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Discussion Starter #1
Swapping the 15t to a 16t. I've got the sprocket washer bent back away from the nut face, new Harbor Frieght 1/2 drive impact gun running is lefty-loosy mode, air pressure set at 90psi (max per gun, which claims to torque to 250 ft lbs), gun running in it's highest power setting (1-4, set on 4) and that darn nut will not even budge. Run and run and run and run...

Tranny is in neutral, but the wheel is held in place up off the ground (centerstand) by a block of of wood, so the tire isn't spinning at all.

Thoughts?

Tried the socket wrench version last night, not effective either.

Until I get some info, I'm heading for the lowering link install part of my day.

Thanks.
 

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Hmmm. Got mine off with the same gun. Is it full on reverse mode? Sometimes if you don't get the lever all the way over, it won't get full power to the gun.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks guys, will recheck the gun direction lever (free spins counter clockwise) and will just set on center stand without the wood under the tire (between tire and floor). I'll report back.
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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Red Loctite is applied. Get out the torch. You need to heat it and use the impact wrench while still hot.
 

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Air tools is something it pays not to skimp on. I've had harbor freight air tools and the ones I've had are a joke.

My 1/2" drive Chicago Pneumatic impact took that nut off like nobody's business, red loctite or not. My harbor freight cut-off wheel stops turning if it even thinks it's close to the work surface.

I think I paid around $100 for my impact, well worth it.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Red Loctite is applied. Get out the torch. You need to heat it and use the impact wrench while still hot.
Air tools is something it pays not to skimp on. I've had harbor freight air tools and the ones I've had are a joke.

My 1/2" drive Chicago Pneumatic impact took that nut off like nobody's business, red loctite or not. My harbor freight cut-off wheel stops turning if it even thinks it's close to the work surface.

I think I paid around $100 for my impact, well worth it.
Heat- got it.

Well, my Chicago Pneumatic version cost me a whopping $19. Will try the heat tomorrow. If that doesn't do it, then I'll take it back and swap for another.
 

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SteveT, I used the cheapest Lowe's Kobalt 1/2" drive impact wrench, but it was rated at 350 ft lbs. Tranny was in neutral, bike on centerstand, rear wheel chocked with a long piece of round stock between the spokes and resting on the swingarm. Mine was Red Locktite'd on, but the countersprocket nut spun right off when I pulled the trigger.

I hope you don't need heat, but if you do, be precise and wrench it while it's hot.
 

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I've never done this myself, but a couple of comments:

1) I'd be careful with putting heat to that part - the countershaft seal may not care for it.

2) If this is the factory sprocket, it may have some threadlocker on it, but just because it's red doesn't mean it's red Loc-tite. The factory uses a threadlocker which is red but comparable to Loc-tite's blue stuff. It can be broken loose without using heat. Permanent threadlocker is usually only used on crucial engine internals.

Have you tried a big 'ol freakin' breaker bar on it?
 

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I agree, don't use the torch. Use a better impact gun with at least 125 psi. Mine came right off.
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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A more powerful impact wrench is best. Heat is the alternative. The stuff used on the nut is the stronger kind.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Did not try heat, but the gun is working as well as it can... given what it is. I, too, am suddenly concerned about applying heat without knowing if I could adversely affect something on the other end of that shaft.

Tried a 1/2" breaker bar, but did not have a cheater pipe over it. I'm limited with what I have on hand to act as a brace across the swing arm through the wheel, the beefiest item I had that would clear the rear brake line and still sit on the right side of the swing arm was a 24mm box end wrench. Okay, pretty stout, a big wrench like that, as much beef or more than a piece of rebar. (I just remembered the piece of 3/4" o.d. black steel pipe in a corner of the basement...) The wrench was bending as I was applying my body weight onto the breaker bar. That breaker bar had to be a good 15" long, and I'm at 215 pounds myself, so I was laying some serious weight onto that breaker bar without budging the nut and bending the box end wrench in the process.

The right side of my swing arm does not allow for something larger to be put across without removing the rear brake caliper and brake line from their mounted position.

So, I'm concluding that either I need a better quality impact wrench, or something out of the ordinary came from the factory with that nut.

I need a impact wrench like I need a hole in the head. This is the first time I've ever needed one, and the thought of spending money on a worthy tool that I'll touch once every few years at best does not sit well. I guess I could look into renting one for an afternoon. Or rolling the bike to the dealer, tell him to loosen it, then reset it to the proper torque (assuming proper is less than what its got now), then ride home and try the job again.

I guess one thought I've got it- these sprockets engage on the shaft with splines, the splines do most of the work, the nut secures the sprocket to the shaft against lateral movement. I think I've seen this torque rating at something above 100 foot pounds. Why so high? Seems a lower torque on that nut would be just as effective. But I'm no engineer, what do I know?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Thanks, Blair, that may be what happens.
 

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I got an electric impact wrench - Home Depot Rigid R6300. With the bike on the center stand, the lock washer flattened, a good 32mm impact socket, stand on the right side of the bike, foot on the rear brake, lean over the seat, and take it off. It is a piece of cake.

Any excuse to buy a new tool is irresistable. Now I can do/undo anything. These wrenches are great for lag bolt work, trailer hitch balls, etc.

Forget the block of wood stuff and the "breaker bars" they are a waste of time and downright dangerous - too springy to break anything loose.
 

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One of my torque wrenches has a 19" long handle. It takes the nut off with no problem. I think I paid less than $30 bucks (new price) for that wrench on ebay.

My wrench

I'm sure it's not the best quality, but for as little as I use it it's perfect for me.
 

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I got mine off with a standard length 3/4 inch drive socket wrench. I flattened the washer, put the wrench on the nut, straddled the bike with one foot on the rear brake and stepped on the wrench with my left foot. It popped right off with no real problems.
 

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When I run into a really nasty problem like this, that's when I head to the Stealer. Make sure you get a quote up front from them in writing. LOL I wouldn't think they'd charge much to change out a front sprocket. They'll earn every penny on that puppy.
 

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One of my torque wrenches has a 19" long handle. It takes the nut off with no problem. I think I paid less than $30 bucks (new price) for that wrench on ebay.

My wrench

I'm sure it's not the best quality, but for as little as I use it it's perfect for me.
They sell that same torque wrench at Harbor Freight. They also have the 3/8" & 1/4"(inch/lbs) wrenches, too.

When I took my front sprocket nut off, I just put a pipe above the swingarm and through the spokes, then used a 1/2" breaker bar about the length of Dirt_Dad's torque wrench. Came right off.

Found the big socket at Menard's.
 
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