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Discussion Starter #1
I searched but cannot find the answer....
I am replacing my chain and sprockets and am wondering if anti seize is recommended for the countershaft sprocket nut? I have changed two before (SV 650 and the Strom to 16T) and did not use anti seize. Removal of the nut today was nothing less than a B*tch!

Yes I bent the washer back down first.

After busting my stones last night trying to break it loose,I used Kroil and let it set overnight. Today it took some doing, but I was able to get it loose.

Do any of you use anti seize?

TIA:mrgreen:
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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I searched but cannot find the answer....
I am replacing my chain and sprockets and am wondering if anti seize is recommended for the countershaft sprocket nut?
No. High strength thread locker such as red Loctite is specified. New sprocket nuts have it pre-applied. Heat can be used to defeat it but a long breaker bar or an impact gun are the usual removal tools.
 

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Evolving Curmudgeon
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What GW said plus I take them off with the chain still on and the rear brake locked.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks Pat, glad I asked first.
I used a breaker bar, but it was still tough....no impact wrench available... yet.
 

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Comes off easy with an impact. I never have tried it any other way.
 

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Countershaft sprocket

I have now changed Hmmm...8?...10? or more countershaft sprockets in 42, no count again...44years! I remember to this day changing the sprockets of my first bike, a worn out Yamaha YD3. My experience was similar to your post, was I mad. Just 18years old, my first attempt to undo was the wrong way which added to the..Joy? With borrowed tools, 'cos I didn't own any then, I slipped a meter (3') length of pipe over the socket handle. With my dear old Mum ducking low and holding the pipe, I took a swing at it with the back of an axe! Off it came just in time to save me from an internal explosion. OH! I do remember!

To this day I never over torqued this nut, just a solid twist on the wrench and always folding down the tab washer. I never experienced a problem from this method.

I once bought a very cheap but good little Yamaha 500 DOHC about a 1976 model (TX500?) with a spare engine as the gear box was shot, jumping out of first gear at every attempt. A good wash and an inspection found it was only a v loose countershaft sprocket. On tightening it up I had a perfect $500 bike.

One learns every day.

Saturn 5...the heavy lifter
 

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Mine came off using a 1/2 inch drive socket wrench. I put a foot on the brake and leaned over the seat. I have an impact wrench but did not need it. I am getting ready to switch from the 16 to a 17 tooth. The 16 lowered the rpms but no real change in mileage. Good for highway but more shifting needed on the daily commute.
 

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I used a breaker bar, but it was still tough....no impact wrench available...
An impact wrench wouldn't touch mine. I used a breaker bar with a long piece of pipe on the end. I also slipped an iron bar through the wheel and across the chain stays to stop the rear wheel from turning.

The local shop put it on with an impact wrench and I suspect it was overtorqued.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I use the pipe through the wheel with padding as to not scratch anything. The breaker bar worked but it took alot of oomph to get it to break free. I did not overtorque it when I put the 16 tooth on...maybe I am just getting weaker with the added years :yikes:
 

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Remove any rust or dirt on the threads before you take the nut off. One of the small, toothbrush size wire brushes works, maybe with some penetrating oil if needed. Clean any oil off with solvent before Loctiting. If there is any thread damage spotted, dress the thread with a 3-corner jeweler's file.
 

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I changed mine using a 1/2 drive ratchet set and a piece of pipe that I found in the yard. It's about two feet long and we, my wife and I, refer to it as the "magic pipe" because we have used it for so many projects. My wife volunteered to hold the rear break while I leaned on the bar and it came loose. Took a little persuading, but not too much, and the replacement was a breeze. :beatnik:
 

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Discussion Starter #13
the job is an easy one....just need me one of them "Magic pipes" to help with the physics of bustin the nut loose.:mrgreen:
 

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Mine came off using a 1/2 inch drive socket wrench. I put a foot on the brake and leaned over the seat. I have an impact wrench but did not need it. I am getting ready to switch from the 16 to a 17 tooth. The 16 lowered the rpms but no real change in mileage. Good for highway but more shifting needed on the daily commute.
Same here. I just used a normal 10" long 1/2" drive rachet, bumped it a few times with the palm of my hand, and it loosened up.
 

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:) HI Everyone, New Bikes and bikes that have had the sprocket nut loctited can be really tough to break free and remove the first time.

For that reason and more, I do not thread lock the Sprocket Nut ever, nor do I recommend it to anyone.

Use the good and snug-tight approach, Avoid Going Gorilla attempted to make sure it really is a tight as it can get, Do not use Loctite period on the counter shaft Sprocket Nut, and Do bend over the tabbed Sprocket Washer to lock down the Sprocket Nut,

It will all be good and changing Countershaft Sprockets will now be quite so daunting a task,

Have Fun for the Holidays,

Enjoy the ride, and best regards,
Blair
 

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I follow the specs because...

My o6 needed long breaker bar on 1/2 drive to "pop" off (suprised the cheap harbor freight swivel ratchet survived (I now have breaker bar after that job).

I was shocked when my 07 nut that best my knowledge was factory (2200miles on bike) came off with a mild twist of my wrist. It had red loctite on it and glad to see no damage as felt that was "loose".

For that reason I made sure to clean, use red loctite, and torque wrench to spec. I wonder if that would have worked it into a problem had I not decided to put the 16T on at 2200 miles - and who put that on in Suzuki land??

BTW - Just decided the other day that I may go back to try stock 15T again. I have been flipping a coin on this for a while and with no long desolate straight road trips planned I'll take the better pep out of the hole and figure I can handle CA commute at 5800 rpms as needed for spots (will be interesting so see if commute gas mileage changes).
 

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Mine came off using a 1/2 inch drive socket wrench. I put a foot on the brake and leaned over the seat. I have an impact wrench but did not need it. I am getting ready to switch from the 16 to a 17 tooth. The 16 lowered the rpms but no real change in mileage. Good for highway but more shifting needed on the daily commute.
Not long after I purchased new my '07 650 I decided to go up one tooth on the counter shaft sprocket. I wrongly believed that new, it came with a 16t. So I ordered and installed a 17t. This meant going up 2 teeth from original. I immediately found 17 was too tall a gear and I reverted to the original 15 till a new 16t could be had. I have ridden with 16t for years now and find it good in all riding except in slow traffic which I usually avoid.
I'm sure you will find 17t too tall as I did, even highway riding will have you changing gear often, even on moderate hills. The bike will loose it's pep.
 

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Evolving Curmudgeon
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I went from the 15T to a 17T and back to the 15T for the same reasons.
 

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counter sprocket almost loose - again..

Note sure it this is place to post but since topic is general her it is

I posted above that my 07 sprocket came off real (too) easy about at 2200 miles. I torqued the 16 Tooth to spec at that time with red loctite and bend washer.

After my above post about that, I since replaced 16T back to 15T. during this more recent process , when I went to remove the nut is was also looser than I expected. If was not as loss as from factory at 2200 miles but I would guess that it to be about 40 or 50 ft-lbs pressure to remove what I had installed to spec at 2200 miles switch (i have about 17k now).

This seems unusual to me. When I last placed the 15T back on I replaced the red locktite, torqued to spec and bent the washer (as I did first time). The sprocket does not seem a loose fit on the shaft.

I know I should not be griping about easy removals but should I be concerned there is something weird with this bike's shaft? Seems to run fine and not sure what else I could check if the washer looks bent down ok (guess I could try to mark it somehow).

Seems odd when removal of my 06 was ball buster as most others talk about.
 

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:) Hi Mark, with the washer bent over the big nut will not back off or come off. The bent washer locks it down and prevents any movement,

You are good to go my friend, The one thing that I do, which I would recommend you follow, is that I bend the washer over on two sides of the large nut.

Enjoy the ride, and best regards,
Blair
 
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