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Even my local Suzuki technicians can't tell the difference.

My 2014 has a PCFC fitted and when my bike had the recall done for the wires rubbing on the fuel tank they got those plugs mixed up.

When I got the bike back my fuel consumption went through the roof and the bike ran like crap when building to the higher RPM's until I pulled the tank to find their stuff up.
 

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Even my local Suzuki technicians can't tell the difference.



My 2014 has a PCFC fitted and when my bike had the recall done for the wires rubbing on the fuel tank they got those plugs mixed up.



When I got the bike back my fuel consumption went through the roof and the bike ran like crap when building to the higher RPM's until I pulled the tank to find their stuff up.
Thanks, that makes me feel a bit less dumb. I got to the correct sensor tonight and it was easy-peasy to adjust. I got a couple of pictures that I think will need helpful for the next person doing this that I'll upload tomorrow.

Vinnie

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Here are a couple of pics that hopefully will help the next person keep from doing what I did: adjust the wrong sensor!

To repeat, this on the left side of the engine. The top photo is from the rear, looking over the rear cylinder valve cover. I've put a box around the sensor and the locking screw which has my torx socket in it. You can see clearly that this sensor is the one that has the connector in about the 4 o'clock position. I took this photo with the tank elevated on its bracket.

The bottom photo is from the side of the bike. The important point here is that I've inserted the extension with the torx bit BETWEEN the two fuel pipes. You can see that this is just to the left of where the single fuel pipe coming from the tank divides to feed each throttle body. To find the locking screw for the correct sensor, shine a light between the two pipes. You'll see the torx screw in there. As others have said, you can reach it by just elevating the tank. There's a lot of stuff in there to work the torx through as you go in from the side, but it's pretty easy to reach under the back of the tank and rotate the sensor.

(If you look OVER the top fuel pipe, you'll also see a torx locking screw. This the one I found first. It's the STP sensor, not the TPS sensor. Messing with that as I did will screw up your secondary throttle plate position and not adjust the throttle position, duh.)

Also, I don't recall anyone mentioning this -- it takes a second for the hyphen on the dash to update once you've moved the sensor. So, move the senor a teeny-tiny bit (mine needed to go CCW), wait a second, look at the dash, then move it again, wait, again, etc. I moved the hyphen to the upper position and then back to the lower position and then put it in between. There was not much rotation between those two spots, so the sweet spot you want to hit is pretty precise.

I put about 10 miles on the bike today. The throttle was reasonably smooth before, just a tad rough right at the beginning of giving it throttle. Now, it's pretty darn smooth. So, for me, it was worth the time.

Vinnie
 

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And I was just looking at the top picture again in a full screen photo editor and, for the first time, I saw the paint marks on the lock screw and the sensor itself marking its original position. Huh. I couldn't (or at least didn't) see those actually on the bike!

Vinnie
 

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For those that have asked, the manual for the 2012-2016 dl650 has you warming the bike up first before checking where the TPS is at. At cold mine was on the bottom of the C. When warmed up it remained the same.
 

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For those that have asked, the manual for the 2012-2016 dl650 has you warming the bike up first before checking where the TPS is at. At cold mine was on the bottom of the C. When warmed up it remained the same.
So what does the manual say where it should be when its warmed up, in the middle? Below specification is from the V2 manual.

 

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Correct. It should be in the middle position for the Wee2 according to the manual. Though for whatever reason it's a capitalized C.
 

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I realize this thread is quite old, but great information. Going to set my TPS sensor this weekend. Thanks for sharing, since my only minor complaint on my '18 Dl1000 is the snatchy throttle. Will make the adjustments, and then see about the BoosterPlug
 

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I realize this thread is quite old, but great information. Going to set my TPS sensor this weekend. Thanks for sharing, since my only minor complaint on my '18 Dl1000 is the snatchy throttle. Will make the adjustments, and then see about the BoosterPlug
Setting it helped my 2018. I also took the slack out of the throttle cables.

Vinnie

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Setting it helped my 2018. I also took the slack out of the throttle cables.

Vinnie

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You took the slack out? Or did you adjust a bit more slack INTO the cables?

The reason I ask is that in the not so far back days of carburetors a certain amount of slack was specified in the throttle cables (1/8"-1/4") at the grip. This was to take away symptoms such as too quick and snatchy responses, hard starting, cables pulling throttle open slightly on turning the bars and even hanging revs.

Cheers,
Glenn
 

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You need to take the slack out.

The throttle tube has a bump on it to speed up the cable movement, if you have slack in the cable the bump comes on with a big hit and comes on earlier.

A throttle tamer moves that bump a little further from idle so it comes on later and evens things out.
 

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OK thanks. Different animal this new fangled fuel injection.
 

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Hey guys I got to speak up for the booster plug , I have a 16 DL1K and I've modded it to handle some mild off-roading and maybe a trip to Alaska if I can ever get my s#$? together.. that's actually why I bought the bike.. I've done several other mods to refine it and the one nagging problem was that ridiculous throttle I had everything else down to perfect form ..However every time I had low speed technical work to do off road or in town that throttle was making me crazy it was unacceptable.. and you shouldn't have to Fan the clutch like you're riding a CR500 through a china shop..
From a money and reliability standpoint I ruled out the" PCV"... at some point you have to consider "Maybe you're trying to make the bike something it's not "! .....
With a looming thought in the back of my mind I was about to sell the bike and look elsewhere for an Alaska sled ... Then I stumbled across someone's post about a booster plug...
Guys the rest is history I can tell you it is the single best modification I've ever done to The V-Strom..." I demand !" , precise throttle control from back in my dirt biking days.. and there is no way I was going to go forward the way it was.. The booster plug fixed that bike. If you're competent enough to remove the gas tank and unplug a few wire harnesses you got it!... save your money on the Power Commander V if you want a drag bike buy a drag bike if you want to enjoy your V-Strom the way the Suzuki Engineers intended it before the EPA got ahold of it buy a booster plug it kept my bike in my garage and not in the front yard with a sale sign and the thing was cheap somewhere in the neighborhood of 100 to $150 if I remember. I can't stress enough what a fantastic Improvement that thing made I highly recommend it!... check out their website and read the science behind it it basically just temporarily fools a sensor into enriching the fuel while the throttle is being manipulated .When you hit Level throttle position it reverts back to closed-loop operation I swear the guys that invented it are geniuses... Find out for yourself read the write-up.....
Your rear Tire will last longer you won't get as fatigued from the hurkin jerk and it will make you feel good you made such an improvement for so little money... boosterplug is a 5-star item I don't see how anyone could tolerate a V-Strom without it... leave all that ridiculous clutch fanning behind you!

Sent from my SM-G920P using Tapatalk
 

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You took the slack out? Or did you adjust a bit more slack INTO the cables?

The reason I ask is that in the not so far back days of carburetors a certain amount of slack was specified in the throttle cables (1/8"-1/4") at the grip. This was to take away symptoms such as too quick and snatchy responses, hard starting, cables pulling throttle open slightly on turning the bars and even hanging revs.

Cheers,
Glenn
What Rolex said. I reduced the slack. Just make sure you can turn the bars lock to lock without the engine RPM changing.

I'm fortunate enough to have 2 of these bikes: a 2018 here at our primary residence and a 2014 at our second home. Both of them have reasonably smooth throttles. I'm no expert, but I think if the throttle is really snatchy, it's likely there's something wrong. I would leave it to some of the more knowledgeable people here to suggest some other alternatives if your throttle is still snatchy after you set the TPS and reduce the cable slack.

Vinnie

Sent from my SM-T290 using Tapatalk
 

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The guys that built my cruise control done a study of the ECU's on Stroms and at given points there is no fuel injected, that causes the snappy throttle syndrome.

A throttle tamer can help but it can't overcome the zero fuel.

I fitted a second hand PCFC to my V2, their maps were only OK so I chose to have it put on a dyno and a custom tune done, chalk & cheese.

My torque starts at 1600rpm not the 1900 I started with, at 2200rpm my torque increased from 29.94ft-lbs to 49.45, that's almost 20ft-lbs.

My peak torque moved from 6500rpm to 3700.

My bike will pull away with no throttle input even on a incline and will idle around all day, the new ECU with RPM assist has caused me some issues, it gives me more RPM's as I release the clutch leaver and I don't need those RPM's to be happy.
 

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I got a logbox from woolich. You can turn off the deceleration fuel cut. Works well. Got to check all the other stuff is in spec also. 👍👍
 

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Hey guys I got to speak up for the booster plug , I have a 16 DL1K and I've modded it to handle some mild off-roading and maybe a trip to Alaska if I can ever get my s#$? together.. that's actually why I bought the bike.. I've done several other mods to refine it and the one nagging problem was that ridiculous throttle I had everything else down to perfect form ..However every time I had low speed technical work to do off road or in town that throttle was making me crazy it was unacceptable.. and you shouldn't have to Fan the clutch like you're riding a CR500 through a china shop..
From a money and reliability standpoint I ruled out the" PCV"... at some point you have to consider "Maybe you're trying to make the bike something it's not "! .....
With a looming thought in the back of my mind I was about to sell the bike and look elsewhere for an Alaska sled ... Then I stumbled across someone's post about a booster plug...
Guys the rest is history I can tell you it is the single best modification I've ever done to The V-Strom..." I demand !" , precise throttle control from back in my dirt biking days.. and there is no way I was going to go forward the way it was.. The booster plug fixed that bike. If you're competent enough to remove the gas tank and unplug a few wire harnesses you got it!... save your money on the Power Commander V if you want a drag bike buy a drag bike if you want to enjoy your V-Strom the way the Suzuki Engineers intended it before the EPA got ahold of it buy a booster plug it kept my bike in my garage and not in the front yard with a sale sign and the thing was cheap somewhere in the neighborhood of 100 to $150 if I remember. I can't stress enough what a fantastic Improvement that thing made I highly recommend it!... check out their website and read the science behind it it basically just temporarily fools a sensor into enriching the fuel while the throttle is being manipulated .When you hit Level throttle position it reverts back to closed-loop operation I swear the guys that invented it are geniuses... Find out for yourself read the write-up.....
Your rear Tire will last longer you won't get as fatigued from the hurkin jerk and it will make you feel good you made such an improvement for so little money... boosterplug is a 5-star item I don't see how anyone could tolerate a V-Strom without it... leave all that ridiculous clutch fanning behind you!

Sent from my SM-G920P using Tapatalk
have you tried your booster plug when temperatures drop closer to freezing?
 

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Hell yea rode a small section MABDR no prob... varied speed off road,jeep trails,wide open seclueded WVA paved stretches.
Not even a hicup
All it does is fool youre air intake sensor
Temorarily while youre making adjustments to the throttle ( accelerating or decelerating ) when the throttle position stabilizes it returns to normal operation.
So simple it's genius...

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Boosterplug. There are several threads about it. I was also skeptical because its $150 but the results are truly impressive:





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I made the TPS adjustment, my setting was _c00. Adjusted it so the hypen was in the middle as described. Very noticeable difference, much smoother throttle response. I have adjusted the throttle slack cable too, there wasn't much slack to begin with.

Thanks for all the contributors, insight, and pics.
 
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