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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Have a 2006 DL1000 that I recently purchased, chain has some stiff links, and I’m replacing it, I’ve always gone the route of new chain new sprockets, so looking to make some changes on the gearing side, I find that at 110km/h in 6th the bike is lugging a bit to much, would like to drop a tooth in the front and add a few in the back, but I’m finding so much conflicting information what the stock tooth combo for my 2006 is? I’ve seen 17/41, I’ve seen 16/41, so which is it? I’m thinking 17/41 is factory, with 112 link? But then I second guess myself. What I have read it sounds like 16/43 is a highly preferred combo, with a 16/43 setup, how many links? Appreciate the insight, I’ve read through a pile of chain and sprocket threads today lol
 

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I will add this to the conflict ... if you go 1 down/2 up front/rear from your current config, you will no longer be lugging except intentionally :p

I used a chain break tool and just measured when going 1 down on the front with a new chain on a 14 DL1000
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Yea, I wasn’t going to be able to order without knowing exactly what was on there anyway, out to the garage to take the front cover off. 17/41 on the bike, 16/43 and new chain in order.
 

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First off, what do you do with the bike? Lots of freeway travel at 70+ or hardly any of that.?
Gravel with too much clutch work in first gear or hardly any of that?
I run 17/43 as I do no off=road. I use 5th a lot and reserve 6th for high speed cruise. I have a 44T to put on next chain refresh as I still feel the 17/43 is still overgeared. One tooth in front is equal to 3 in back. 17T promotes long chain life.
If you are unsure of your options, ride the bike where you do, and do not engage 6th gear. This will approximate the 16/43.
Buy 116 links and cut to fit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
With 16/43 on the way, Speedo correction for the already 10% out speedo needed. Speedodrd seems to be well reviewed, any issues?
 

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Speedodrd seems to be well reviewed, any issues?
Worked fine on my bike. Easy to setup if you have a GPS you can use to track actual speed so you can figure out the correction factor.
 
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Should correct the odometer as well but I never checked
 

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The problem is they are tied together. Although the speedometer reads approximately 7% high the odometer is very accurate. So if you correct the speedometer now the odometer is 7% behind actual miles. I put a speedo healer on mine when I had everything off to do the valves and some other upgrades. If I had it to do over again I would not do it since my gearing is stock. It is pretty simple on the fly to simply subtract 10% from the speedometer which gives you a 3% margin to keep from getting a ticket. Now that my speedometer is right on I have to add 7% to the miles the odometer reads for fuel range and maintenance like oil changes so records have to be kept. I guess the plus side is my bike shows less miles that it actually has.
Of course when you do change the final gearing both the odometer and the speedometer are off. The only way to ever have both read correctly at the same time is to change the face of the speedometer which has been done.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Swapped on my new chain and new 16/43 sprockets, and I tell ya, why this bike wasn’t geared this way from factory is beyond me, picks up the front tire on command, and is in the heart of the power cruising at 70mph turning about 4,400rpm. Perfection.

The previous chain having frozen links spurred on the change, and by the looks of the front sprocket, things were due to be replaced.
Wheel Automotive tire Tire Rim Bicycle part
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Also ordered a speedodrd as I know it’ll bug me to not have things running the way they are supposed to. 🤦🏼‍♂️😆
 

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If you do not have a GPS just install a GPS speed Ap to your phone and secure it to the bars or screen and you will quickly learn your actual to indicated speed.
 
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