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Seems like 7500 miles is not very many miles on a set of plugs. My Ford F-150 sez inspect at 100000 miles. Think I'm going to ignore that service interval. Also it looks like the antifreeze is blue which means suzuki is using it's "super long life antifreeze" so won't have to worry about changing that for 4 yrs....
 

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Hell no the plugs do not need changed.
 

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It's nuts. Regular plugs are good for at least 20,000 miles and Iridium plugs are good for 50,000-100,000 miles
 

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They need to give the dealers something back for the 7500 miles service intervals.
That's about it! The improvements in oil and metals in the past thirty or so years more than compensates for the increased power outputs. To suggest that synthetic or blended oil need changing that often is nought more than marketing blurb.

Saying that, I'd probably change it around then for the minimal cost it is, but NFW I'd be changing iridium plugs that often - especially if I was stupid enough to pay dealer prices for them.
 

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It's nuts. Regular plugs are good for at least 20,000 miles and Iridium plugs are good for 50,000-100,000 miles
Before reading that thread I was looking of the internet site of NGK to find the replacement spark plugs (LMAR8BI-9) for my new V-Strom...Have been surprise that we can not find those yet on the NGK internet site : NGK Spark Plugs USA

After reading the quote thread and others, I change my mind and I will not change my spark plugs at 24000 KM. I will probably wait at least at 48 000K before thinking replacing them... by that time the replacement spark plugs would probably be updated on the NGK internet site.
 

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The construction of the LMAR8BI-9 looks very similar to the IX series; looks like the LMAR8BI-9 has a 0.6 mm center electrode. NGK states the expected life of the IX plug to be the same as standard nickel-plated, copper core plugs. I suspect the reduced change interval came from California. Plus, if you figure a motorcycle plug fires four times as much as a auto engine, you arrive at 7,500 miles. The point is that after 7,500 miles, the performance benefit of the smaller electrode is gone because the sharp edge is ablated. You are left with the equivalent of a standard electrode configuration for the balance of time that you use it, and are more likely to misfire especially at a lean idle or high BMEPs. In any event, it appears that the DL's ignition system is robust and can tolerate extended plug change intervals. I will probably use an IX plug instead of the factory spec'd one when it's time to change- they are a bit cheaper.



From NGK:


"Iridium IX


Since IX plugs are designed to improve ignition performance and fuel economy they use ultra-fine electrodes, but you can drive the same distance using them as you can with Nickel type plugs.
Note: These distance between changes figures are a rough guide and the actual distance may be shorter depending on how your vehicle is used, and the ignition system."

PLUG STUDIO / NGK
 

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I did ride my Yamaha R1 12 years without to change any sparkplug (the old fashion one) and everything was find..

So i am nor worry about that issue.
 

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I have stated I change plugs at extended intervals in other threads, 20,000 for standard variety and 50,000 miles or more for iridiums.

However, I failed to add, I typically pull the first set from a new bike on time. I do this to gauge the fueling efficiency of the bike by inspecting the plug insulator color. Once I am confident they look like they are burning well, I either put the original plugs back in if they are easy to change or the bike comes from the factory with iridium to begin with. If the plugs are hard to replace, I swap to iridiums at the first check and go to longer intervals.

Modern efi will fire anything these days. Iridium just lasts longer. However, I have pulled plugs from very lean running machines to find small pieces of insulator missing. This can happen with an engine that is getting coolant in the cylinder also.

So, be certain your bike is healthy before running such long intervals.
 

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Aside from routine maintenance...

It would end up being around every 3-4 years for me in Wisconsin, but what about this?

At roughly 15,000 mile intervals:

1. Valve Inspection/Adjustment
2. Coolant Swap
3. Brake/Clutch Fluid Swap
3. New Air Filter
4. New Plugs

From what I've read, one could probably do the valves every other interval after the first.
 

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It would end up being around every 3-4 years for me in Wisconsin, but what about this?

At roughly 15,000 mile intervals:

1. Valve Inspection/Adjustment
2. Coolant Swap
3. Brake/Clutch Fluid Swap
3. New Air Filter
4. New Plugs

From what I've read, one could probably do the valves every other interval after the first.
That looks about like my schedule, except with 20K intervals. Maybe not the hydraulic fluids so much.
 

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When I had my Wee ABS, I put Speed Bleeders on it.
Brake flush was a 15 min,one man job front and rear.
Very easy, unlike my CBF with linked brakes.:yikes:
 

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I agree, and with the Kelly2012 post. I am changing the plugs before the dealer does the TBS synchronization. This is an easy way check on a possibly misfiring plug. The OEM shop manual is clear there is no misfire logging, as on modern cars with OBD2 diagnostics.. I already have the plugs - $32CDN.

Any racer will tell you - "want instant HP gain?..replace the plugs"
 

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I agree, and with the Kelly2012 post. I am changing the plugs before the dealer does the TBS synchronization. This is an easy way check on a possibly misfiring plug. The OEM shop manual is clear there is no misfire logging, as on modern cars with OBD2 diagnostics.. I already have the plugs - $32CDN.

Any racer will tell you - "want instant HP gain?..replace the plugs"
Hi John, where did you buy the plugs? Are they the iridium ones? Is that price for 4 of them or a piece?
Thanks,
Peter
 

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For what it's worth, if I see mine looking kinda worn after 20 to 30 tho, I change em. I remember reading about some left in a Benz for 100000 and the dissimilar metals welded themselves together. That could be a fable but still...
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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Great info here, I'm doing my 7500 service now and am trying to pull the plugs to inspect, not replace. Anyone know the torque spec for when I put them back in? I've seen 8 ft lbs, sound right?

Also, any tricks to getting to the one behind the radiator? I tried loosening the top bolts as well but my hands barely fit behind it. I may remove the top bolts but is looks like the radiator hose is limiting how far I can pull it out.

Thanks for the help, TRM in SA
 

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11Nm on the DL1000; I changed mine last weekend. 11Nm is apparently 8.1 ft.lbs according to Google.

I took out the Iridiums that were fitted (22k mile bike when purchased a couple of weeks ago) and replaced them with the proper twin-electrode plugs.

My TL-1000R (which I had for almost seven years) ran like a bag o' shit with Iridiums hence changing them straight away on the DL.
 

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11Nm on the DL1000; I changed mine last weekend. 11Nm is apparently 8.1 ft.lbs according to Google.

I took out the Iridiums that were fitted (22k mile bike when purchased a couple of weeks ago) and replaced them with the proper twin-electrode plugs.

My TL-1000R (which I had for almost seven years) ran like a bag o' shit with Iridiums hence changing them straight away on the DL.
TLR, interesting point on the twin-eletrode plugs, do you remember the part number you used?

Also, am I missing anything about accessing the second plug on the front cylinder behind the radiator?

Thanks, TRM
 
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