch.
John Hjersman
 
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