Hmm.. I had TC2 enabled and the bike was civilized and throttle response was perfect. I feel the BP really mitigated that issue for me.Thanks, I turned off TC and it did help the snappiness throttling from idle.. kinda sucks you have to lose TC to smooth out the throttle
Don't underestimate how easily you can screw something up with a full flash. It takes a lot of experience, and failure, to get to the point where you are a subject matter expert.So, TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) check not withstanding, the owner options are:
- Booster Plug - $159.95
- Dynojet Power Commander Fuel Controller - $210
- Dynojet Power Commander V - $290
- Woolich Racing ECU self-flashing package - $481.00 (or $100 for YOUR ECU if you have access to the software and USB flashing unit)
1. The Booster Plug just fakes a cooler-than-actual ambient air temp (simple but not tunable and not ideal for non-stock exhausts).
2. The Dynojet PCFC easily allows infinitely adjustable fueling at various throttle positions.
3. The Dynojet PC-V, above what the PCFC does, this adds ignition timing adjustment and an add-on "switch map" button and/or quick-shifter option.
4. The Woolich Racing ECU flash package allows custom tuning of over a dozen ECU parameters/options.
Without much chance of finding someone local who can loan me their Woolich Racing kit so I can buy a $100 ECU license, my only logical option with a Yoshimura R77 slip-on is the Dynojet PCFC (ordered with the slip-on). The Booster Plug folks describe the Power Commander as being like playing with a hand grenade but that's ridiculous - if you're THAT stupid then you were going to destroy the bike and maybe yourself anyway.
Your custom tune was provided via dynamometer testing? It would be great if more people bothered to upload their fuel maps. Dynojet's Map Search currently lists just four downloadable maps for the 2nd gen V-Strom 1000:Without the custom tune I would not bother with the PCFC it's only half a job.
I've had little difficulty experimenting with both Bazzaz and Power Commander fuel controllers in the past. I also hacked my car's infotainment system using step-by-step instructions found online to enabled mfr disabled functionality and to make the car accessible via WiFi from my laptop.Don't underestimate how easily you can screw something up with a full flash. It takes a lot of experience, and failure, to get to the point where you are a subject matter expert.
I started with stock air filter and slip on.Your custom tune was provided via dynamometer testing? It would be great if more people bothered to upload their fuel maps. Dynojet's Map Search currently lists just four downloadable maps for the 2nd gen V-Strom 1000:
Any chance you'd be willing to upload your custom tune and exhaust/air filter specifics so that other V-Strom users could benefit from your work on the dyno?
- Stock exhaust, stock air filter
- Arrow slip-on, stock air filter
- Arrow full system, stock air filter
- European model, Delkevic de-cat system, stock or aftermarket air filter
It's a commitment. It's not free. If you have the time and determination, and accept the risk, your likelihood of success is high.I've had little difficulty experimenting with both Bazzaz and Power Commander fuel controllers in the past. I also hacked my car's infotainment system using step-by-step instructions found online to enabled mfr disabled functionality and to make the car accessible via WiFi from my laptop.
Using the Woolich software to change things like Fan Temperature or Deceleration Fuel Cut is hardly rocket science. Not meaning to put too fine a point on it but how much experience do you have in knowing how much experience and failure is required? No doubt some folks would say I was "insane" to change the default background on my new car's infotainment system (and other things) but I found it well within my skills and worth doing. I do ALL my own work on every vehicle I own. No doubt some vehicle owner's aren't competent enough to even change a tire but that doesn't stop me from performing detailed and meticulous work for myself, even complex jobs. I ride motorcycles not because it's simple but because it's technically difficult to do well (and frankly beyond most people).
True statementIt's a commitment. It's not free. If you have the time and determination, and accept the risk, your likelihood of success is high.
But let's not pretend that anyone can successfully modify a fuel map without a significant investment in time, research and trial and error. Otherwise dynos, custom tune shops and services wouldn't exist. You obviously have all the above, hence why you're confident.
HPTuners experience on multiple cars over the years allows me to say the above. It was a phase. Time is finite, and I would prefer to ride, or go the gym, or spend time with the kids, or.... <enter your preferred activity here>
Brilliant information. My new to me 2014 Vee2 was getting a new air filter and Dynojet PCFC anyway so, with these instructions, it was a no-brainer to replace the tamper-resistant T-25 Torx screws with regular Phillips screws and to adjust the TPS. My TPS was way off - the correct position is now significantly off the painted mark applied at the factory. The Secondary Throttle Valve plates were off too - very easy to adjust that. Both the secondary throttle and the exhaust valve (both fully-automatic) appear to self-calibrate at start-up. The only issue is ensuring that the front throttle body (slave) is timed to the rear throttle body (master).Allow me to suggest something that may improve your throttle response. Check your Throttle Position Sensor setting. This is REAL simple and quick and will cost you nothing to check.
The lesson here is twofold: Never assume the factory settings are correct, and dont do performance mods trying to correct drivability issues until you make sure the specified settings are right.
Ok, for future reference for anyone else doing this, once I came in from the cold garage, I found a good location diagram in the manua that shows these sensors. I found it at the beginning of the "Engine Electrical Device" section, page 0C3 of my manual (which includes the L8 - I suspect the page number may be different for earlier years). Looks like I was turning the STP sensor, which is shown in the book as having the conector at 12 o'clock. The TPS sensor appears in this diagram to be below that one and has the connector pointing to about 4 o'clock. Here's hoping that I got the STP sensor back close enough to where it was so that I don't have to take more stuff apart.Thanks! I'll give it a shot tomorrow.