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I Bought an 07, DL-1000, w/ 1051, Original Miles on it,...It, was "locked-in-a-warehouse", since 2008, (tied-up-in-Legal-battles ), I took possession, 9-19-11. I pulled the tank & upturned, over a 5-gal bucket. Added, half-a-gal, of fresh 91, & upturned again. I 'fashioned-a-funnel' & poured "SeaFoam", in to the Fuel Line, let it sit x5 days,...(hoping the SeaFoam-Solvent, would work it's way to the "Inj-Pump",..& clean-Her-up,... Today, I put 2.25 gallons of 91 oct, w/ x3 ounces of SeaFoam solution in the tank,.. I have x2 bars on my fuel gauge,..put Jumper-cables, to my 800 amp CUMMINGS-Rig, batteries, (motor-off), & cranked the STARTER,... X6 times, 4 15-seconds,... NOTHING, (she's not even trying,...).
I pulled a plug, checked spark,... plug was OEM,... Clean,...no wht, tan or blk "cauliflower", soot or carbon-deposits. good-spark, light smell of gas,....
I would have expected it to be WET, w/ gas.
I would have expected Raw-GAS, blowing, out the pipes, as much as I cranked-Her,... How do we check, if "WE R GETTING GAS THROUGH INJ PUMP TO THE CYLs,..? My Brother says , "giv her a shot of either,." I'm resisting,...
new battery, as of Sun 9-24-11,... Guys: I appreciate your COUNSEL & advise,... thks, Steven, Sidecooper07DL1k, 714-222-2252. :headbang:
 

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hard to say

Assuming it was running OK when it was put away (not always a safe assumption), seems like you need to work down through the fuel system (pump output, throttle bodies seated in boots, injectors not plugged) and do a throttle position sensor (TPS) check. All these diagnostics are available here or on other Strom boards, so do a search. Just as a backup, I'd change the plugs even though they look OK, as looks can be deceiving. I'd also make sure that nothing made a nest in the intake (air box) or exhaust while it was in storage. If these checks don't get it running, time to either sell it (hopefully you got a deal when you bought it) or take it to a dealer (expensive, and mixed results, depending on whether they have a knowledgeable tech on staff). Generally these are reliable beasts, but there are quite a few ways they can quit running (haven't touched on any internal mechanical issues, for example) and "quit running" is the number one reason bikes get put away, to be fixed later.
 

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So the plugs were not wet with gas? Did you check and make sure you hooked up the fuel pump wires when you re-installed the gas tank? I got from your post that you removed the tank... I was wondering if all the wires and hoses are hooked back up again...

Richard
 

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Mine was a left over

I did what you did plus run the fuel pump into a cup

It was full of water etc.

Pull fuel line from throttle bodies let her piss into a cup.

Get NEW PLUGS

Mine looked ok but new Iridiums and she fired right up

She should show gauges cycle up and down when key is turned. You should hear the fuel pump build pressure then try to start her.

Ether IS a good test as you will know if ignition is firing
 

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When I removed my tank, I had the hose disconected from the fuel pump. Being curious and somewhat stupid, I turned the ignition on and the pump also turned on and spewed a nice stream :yesnod:...... Maybe you could do this as well, but stand back. Your pump may turn on but could be clogged ???
 

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Discussion Starter #6
SOS: Follow-Up,.. Issues,.........

Dear FRIENDS: Thank You all so much for your 'Ideas' & COUNSEL,....!:yesnod:
I've pulled THE TANK, at least 10 times,..... Work w/ GOOD-LIGHT,.. so I check & re-check, "no-loose-ends",.. fuel-line, (got the "O" ring-thing figured out 4 sure, per the other end as instructed,... elec connect, Ca. Smog Stuff,...x4 total,...
I pulled the Air-Box,.. Pulled the Injectors & manifold, (x2 rt angles, to the OTHER, Fuel-Quick-Connector),... soaked, both injectors in clean 91 oct-gas, for 2 days. blew them dry w/ air nozzle,...
NOTE: How the heck do u guys get the forward "air-box", 'Air-Duct' clamp off,..? I bought a 12" - #2 Phillips,.... NOW it's CAKE,...But, I didn't have one,:green_lol:
ALSO, i HAD REAL DIFFICULTY GETTING THE 'REAR-Cylinder' Injector Bracket: Phillips-Screws, out,... :furious: I bought; Stainless, Allen Screws to go back in w/ a 'touch' of Anti-Seize, (into the Aluminum Throttle Body ).
Put the CLEAN-Inj's, back in,...Ca. Smog Valve Stuff, Tank, Jumper-Cables,
Cranked Her Hard,...Nothing,...... Gave Her a Shot of EITHER,...Fired rt up, 4, x2 SECONDS,...
pulled THE FORWARD PLUG, slightly, white & ashy,..(from the Either),..
NO-GAS,...... wet or smell,... @ all,...:thumbdown:
........... GUYS, when u turn the key,... even w/ my ear on the tank,..I DON'T HEAR ANY: 'whine',.... :headbang:
I will definitely, EXPLORE, the: "Short-Piece-of-hose-on-the-TANK/Piss-in-a-BUCKET" exercise,... Maybe my Fuel-Pump,.. is stuck or DEAD,...!
How NOISY, R they,...
My, 2003 Gixxer, was loud & distinct,... NO-Mistaken It,... on or off,...
.............................................................
I'm also getting an: ( F-1 ), readout on the gauges/console,

please, advise,.......

'WE' r real close,...

'She', fired on Either,... (so, it's NOT electrical),...
I've been LEERY, of the LACK-of-Fuel-Pump,... NOISE,..from the start,...

Thank U all for your guidance,.. I need to get 'Her' out of my Brothers Garage,
ASAP,..

Sidecooper07DL1k,...... 714-222-2252. :mrgreen:12:55am Thur 10-6-11.
 

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The fuel pump is noisy and pumps for 3-4 seconds, as the gauges swing and set, after turning the key on.

Is the red "Kill" switch on the right handlebar control in the "Run" position? Blown fuse?

Sounds like a service manual would come in handy re: FI code.
Quote:
"In User Mode, which is the normal running mode, if an FI error occurs you will see the "FI" letters displayed in the odometer readout area. If the FI is alternated every 2 seconds with an odometer readout & the Red FI lamp on the dash is on solid, the bike will start and run in fail-safe mode. If the odometer readout is FI & the Red FI light lamp is blinking, the bike will not start.

Dealer Mode: An FI error will be memorized in the ECU when an error is present. This error will stay in the ECU as long as power is not removed from (battery disconnected or ECU unplugged) the ECU and the error has not been cleared. It should be noted, that if an FI error is intermittent, the error code should be checked before the bike is turned off. Carry a spare key & a jumper so the seat can be removed and Dealer Mode entered while bike is still running. As soon as a error is cleared it is removed from ECU memory.

The Dealer Mode connector is located under the left rear fairing next to the ECU. Of the 2 Strom diagnostic connectors, the smaller one with a soft rubber cover is the dealer mode plug. The White/Red & Black/White wires are the ones you will jumper to enable dealer mode. In the 6 pin plug they are the ones on the end. Use a paper clip, a piece of wire or anything that is conductive that will fit.

Once the jumper is in place dealer mode is entered. The FI error code(s) will be displayed in the odometer readout area of the LCD panel when the ignition is on, engine running or not. If more than one error is in place it will change every 2 seconds to display all codes. -C00 is the normal readout. The jumper can be inserted with ignition on or off."

-C00 No error
C11 Camshaft Position Sensor (CMPS) - 1000 Only
C12 Crankshaft Position Sensor (CKPS)
C13 Intake Air Pressure Sensor (IAPS)
C14 Throttle Position Sensor
C15 Engine Coolant Temp. Sensor (ECTS)
C17 Intake Air Pressure Sensor (IAPS) - 07 & Up 650 Only
C21 Intake Air Temp. Sensor (IATS)
C22 Atmospheric Pressure Sensor (APS) - 1000 Only
C23 Tip Over Sensor (TOS)
C24 Ignition Signal #1 (Front Coil)
C25 Ignition Signal #2 (Rear Coil)
C28 Secondary Throttle Valve Actuator (STVA)
C29 Secondary Throttle Position Sensor (STPS)
C31 Gear Position Sensor (GPS)
C32 Injector Signal #1 ( Front)
C33 Injector Signal #2 (Rear)
C40 ISC Valve - 07 & Up 650 Only
C41 Fuel Pump Control System (Fuel Pump Relay)
C42 Ignition Switch Signal (Anti-Theft)
C44 Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S)
C49 PAIR Control Solenoid Valve
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
SOS: Follow-Up,.. Issues,......... Con't,...

Hi Guys,..
I'm very thankful for this SITE & U Friends,............
I still don't have a SHOP-Manual,...
..."Feeling-my-way-Along",...

Ran-through, my check-list:

Re-checked: "Throttle: RUN-Position, SWITCH",... GO/Run,.....

disconnected,...'forward', quick-disconnect @ "manifold-hard-line",
put over a bucket,... turned-key: NOTHING,

Pulled, other: Quick-Disconnect, off of tank,....
slid an 'other' piece of FUEL-LINE( to bucket), on & Turned-the-Key,... NOTHING,..!
..........................................................................................

Suzuki, 2007, DL-1000, V-Strom,…(1,083, Orig Miles),

last operated,.. 10-3-2008,

JUMPED STRAIGHT TO THE Fuel-PUMP,…(yellow/red & red/yellow,…blk/wht to GROUND )
"No-Life",.. No Sound,… NOTHING,…..

(TRIED: all x3 permutations,.. just, to B sure,…)

carefully, ' in-sized' the INSULATORS, where the wires are soldered, to the pump/conductors:

JUMPED: direct, from the battery,... switched/leads,... 3 times,...

.............slight, spark @ contact: but NOTHING,... DEAD !
........................................................................................


Distinct- 'Relay' click,.. by battery, aft, x2 relays,..(rider position) rt side, (throttle-side),

Photos attached: x2

Part Number: 15100-06 G 10
UC-T 30 SU 15
7219

ANY-BODY: have one,…4 SALE,.?
PLEASE, call me direct,
ASAP,……..

714-222-2252,….

Thanks,
" Fellow-Stormers "

(Next Items: "Re-Paint", tires, trunk,..).

x2 photos attached,.........

Thanks, Thur 10-6-11 @ 22:20 hrs.
scs,
 

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did u push start? check clutch switch & disassemble the starter switch. Sometimes the switch can get dirty inside or rusted.
 

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You'll know instantly when you turn the key (kill switch on) if the fuel pump is working. If there's no noise from the fuel pump, it's not working.
 

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The OP has yet to claim that he disconnected the hose from the fuel pump and allowed fuel to shoot out all over [like Andreas did accidentally!] - thus confirming that the fuel pump is sending fuel.

Curious minds wish to know....
 

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.. .. .... ... .. ... .

Does anyone else find it very difficult to read the OP's posts? I feel like he is sending us a telegram or something.
 

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Does anyone else find it very difficult to read the OP's posts? I feel like he is sending us a telegram or something.
Yes, I too think there's a problem with the way he expresses himself.
I suspect the problem is related to the fact he hasn't caught on to the fact his fuel pump isn't running.

The tone of these posts remind me of the scam emails people get that claim someone needs to move huge amounts of money out of their country (via the recipient's bank account of course).
We'll know where we stand if this particular strom appears in the for sale section after the problem has been "established" as a bad fuel pump and the OP's post count is adequate.
 

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I will answer the easy question...How do you remove the forward Throttle Body boot?

YOU DON'T. no need to.

Just warm the rubber boot up a little with a hair dryer if cold, compress it with your hand, then push it down through the hole while lifting the air box up. Next verify clamp on front TB boot is tight and oriented correctly....yes the last schmuck may have installed it wrong. To reassemble, squeeze and let it go back into air box, popping into place. Be sure the groove in boot captures the air box plastic correctly or you will suck dirt in at the sealing point.

Much better and easier way.
 

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Yes, I too think there's a problem with the way he expresses himself.
I suspect the problem is related to the fact he hasn't caught on to the fact his fuel pump isn't running.

The tone of these posts remind me of the scam emails people get that claim someone needs to move huge amounts of money out of their country (via the recipient's bank account of course).
We'll know where we stand if this particular strom appears in the for sale section after the problem has been "established" as a bad fuel pump and the OP's post count is adequate.

My thoughts exactly.

The OVER use of CAPS, ....periods..., (((brackets))) AND "quotation marks".....and overly FRIENDLY remarks.... MAKES for (great) difficulty IN following..... (what HE is TRYING to SAY), and puts into QUESTION.... (his) "true" MOTIVES. I too... thought (I) was READING one (1) of those... OFF shore (spam) EMAILS offering (me) large AMOUNTS... of cash.

edit.... AND (I) did NOT mention... ALL-the-UNNECESSARY-hyphens... AND/forward/SLASHES/!!

If you can't hear the fuel pump, it's not working. Period. No point in checking anything else.
 

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Does anyone else find it very difficult to read the OP's posts?
Yes. No offense toward the thread originator intended, but attempts at "geeky web speak" stopped being "clever" in the early 90s. Now it's just extremely annoying.

James
 

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The Op is from Santa Ana

Spanish is the predominant language there. No , I am serious. If that is the case I would expect him to type this way.
My wife is from Chula Vista, Ca. Not for nothing is it called North Tijuana.
 

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OEM 20% off sale = good buy on your pump

I got a email about 20% off all OEM parts = BUT== I don't remember who the vendor was = Bet you could google 20% off OEM parts and it would come up.
That may be your best shot at a fuel pump.
 
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