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My '06 DL650 with 1700 km has stalled twice in the last 50 Km or so. In both cases it was at low speed ... I was almost stopped in fact ... it acted like I had switched off the ignition. It started again without any problem.

The only thing I can correlate this with was an extremely bumpy high speed ride over some rough road, just before the first incident. Maybe something electrical came loose.
The Soozie service man I asked about it said maybe the ground connection to the battery had come loose (?) .. it hasn't.

Has anybody had this happen?
 

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I'm getting the same problem w/ my Litre 'STROM, and I double checked , when the V' s warmed to 2 bars on the guage I'm idling @ less than 1000rpm Could you point the way to a novice F.I. bike pilot?? where do I ( and anyone else ) adjust the idle speed ?? :oops: thanx jack
 

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Left side, a bit below the tank. It's the phillips head screw by the engine mount, kinda there looking right at you.
 
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stalling

I have a 2005 wee strom. I have 1800(approx)km's. I have had my bike stall twice for no apparent reason. My idle is 1200. I don't know why
 
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My DL1000K5 has done this 4 times in the 4,000 miles I put on it. Last time was 2 up and the road was canted and I could not touch ... it was an almost over we go, but managed to catch it. I was at a stop sign and was just ready to take off when it died. (A T intersection going up hill) We started to go over .. I reach for the ground ... Nothing... I manage to shift my ass over to get more reach and Just catch it before we hit the point of no return.

Time before was as I was pulling into the post office parking lot on a down shift. Motor died as I was letting out the clutch and chirped the rear tire... managed to get the clutch in ASAP. A beginner would have most likely dropped it the last two times. The others were not anything of consequence.

I have read about this problem on all the forums. I has to be electrical IMHO.

My Idle is plenty high. At first I thought it was my TRE as the first time was right after I installed it. But not again for a LONG time. I had just got the bike so I only had a very few miles on it before I put the TRE in and changed tires,. installed center-stand and put on my Manta.

It feels just like hitting the kill switch.
 

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JohnInNH said:
My DL1000K5 has done this 4 times in the 4,000 miles I put on it. Last time was 2 up and the road was canted and I could not touch ... it was an almost over we go, but managed to catch it. I was at a stop sign and was just ready to take off when it died. (A T intersection going up hill) We started to go over .. I reach for the ground ... Nothing... I manage to shift my ass over to get more reach and Just catch it before we hit the point of no return.

Time before was as I was pulling into the post office parking lot on a down shift. Motor died as I was letting out the clutch and chirped the rear tire... managed to get the clutch in ASAP. A beginner would have most likely dropped it the last two times. The others were not anything of consequence.

I have read about this problem on all the forums. I has to be electrical IMHO.

My Idle is plenty high. At first I thought it was my TRE as the first time was right after I installed it. But not again for a LONG time. I had just got the bike so I only had a very few miles on it before I put the TRE in and changed tires,. installed center-stand and put on my Manta.

It feels just like hitting the kill switch.
Doubt that it is electrical.....kicking up the idle speed didn't fix my problem. Once I adjusted the throttle cables "correctly", I haven't stalled since, or even come close!
 
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3-4x in 4K miles is not all that often. If it was a throttle cable problem I think it would be happen more frequently. I have yet been able to intentionally make it happen. If it was the throttle cables (mechanical) I should be able to replicate the problem.

"I haven't stalled since, or even come close!"

Mine has not done the "coming close" to stalling. It's going fine then just stops. No sputter no rough just the smooth steady purrrr, then dead. So maybe it's different for me.


"Once I adjusted the throttle cables "correctly""

Please explain to me how, or why, or what you think is wrong that would cause this to happen, and not happen more often if it's my throttle cables being adjusted incorrectly?

When it first happened to me I thought it was the TRE. (it was hard to reach w/o taking the tank off) So I reached in and pressed the connection to make sure it was clicked in/together OK

That "fixed" it for 2ooo miles... so that must have been that.. So it does it again... Maybe I should check the TRE again... since it "fixed" it before. (I was thinking of removing it to see if that helped)

The same could be said about the throttle cable adjustment. If I adjust my cables for you... and it does not happen for 2000 miles you could say that fixed it.... I could say that if I pressed the connection of the TRE again too.

LOL ... maybe we need to fiddle with SOMETHING every few thousand miles. to make it go away. Funny how it seems to keep needing to be fixed 1 or 2 times a year. Finicky these throttle cables. LOL

Seriously now. I think it's a FI issue, and for what ever reason it just skips a beat. Other FI bikes do it too. (so I have read) At 3000 RPM under power a single missed pulse is hardly noticeable, at idle it could mean it stalls.

I'll wave my magic wand around and say it's an electrical thing that happens and could probably write several pages of theory just as well as you could say it's a throttle cable sync or what ever.

It may be both! Any time you have a problem that happened every 2-3 thousand miles that is not repeatable it's close to imposable to say what it really is.

There was a very long and well written explanation of this same, or similar issue in the Le Mans forum. That is what influenced my waving it off as "electrical" . I wish I had it to link to it, it was a fantastic read. Really technical supported with facts about Fuel Management.

It's only one of 3 Fuel, compression, and spark. With FI electrical can be fuel too since it is an electrical fuel delivery system.

But for a motor to just quit at 1200 rpm for no apparent reason once in a blue moon seems to be more likely to be a hick-up in the FI.

If my cables were set up incorrectly I would expect it to happen with some more frequency AND be repeatable. As of now that has not been the case.

I agree it can not hurt to have your TPS set correctly, throttle bodies balanced, throttle cables set up correctly, and an fresh air cleaner, and a fresh oil change, and new plugs. But still after all that the bike stalls occasionally.

I will check the cables out... ;) Maybe after I adjust them correctly they will keep if from stalling for another 2000 miles. :D ... If it eliminates the problem thanks for the pointer... I hope so.

How often was yours stalling before you adjusted your cables? How often now? If ZERO how many miles since you adjusted them?

Could be we also may have different reason(s) for our bikes stalling.

FI can be a blessing or a curse. Some FI bikes never run as well as 99% of the same make and model. No matter what they adjust or replace the bikes just don't work right. Only selling it seems to work. There is nothing like a car or bike that is right.. and nothing worse than one that never is right.

I had 2 cars in particular. A VW GTI that ran right for about 3 months. Purchased brand new. Than something went. I spent 1000s of $ and went to 4 different places to fix it. It could be made to run a little better but never "right" I lived with it and finally sold it.

I had a Subaru Imprezza that had a mysterious problem 2 dealers could not fix. It wold mysteriously speed up w/o any user input. Subaru changed it's fuel management system the following year as they had a lot of problems with it. (bad knock sensor feedback was one thing) I am sure it was the FI system being deficient. 100's in the Subaru forum had issues with bad Fuel management. with that year. 1997 IIRC.

I sold the car after dropping a grand into it w/o the problem being fixed. I wanted to return it 2 weeks after I got it, but by being the nice guy and not pushing the issue I ended up getting stuck with it.

Some cars are perfect and are just dead nuts on. My 1997 Dodge Cummings is one. It's coming up to 200,000 miles. I dread the day it rots out. (brake lines are already going.)

My 2000 Miata has some factory issues. Many had the dreaded stalling problem. Mine did not. It also did not have the crank shaft end cap bearing problem like many did. (total engine failure due to a bad lot of parts mixed in inventory)

Most of the cars that I have had over the years with problems have been electrical or more directly FI related. Fuel management. How do you figure out that your crank sensor magnet is weak? or that the placement of some hole is not off. (guzzi timing marks as an example)

Like with the V-Strom.. Our ECU's have a crap program. They ALL do. Finally in 2006 it's dialed in better... Dollars to donuts it's not the only little FI issue fixed.

I have felt a miss on the highway. It's once in a blue moon too just like the stalling. I right it off as a wind or surface change or my imagination. How sensitive are we to one pulse in on in 10,000? If a plug misses just once do we always pick it up? My "guess" is my stalling and the miss are one and the same.

I'm not complaining.. My V Strom runs great. It has a hick-up once in a LOOOONG while. It could run a little better at low RPM. (I bet an 06 ECU would work better than my 2005 ECU) but it's not bad enough to warrant a lot of hassle.

:idea: Poll time .. What do you think is causing V-Stroms to stall

Idle to low
FI hick up
TPS off
Throttle bodies need syncing
Throttle cables adjusted incorrectly
Bike just do this every now and again
Quit you bitching my car stalls more.
Charcoal Fuel canisters full
needs a tune up
Numb nutz you bumped you kill switch
Water in your gas
Loose wire
Octane to high
Not using synthetic OIL
USING synthetic
Loose relay
Other
All of the above
None of the above

:wink:
 

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The throttle cables go to one unified arm to control the TB's.

If your idle is set correctly, you can play with your cable's all day long and it shouldn't affect anything except the play at the grip (and if too tight your idle speed will rise).

I don't see how it could cause any issues.

Probably just an FI glitch.
 

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I have this same problem and beleive it to be FI related. It happens when slowing quickly for a stop- I'll get to second gear, then the clutch in until I stop, and then sput, engine dies. It's got to the point where I have to give it a few RPMs as I'm stopping with the clutch in. Weird.
 

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Mine hasn't stalled in over 6500 miles...and I have around 7700 miles logged now. We all know that this FI system is flaky...but it still seems to be better than the system in the BMW's. :) I feel that if your throttle tube doesn't snap back firmly on this bike...then it can cause it to die, in conjunction with a low idle speed. Granted I adjusted the TB's and throttle cables at the same time.....I can't say for sure which helped the most.

John, the fact that your bike does this with no regularity...is very strange indeed. Mine did this with great regularity! :shock: I believe that it is a combination of things, which the FI glitch makes it worse. I am gonna pull my secondaries out, when I change my air filter. I am curious, as to how the bike will run afterwards. :wink:
 
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BBurton,

I have spent most of the last few years dittling with my Le Mans... It is a thing of joy now .. took some time and there are PLENTY of things wrong with then (well we Guzzi folk call it character) The first year or 2 works the bugs out .... .Then once you get the hang of it it usually is fine.

I'm new to the Suzuki, and it's my first chain bike since back in the 70's had belts on the HD's Shafts on the 2 BMWs and 3 Guzzi.

So now I am starting to tinker and dial in the V-Strom. The forums are a huge help. Stromettes gearing change is on my list with my new chain at the beginning of next year. Installing the V-1 and dialing in the wind screen. MP or +3" Manta. Maybe a top case too.

The V-Strom is very car like in it's start up and EFI. Only real difference is it not being closed loop. I am still a little put off by the bad ECU programming opted for the yosh tweak but will get a PC-IIIR as soon as they make one. I am convinced some *timing* and fueling would smooth out the 2500-4000 range.

The shift in feel of the motor at 4k is so dramatic it makes me think it is absolutely a fueling issue. You can feel the fueling "shift" at the exact same RPM every time. It's not all that progressive of a change it's a real change. I would LOVE to see the #'s or a 3D map of the values in the ECU AND be able to change them.

Not all that much difference between my 1100 Le Mans and the V-Strom. The 2000 RPM - 3000 is very usable while on the V-Strom it is not. I bet it could be.

A few minor things that bug me like the fairing, impossible to shift from 1st to 2nd flawlessly. I still can't figure it out. The some times "snick" w/o a crunch or any problem... To only get it to do that every time. the controls could be a little more user friendly like the hi-low beams .. All minor nits.

Bikes have come SOOOooooooooooo far over the years. Thinking back to my 6 volt 1957 pan head or 60's Triumph makes me sorta laugh at all our bickering :lol:


I think we all have a fairly good time here. Lots of good fun.

dmf109 ... yep that's exactly when mine does it too. It could be the base idle or as we defined it "Idle dip" in the Miata Forum. Mechanically the idle is set lower than the idle the ECU will bring the bike up to. So when you do a quick throttle cut off the idle will dip below the point the bike can recover or run at before the ECU brings it back up to the point it wants the idle to be.

We can change it incorrectly and set the idle so that it will not dip and pull up so you are setting idle mechanically bu keeping the throttle open a little and not using the ECU to set the idle.

"What do you mean ya don't set the idle with the throttle screw? Worked for me for 30 years... Nope, with FI you have a procedure to set the idle and the ECU controls it. So then you get idle dip and stalling. So some of us don't follow directions and turn the damn screw anyway. Gad it runs so much better too! " :shock:

For the Miata, or Guzzi idle setting procedure.. Most say screw it! (literaly the throttle screw) and screw (figuratively) the procedure and are much happier because of it.

Maybe I should up the idle on the V-strom a 100 or so. It helped my Le Mans. I run the idle on the high side of the norm.

Unlike my old pan head which I could really get to idle LOW. Paa ... ta ..to.... Paa...ta.... to Paa...ta....to A few hundred maybe???

No tach on it ... It would crumble if it did.. last maybe a day.. LOL.... Hard mount motor on a hard tail ... It was tough on everything! But it was soooo cooool! :wink: That 1 gallon peanut tank did not get me to far.
 
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