[Solarguy]

If you squeeze the clutch lever, does the cable move down at the clutch end? If no, cable is broken.

Problem just started?

I think the SV 650 is an almost identical setup, and this guy walks you through the whole adjustment procedure very nicely:

Let us know what you figure out.

We're rooting for you!

 

[BackPacker]

The DL650 clutch is cable operated, while the DL1000 clutch is hydraulic. World of difference. If you need help with a DL650 clutch, why post it in a DL1000 subforum?

Mods, any chance you can move this? Might get better responses that way.

 

[Brockie]

It seems more likely that your clutch is not dis-engaging, i.e. you pull the clutch lever and nothing happens.
As Solarguy says, pull the clutch lever while watching the actuator.

Regarding the video above the V-Strom does not required disconnection of the gear lever to adjust the clutch.

Edit: Sorry but I did not pick up on which model and originally posted the Gen 1 data.
The 2nd Gen DL650 has a very different clutch system adjustment which requires removal of the clutch cover.

However, check the cable first. It is far more likely to be the cause.

 

[Gert]

The clutch actuation setup on the L2 (2012) Glee is different to that of the 1st gen Wee.
As queried in #2 above, does the clutch lever move the clutch activating arm? Then a question has the two adjusters on the clutch cable been maxed out or was the actiction arm repositioned / adjusted?
Have a look at the thread for adjustment tips Clutch slipping

 

[scritch]

I broke two clutch cables on my Honda 350, and two more on my Triumph Sprint ST. Consequently, I always carry a spare cable on my 'Strom.

 

[wump]

I originally incorrectly posted this in the DL1000 forum. Thanks for moving it, mods.

It seems more likely that your clutch is not dis-engaging,

Correct: I pull the lever and nothing happens.

I can only start the bike in neutral. The starter interlock is on for all gears.

The clutch lever position sensor is working correctly per an ohmeter.

The clutch cable is adjusted to leave about 3-4mm (1/8") of free play in the handlebar lever when measuring the gap near the hinge. Measured at the far end of the lever it's a half inch. The cable adjustments are not at max.

If I push the bike while pulling the lever, I am able to roll the bike, though not as easily as when it's in neutral.

If I leave the bike alone for a few weeks this problem goes away once, only to reappear after I've gone for a ride. The bike is currently a garage queen.

 

[wump]

I've gone through this thread in full: Clutch lever not working

On the transmission end, the clutch shaft (the one with teeth and lines notched into it) is correctly lined up with the hole in the lower clutch cable attachment.
i.e. it looks like this Clutch slipping

 

[Brockie]

That seems absolutely normal. In neutral easy to push - in gear with the clutch pulled in quite difficult to push.
The reason is cold oil and the drag between the steel and fiber plates.

V-Stroms have a reputation for a draggy clutch system when cold, and usually a clunk when first engaging first gear.
Is this your issue?

If this is the issue, it is greater with some engine oils compared to others and goes away once the oil is hot.

 

[Brockie]

I've gone through this thread in full: Clutch lever not working

On the transmission end, the clutch shaft (the one with teeth and lines notched into it) is correctly lined up with the hole in the lower clutch cable attachment.
i.e. it looks like this Clutch slipping

That is the clutch actuator lever and works best as shown, with the lever arm at 90 degrees to the cable pull.
p.s. we both posted at the same time.

 

[Brockie]

Your clutch lever/cable adjustment, as explained above is correct.
When you pull the lever does the actuator arm work correctly for a good pull?

 

[wump]

That seems absolutely normal. In neutral easy to push - in gear with the clutch pulled in quite difficult to push.
The reason is cold oil and the drag between the steel and fiber plates.

V-Stroms have a reputation for a draggy clutch system when cold, and usually a clunk when first engaging first gear.
Is this your issue?

If this is the issue, it is greater with some engine oils compared to others and goes away once the oil is hot.

I wish that were the issue, because that seems much less baffling!

I've spent more time with it this evening. My kickstand position sensor (🙄) is having issues, thus the inopportune fuel pump deactivation.

Simultaneously, my clutch cable is sticking as if there's gunk in it, or as if the recoil spring at the bottom is not strong enough.

 

[wump]

Your clutch lever/cable adjustment, as explained above is correct.
When you pull the lever does the actuator arm work correctly for a good pull?

Yes, when I pull the lever I am able to disengage the clutch as observed via lever movement at the transmission end of the cable.

In my earlier post I said "nothing happens"--that was because of the fuel pump interlock on the kickstand being funky.

The clutch is also likely being worn prematurely because the handlebar lever can't return to a "free play" state without human assistance.


I'm fairly confident I understand what's happening now. So I'm going to update the post to say "solved."

 

[Brockie]

I wish that were the issue, because that seems much less baffling!

I've spent more time with it this evening. My kickstand position sensor (🙄) is having issues, thus the inopportune fuel pump deactivation.

Simultaneously, my clutch cable is sticking as if there's gunk in it, or as if the recoil spring at the bottom is not strong enough.

Check the cable to ensure that it has not become kinked somewhere along its length.
Even better, to ensure that the cable is not jamming, remove the bottom nipple at the crankcase lever and work the clutch lever. It should be free, smooth, and without binding.
Do not oil the cable. Just grease the nipples at both ends. The cable does not need lube.

 

[Brockie]

Yes, when I pull the lever I am able to disengage the clutch as observed via lever movement at the transmission end of the cable.

In my earlier post I said "nothing happens"--that was because of the fuel pump interlock on the kickstand being funky.

The clutch is also likely being worn prematurely because the handlebar lever can't return to a "free play" state without human assistance.


I'm fairly confident I understand what's happening now. So I'm going to update the post to say "solved."

Sorry but "clutch worn prematurely" and "solved" in the same post?
The clutch and cable should work perfectly no matter where the bars are turned.
Is it possible that the clutch cable was incorrectly fitted? Have you ever replaced the cable or removed the handle bars?

Honestly, this does sound like an easy fix after some maintenance or repair to the bike.

 

[wump]

Honestly, this does sound like an easy fix after some maintenance or repair to the bike.

Yeah, it'll be easy.

The clutch and cable should work perfectly no matter where the bars are turned.

Something is making the cable stick. Not sure what. The ends of the cable appear fine. I'll lube the ends tomorrow but a new clutch cable seems likely.

Sorry but "clutch worn prematurely" and "solved" in the same post?

"Solved" only in that I understand the problem, not that I've solved it. I don't want to drag others into this thread.

Is it possible that the clutch cable was incorrectly fitted? Have you ever replaced the cable or removed the handle bars?

I'm the original owner and I've never touched either.

 

[wump]

Check the cable to ensure that it has not become kinked somewhere along its length.
Even better, to ensure that the cable is not jamming, remove the bottom nipple at the crankcase lever and work the clutch lever. It should be free, smooth, and without binding.
Do not oil the cable. Just grease the nipples at both ends. The cable does not need lube.

It's definitely not free, smooth, and without binding.

Thanks very much for your time, Brockie and others