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Only a comment: I have seem worn iridium plugs and valves out of adjustment at 7000k's. The two things were not unrelated, some fool (not this fool :)) had revered the clearances on the rear pot which I think caused the plug problems.

The valves are worth checking but it's a bear to adjust them, first time I hit this on a 650 I checked them, then booked the bike in at the local dealer for the adjust when they needed it. Yes, there's some double handling that way but it gets you practice at the easy but time consuming bit (getting in and out) and maybe next time you'll feel confident enough to do the adjust yourself and you can save quite a bit of unnecessary mechanic time (Mostly they don't need adjusting).
 

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The valve adjustment is usually not a warranty item. It there was some other issue that required getting into the engine for warranty then I could see the dealer checking the valve clearance.

What was your case?
There was a recall for 2012~13’s I believe because of some valve train problems. Mine was done around 2016 I think. Might call the dealer with your vin.
 

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This one:

And, there was also this:
.

No need to contact any dealership. Go to the NHTSA site, to search for recalls by VIN:
(Scroll to the bottom.)
 

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Only a comment: I have seem worn iridium plugs and valves out of adjustment at 7000k's. The two things were not unrelated, some fool (not this fool :)) had revered the clearances on the rear pot which I think caused the plug problems.

The valves are worth checking but it's a bear to adjust them, first time I hit this on a 650 I checked them, then booked the bike in at the local dealer for the adjust when they needed it. Yes, there's some double handling that way but it gets you practice at the easy but time consuming bit (getting in and out) and maybe next time you'll feel confident enough to do the adjust yourself and you can save quite a bit of unnecessary mechanic time (Mostly they don't need adjusting).

Automotive lighting Automotive tire Bicycle part Cylinder Rim
 

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2016 DL650 bought used w/3600mi now 15000mi. 2004 Honda VTX1300 bought used w/1079mi now 103,000 mi.
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Has anybody had bad luck (ie fake) NGK plugs from Amazon?

I tried to order plugs from the local NAPA. They called me today, a week after I ordered them and told me that they can not get them.

Thanks
 

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Has anybody had bad luck (ie fake) NGK plugs Amazon?

I tried to order plugs from the local NAPA. They called me today, a week after I ordered them and told me that they can not get them.

Thanks
That NGK doesn't provide a way to verify the authenticity of their product aside from visual inspection is just so ridiculous. It could be as simple as a code to type into their website.

If you've got doubt, I'd just order plugs from a less brand-recognized maker like Autolite. I've been running the XS4302 (also iridium) in my '06 650 and they've been good for 20k miles so far.
 

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Hi
I have just completed a valve check on my 650L2 at 130k miles.

This is the fourth time I have checked them over nine years of ownership.

In all of those checks I have changed one inlet shim and five exhaust shims.

This last examination I found all were in spec, but the exhausts were in the lower range (front cylinder only) and I moved from a 169 shim to a 165, to move the gap to the upper range of adjustment.

They need checking over long ownership (35-40k miles) and it is a long winded job, but most satisfying for this home tinkerer, and you can check so many other things (which are difficult to get at during the riding season) coolant being the obvious one.
Its not hard, but following the manual and suggestions here and on the net, its doable.

Good luck.
Crazyhorse
 

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2016 DL650 bought used w/3600mi now 15000mi. 2004 Honda VTX1300 bought used w/1079mi now 103,000 mi.
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I chicken out on doing the valve inspection. I had the entire bike apart as far removing the front shroud/windshield/speedometer. I installed a new air filter I had. the old one looked great after 14,500 miles. I did measure the clearance on the rear cylinder. I could just barley squeeze in a .007 on the exhaust values. The spec is 0.008 to 0.012. The intake were at 0.005, with 0.004 to 0.008 for a spec. I just did not want to mess with taking the cams out. I dropped it off at the dealer this morning.
 

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ST Corndog is correct, most enjoy the bike. The car well not the same connection. Also many folks do not keep either one all that long. That is probably part of the reason for not feeling the need for scheduled maint. Lack of care creates a opportunity for a classified deal. As issues add up folks tap out. JMHO
 

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I've done the same with the 650. Check myself and take it to the dealer only if it's out of spec.
The 1000 is a bit easier, a bit. Mainly I did that myself because the local dealer changed hands and the better mechanics left.
 

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...
Most modern cars use a shim under bucket valve train and operate at close to the same rpm. Yet, when was the last time, if ever, you thought about the valves in your $40,000 car?
Most modern cars do NOT use shim under bucket. They use hydraulic 'lifters' that are directly actuated by the cam if over head cams. If still cam-in-block design, then they truly are lifters, but not what I would call 'modern' design. Modern automotive engines actually operate at zero lash as long as there's oil pressure in the engine. So you don't think about adjusting them because there's nothing to adjust. Granted, I've not had a DL650 engine apart, but I HAVE been through many motorcycle and auto engines. Last year I rebuilt a Suzuki H25a (DOHC, hydraulic lifters) and those make an awful racket until the lifters fill with oil. Once they are full, the only thing you hear is the chains.
 

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From the UK site ... www.themotorbikeforum.co.uk ... worth a look chaps ...

Booked the Strom in to have it's valves done...

This is the biggest service on the Strom and once done the engine can go for 50k miles before it needs doing again ..

£558

Why ?, the access to the cylinder heads is terrible, half the bike need to be dismantled to get access.

The price includes oil and filter change, air filter change, fresh coolant.

The dealer Mechanic doing the work is also an owner and rider of the same year Strom and well experienced at doing the task.



To finance the work i've sold one of my MZ 125 restoration projects, it will cover 75% of the cost, free up shed space, and allow some actual progress on the other 2 ... maybe ...

I'm 65 next birthday and am becoming more and more focused on riding than restorations. I've rebuilt 16 bikes in the last 20 years to "oily rag", MOT'd, back on the road status. I've been spannering since i was 10, ( I invented the Skateboard !! ), Bicycles, fast jets, motorcycles, cars, ... trains .... now I just want to ride ......
 
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Sorry, repeat post, my bad.

Checking the clearances on the DL's is relatively easy. That is worth learning, then if they do need adjusting consider buttoning it back up and having a shop do the adjust. Main point is that half the shop time will be getting in, doing the check. If there's no change needed that is wasted money - if they need to be adjusted, not so much, in fact it's probably good value compared to the aggravation saved.

I have done the adjust on a 1000, it wasn't trivially easy but in the end I got it done, the 650 is harder. I'd probably would have had a shop do it but I have low confidence in the local dealer.
 

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2016 650 V-Strom
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Considering the comment herein; I've booked my 2016 650 with 18800 miles on the clock to have the valves done in 2 days time ...
Why ? Because that what it says in the manual..
My engine is smooth, quiet, only noise is the "whoosh" of the cam chains.
No knocks, ticks, tocks, rattles, pops ..... just whoosh .....
So ... why am i about to spend $600 to have them checked ??
With tappets you know when to adjust them as they go quiet / really noisy .... what about bucket and shim ???
Should i leave the check until a higher milage. ??
 

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So ... why am i about to spend $600 to have them checked ??
Has the valve clearance ever been checked before? Spec is every 15K miles. The first one is the most important, if you've already done that one then I think you can wait a while before checking again.

Hopefully the $600 includes adjustment as well as checking clearance. If they've never been checked then it's likely some will need adjustment, probably exhausts.
 
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