Spark plugs at 30,000 miles/50,000 km
2013
17
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Personally I'd just replace them, certainly the rusty one simply because it may have weakened and spark plugs that fall apart can be very hard to remove.
As above though, everything looks pretty much as it should PROVIDED the dark ones didn't come from just one cylinder. The secondary plugs will generally differ from the ones up top, but that large a difference between front and rear would be an indication that valves need adjusting.
Also: You can't really regap iridiums, well you can but it needs a lot more care than normal because the tips are very fragile.
As above though, everything looks pretty much as it should PROVIDED the dark ones didn't come from just one cylinder. The secondary plugs will generally differ from the ones up top, but that large a difference between front and rear would be an indication that valves need adjusting.
Also: You can't really regap iridiums, well you can but it needs a lot more care than normal because the tips are very fragile.
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30,000 miles or 50,000k. I did replace them all. I inspected them at 15,000 miles I decided to go another 15k miles. I had the new plugs ready before I pulled these.
The one with the rusted nut is the bottom of the front cylinder. The spark plug boot doesn't cover the nut so it is exposed to all the road gunk. I ride through the winter so that includes salted roads.
That one is easy to access when the skid plate is off. So, I'll probably put an anti corrosion agent on the nut every oil change in the winter.
The one with the rusted nut is the bottom of the front cylinder. The spark plug boot doesn't cover the nut so it is exposed to all the road gunk. I ride through the winter so that includes salted roads.
That one is easy to access when the skid plate is off. So, I'll probably put an anti corrosion agent on the nut every oil change in the winter.
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117 Posts
I ride most days, but it's always garage kept. I even park in a garage at work.
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Partzilla only had three in stock. Revzilla had them all in stock and a bit cheaper than Partzilla.Have a hard time getting those LMA spark plugs? Did you replace them with LMA's? Or something else?
DANG!
15 09482-00635 PLUG,SPARK (LMAR8BI-9) $26.99 $25.10 4 In-Stock
I recently did a valve check at 103,000 kms and they were still right on.They were also at 50,000. I changed out the gas filter,air filter,coolant and plugs while in there.Mileage was fine at the time and the plugs looked good but on amazon.ca a four pack was only $40 canadian so cheap enough for peace of mind just to change them out. No oil usage so my next check should be 150,000 kms next.
The browned one. Yep.
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If it is counterfeit than Suzuki installed a counterfeit as that was the original spark plug. It felt properly tight when I removed it. The rust is almost certainty due to the location of that plug. It is the only plug with the nut exposed to road gunk. The boot on the lower plug does not cover the nut like it does on the upper plug.
For my comment Andrewhartzell, I was looking at the threads of the top one. The crusty exterior is clearly a result of its outside environment. Can't be helped. Lots of compressed air before the plug is extracted.
There was a mention of counterfeit NGK plugs on a different thread that I was a part of. The shi**y part of those things is on the inside. Amazon seems to be a part of those getting to market. Your irridium tips look perfect in the photos.
How to Spot Fake NGK CR9EIX (3521) Iridium IX Spark Plugs 2018
PLEASE NOTE - This article was written a few years ago so not all information provided may be accurate. For example, on some part numbers, NGK now uses Laser Etching instead of stamping, so the font information may not be accurate. Another Sparking Discovery One of NGK's most popular motorcycle...
www.driven2automotive.com
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Thank you or the clarification. it is possible that I didn't tighten the top (in the photo) plug properly after inspecting it at 15,000. In fact, I torqued them to 9.5 nm instead of the 11 nm spec for fear of them stripping early.
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