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I have an 09 ABS 650 with 29500km and decided to do a plug change. Plugs cost about $19.50 and thought it should not be too hard to do. Three were OK but the one behind the radiator is a little prick.

The manual says to move the radiator forward for access and there is an upper bracket bolt on the LHS and RHS. LHS ok but the RHS seems to be only a rubber grommet.
I found by taking out the LHS top and LHS bottom brackets i could get just enough room for a plug socket. Worked but lost copious quantities of blood doing so.
Worth the effort as the bike is noticeably better, but is there a better way!
Also need some replacement plastic studs for joining up the front fairing, is there a supplier without going to Suzuki.

Ride on.:headbang:

Gary
 

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There is a better way

Iridium spark plugs.

Replace them every 100,000km
 

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Better to loose a bit of blood than damage the fragile fins on the radiator, hate to know what a new radiator would cost.

I don't know about anyone else, but I found the best thing to remove the plug was with the spanners povided in the tool bag ( and a lot of patience), they are the perfect lenght.

If there is a better way, I would like to know too.
 

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Do they come in a yellow canister with overalls and breathing apparatus?:mrgreen:
No, but they do come with one of those blue tag thingo's that you hang around your neck.
It seems that if it changes colour you need to get to hospital pronto for mega doses of iodine.
:green_lol::green_lol::green_lol:

My next set of plugs will be Iridium, my mechanic changes the standard plugs at every service :furious: he likes to make profit on unnecessary parts sales I think :fineprint:
 

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I have an 09 ABS 650 with 29500km and decided to do a plug change. Plugs cost about $19.50 and thought it should not be too hard to do. Three were OK but the one behind the radiator is a little prick.

The manual says to move the radiator forward for access and there is an upper bracket bolt on the LHS and RHS. LHS ok but the RHS seems to be only a rubber grommet.
I found by taking out the LHS top and LHS bottom brackets i could get just enough room for a plug socket. Worked but lost copious quantities of blood doing so.
Worth the effort as the bike is noticeably better, but is there a better way!
Also need some replacement plastic studs for joining up the front fairing, is there a supplier without going to Suzuki.

Ride on.:headbang:

Gary
I follow the procedure in the service man. for checking valve clearance at the front cylinder. Plus I disconnect the electrical connections on the back of the shroud and remove the whole rad. Then you can use real tools, and it's a breeze. Bonus, you can change your coolant.:hurray:
 

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Better to loose a bit of blood than damage the fragile fins on the radiator, hate to know what a new radiator would cost.
A way to protect the radiator fins and save your knuckles is place a piece cardboard or something similar over the inside of the radiator while you are working there.
 

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Also need some replacement plastic studs for joining up the front fairing, is there a supplier without going to Suzuki.
Small black cable ties work for me. I got tied of paying Suzuki 80 cents each for the clips.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Better to loose a bit of blood than damage the fragile fins on the radiator, hate to know what a new radiator would cost.

I don't know about anyone else, but I found the best thing to remove the plug was with the spanners povided in the tool bag ( and a lot of patience), they are the perfect lenght.

If there is a better way, I would like to know too.
The OEM spanners were perfect, just a real bitch getting access to the front plug, Now i know how it can be done next time will be easier.
What i wanted to know though, is there a bolt holding the radiator to the top RHS bracket. I have an 09 and it seems to only be a rubber grommet on a shaft.
The cardboard trick is a good idea.
 

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Speaking of plugs I remember the best spark plug thirty years ago was a Golden Lodge plug that had a centre electrode and FOUR areas of contact at 90degrees so the gap did not vary over long use .

Well I found Bosh actual make them or something similar they are exspensive have a look at Supa Cheap next time they keep them under lock and key > I have fitted to one vechicle already .I will fitt the to one of my bikes soon when I replace plugs next . I have personal experence with old Golden Lodge plugs lasting 160,000klm in a car .

have a look at the Bosh site
Bosch IR Iridium Fusion Spark Plugs at BoschSparkPlugs.net

I think they are about $80 for 4 plugs ,exspensive but they are basicallya lifetime plug if the work as well as the old golden lodge plugs did years ago .
 

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No need to remove radiator. Remove bottom bolt RHS and swing radiator forward, put a tie or something on it to hold it there, remove plug from LHS easy peasy. BTW radiator has 2 bolts on RHS and slides off a pin on the LHS.
 

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Threads like this annoy the shite out of me for now I think I should do plugs 24000k and the manwell says replace coolant every two years so I'm 12 months overdue on that :yikes:.I will go with the plugs that have a half life of a million years,hydraulic fluids are hygroscopic how often do you do brake fluid ?riding my wee is stress relief.:headbang::biggrinjester:
 

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Threads like this annoy the shite out of me for now I think I should do plugs 24000k and the manwell says replace coolant every two years so I'm 12 months overdue on that :yikes:.I will go with the plugs that have a half life of a million years,hydraulic fluids are hygroscopic how often do you do brake fluid ?riding my wee is stress relief.:headbang::biggrinjester:
When the brakes don't work if you get them hot ;), or when the fluid yellows visibly.

5+ years, changed once.

Pete
 

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When the brakes don't work if you get them hot ;), or when the fluid yellows visibly.

5+ years, changed once.

Pete
Ta Pete,mate do you have braided lines,overkill ay,I am going to put sonic springs in the front and when I get some carbon credits I will do the rear and to be honest that is all the money I am going to be throwing at this lovely but budget bike.:yesnod:
 

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I changed my brake fluid when I changed the pads and at the same time put on ss brake lines. Huge improvement. The bike was 4 years old at the time.
 

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+1 on Iridium plugs :thumbup: got mine from the States $9.25 AUD ea see Motorcycle Parts, Discount Motorcycle Tires, Motorcycle Gear, & Motorcycle Accessories | Jake Wilson not worth the postage though unless you combine as part of a bigger order.

The plastic fairing fasteners are Push Rivets,got mine from SuperCheap on the "Champion" fasterner rack, Repco another source , come in a pack of 3 @ approx $6 pack.
I've searched all the local suppliers (supercheap, repco etc) as mentioned for these (Push Rivets), and none of them new what Iwas talking about.
After paying $2 from the local Stealer.
I ended up getting some spares from the states (see link), IIRC cost me $4.99usd for 10.
push rivets | dirt bike, atv parts and accessories | Search Results | Rocky Mountain ATV/MC

Postage is steep (but quick - 5 days), but I was ordring other stuff so threw the rivets in for good measure
 

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Ta Pete,mate do you have braided lines,overkill ay,I am going to put sonic springs in the front and when I get some carbon credits I will do the rear and to be honest that is all the money I am going to be throwing at this lovely but budget bike.:yesnod:
No, I don't have any problems with the stock brakes. Just use "someone elses" pads and they improve quite a bit. Just about any pad other than the Suzuki ones seem to have more bite.

The front springs will help more than brake lines, when you don't feel like you are going to smack your head into the tarmac every time you squeeze the brakes they work a lot better ;)

Pete
 

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Threads like this annoy the shite out of me for now I think I should do plugs 24000k and the manwell says replace coolant every two years so I'm 12 months overdue on that :yikes:.I will go with the plugs that have a half life of a million years,hydraulic fluids are hygroscopic how often do you do brake fluid ?riding my wee is stress relief.:headbang::biggrinjester:
When you change the engine coolant don't use tap water get deminelrized and concentrated coolant . Simple tap water can have a lot of things in it that you may not want in the cooling sytem remember there are rubber hoses etc in the cooling system .
When coolant is changed reward yourself
 

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Discussion Starter #20
No need to remove radiator. Remove bottom bolt RHS and swing radiator forward, put a tie or something on it to hold it there, remove plug from LHS easy peasy. BTW radiator has 2 bolts on RHS and slides off a pin on the LHS.
Rowbust Thanks.. Your reply was what i was after. We know about iridium this and iridium that but your installation description is what i finally did after a lot of f###ing around. The manual does direct you to swing the radiator from the top and has 2 bolts one on either side. NO it has only one top bolt Suzi!
Also says change plugs at 7500ks but i had no problemo going to 30000.

RHS is described as seated not as looking at the bike from the front where it becomes the LHS.
 
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