Source for Switched Power

2453 Views 13 Replies 7 Participants Last post by richlandrick, 3 mo ago

Mo Mentum

Discussion Starter · 3 mo ago

I found a handy source for switched power to run my fuse box and, thus, my accessories. I also often see questions about where to source switched power. So I thought it would offer my solution. If anyone sees a problem, please respond – for my solution may certainly not be the best. But it has worked so far.

I had planned to tap into a running light for switched power and, when searching for a source, I found a blank-end connector with a cap near the rear of the bike (2012 V-Strom 650 aka “L2”). After a poster mentioned the diagnostic port for an OBDII connector, I realized that is what I found. Since I suspect other versions of the V-Strom have the same port, this idea may also work for you.

I found this connector laying loose behind the rear, left -side fairing. After testing, it has a switched power line that seems like a good candidate to run a relay that then powers a fuse box for accessories. The switched power line is the red with white strip line (not the white with a red stripe).

I didn’t want to cut a line to tap into, so I drilled a small hole through the end cap to line up with the switched power line, inserted a narrow blade connector through the cap, sealed it and put the cap back on. See the picture below.

This process kept the diagnostic port in service and allowed me to avoid cutting any line. I hope this explanation helps others. And if I totally messed something up, please let me know. At least, it works so far!

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This is the inside of the connector. (Sorry for the bad pic.)

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StretchNM

· #2 · 3 mo ago

Even after reading on the internet and watching Youtube videos, I still don;t understand relays. But I save the link to threads like this because at some point I will want to add relays or fuse blocks in the future. Thanks. Anything else you can add, in text or photos, is a help to me.

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DustyBoots

· #3 · 3 mo ago

StretchNM said:
Even after reading on the internet and watching Youtube videos, I still don;t understand relays. But I save the link to threads like this because at some point I will want to add relays or fuse blocks in the future. Thanks. Anything else you can add, in text or photos, is a help to me.

This might help
Substitute aux fuse block for 'lights'. 'Trigger Source' is a keyed hot wire

Dusty

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V-Tom

· #4 · 3 mo ago

@Mo Mentum

really bad idea.

As I understand how the diagnostic port works you are pretty much directly connecting to the bike's ECU (computer.) Not a good idea.

Better to reach out to "Eastern Beaver" and get one of their plug and play kits for your 2012 DL650. Or at least get the cable that plugs into the rear running light wire.

..Tom

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Mo Mentum

Discussion Starter · #5 · 3 mo ago

Actually, I don't think I am connecting to the ECU. Instead, I am pulling power from the hot lead in the ECU connection port. No other wires or connection are involved. But your point is well taken. That's why I asked. Greater minds than I are on this forum, so I appreciate the concern.

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Mo Mentum

Discussion Starter · #6 · 3 mo ago

StretchNM said:
I still don;t understand relays.

It took me a long time to figure out relays. They are quite simple - if you get the process figured out. The "Trigger Source" that DustyBoots described is the most important point. Once you figure that part out, the rest is pretty simple.

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StretchNM

· #7 · 3 mo ago

My main concern is I don't want to "splice" into any wiring and possibly create a problem in the future. I think I understand your concept - provide a block where other accessories can be installed (is that right?) and that's what I'd like to do, but powering it from one plug-in source without affecting any other wires. And I see where you're going there with the diagnostic port. You're leaving it alone but just drawing from its power source. Yet, what happens if that power source is somehow affected. Won't it affect your diagnostic port maybe at a time when you need it?

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Mo Mentum

Discussion Starter · #8 · 3 mo ago

StretchNM said:
what happens if that power source is somehow affected

Your concern is well placed. However, the fuse box is only drawing enough power to make the relay work. The amount of power being drawn is low (not exactly sure how much). I can only suspect a problem to occur if there is some sort of overdraw of power (could melt the wire?) or a surge going back into the wire. But I have never found any info about a relay pulling too much power from or sending back a surge into the "trigger source" . The purpose of the "trigger source" is to make a separate connection between the main power lines, i.e., the "trigger source" has no connection to the main power source inside the relay. Further, the accessories in the fuse box are all protected by their own fuse.

Thinking this past the diagnostic plug and into the bike's electrical system, I am at a loss as to what the 12v supply could connect to beyond just getting power from the bike's electric system. If it runs through a specific component that could somehow fail, then maybe. If anyone has more ideas about that possibility, please share. I am no expert, and am always looking to learn what I don't know (which keeps me quite busy!). I just want to share this as a rather easy source for switched power that does not require a splice.

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Mo Mentum

Discussion Starter · #9 · 3 mo ago

Here is a close up pic of the fuse box. At this time it is just providing power to added lights and a louder horn. (The negative side of the fuse box is connected to the bike's frame.) Each of the accessories (lights and horn) is powered thru its own fused connection inside the fuse box. The trigger source is the connection to the diagnostic port described above. When power comes from the trigger source ( when you turn on the bike), that causes an internal connection inside the relay to send power to the fuse box. I hope this helps.

This is the fuse box on Amazon: "6 Way 12V Fuse Block Fuse Box, 6 Circuit Car Ato/Atc Fuse Block Waterproof with LED Indicator & 20Pcs Fuse & Damp-Proof Cover for 12V/24V Automotive Truck Boat Marine Bus RV Van Vehicle" - $14.96.

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richlandrick

· #10 · 3 mo ago

Think about using the horn instead. On your bike, there is also a heated grip connector behind teh upper left-hand side of the radiator and an auxiliary power port connector behind the tank side panel on the right side of the bike.

But tapping into the horn is easiest.

Collecting Reference Info - Switched Power Sources for...

I'm going to create a thread detailing teh switched power sources available on the various models. Please contribute photos showing the location of switched power sources you may have used or are already tucked away in some corner of Stromtrooper. Please include model, year, description of the...

www.stromtrooper.com

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Syz

· #11 · 3 mo ago

Rear license plate light is a better option. You will need to tap or splice into it.

Explanation.
I was recently wiring up a side case light kit from AdMoreLighting which also requires a switched power source. I was going to get the switched power from the "cigarette lighter" under my seat (DL1050) during my testing I learned that this source is only switched with the bike ignition in the ON position. I wanted the light to be operable even when the bike is off but the ignition in the Parking position. This is how the license plate light works. This allow for all lights, running, and turn signals flashing as hazards on the size of the road if needed. Taping the aditional side case lights into this makes them work as well with ignition is parking mode.

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David T.

· #12 · 3 mo ago

As I have seen mentioned before. The plug for heated grips is an option. I did finally find mine behind the radiator last weekend.

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Mo Mentum

Discussion Starter · #13 · 3 mo ago

richlandrick said:
But tapping into the horn is easiest.

I am intrigued by this option. But isn't power to the horn only there when you are pressing the horn button, i.e., activating the horn?

richlandrick said:
auxiliary power port connector behind the tank side panel on the right side of the bike.

I was not aware of this port. After looking at the thread you posted "Collecting Reference Info . . ." I was dismayed the thread seemed to have petered out. That would have been (would still be) a good thread to include all of the various options and ideas. I am new to the vstrom family, so I am learning a lot of new things about the bike.

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richlandrick

· #14 · 3 mo ago

Mo Mentum said:
I am intrigued by this option. But isn't power to the horn only there when you are pressing the horn button, i.e., activating the horn?

I always thought so until it was pointed out to me that power is there in one of the wires when the key is turned. But actually, the circuit is completed on the ground side of teh horn when the button is pushed.

After unplugging the horn determine which wire has power to it. Tap into that one. Don't forget to plug the horn back in.

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