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Discussion Starter #1
For anyone interested in the Smart Turn System (and its sister product, the Smart Brake Module), I installed this item on my 2018 650 this weekend. Bottom line up front, I haven’t been able to work out the gremlins yet and I can’t say that installation was a success. I have completed the installation, but the unit isn’t behaving as it should (I’ll elaborate towards the end). I’m going to share my experience with the device(s) and hopefully someone can give me insight where I went wrong.

I installed the Smart Brake System back in December and had no issues with the installation, but the unit didn’t behave as expected. Instead of the brake light activating as I slowed, the light actually activated when I accelerated. I checked all my wiring, verified the orientation and position of the device, and reviewed the installation guide several times. I switched the wires around to see if that was the issue and when I did that the device didn’t work at all. I removed the provided snap on connectors and soldered the leads to an Easter Beaver brake/tail adapter, with no change in behavior. I then turned the device around so that the arrow on the box faced the rear of the motorcycle. Once I did this the device worked as it is intended. I chose the flashing pattern for the brake light.

I contacted the company (Safer Turn Systems) to tell them about my experience. I sent them pictures of my wiring and they confirmed that it was wired correctly. They offered to send me a new device if I sent my current one back to them, which I accepted. When I received my new device I followed the instructions and again the device activated upon acceleration. I rotated the box to face the rear of the motorcycle, and it worked as intended. The company assured me that they verified that the device they sent me worked before they shipped it and they looked at my returned which worked fine for them. Being that the device worked, just not oriented in the direction intended, and it continues to work, I decided to keep it.

My installation experience with that device gave me serious pause to installing the Smart Turn System. The instructions, as is noted in several YouTube videos, are lacking in clarity and detail. It is made out to be a very simple process but it is anything but. With the help of the wiring diagram, I finally worked up the courage to attempt installation as I had another accessory to install as well. And so we begin.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Part 1

Part 1, stripping her down. Here is a list of things I removed. Some are mandatory, some are optional but made my life considerably less frustrating.
• Fairings and fuel tank. See Dr. VStroms video on this, very detailed.
• Top of the air box and the filter. Not mandatory but very helpful for a little extra room. Had I been more ambitious I should have removed the airbox completely from the cylinders. The rear mounting point is very accessible. The front, not so much. I didn’t have a long enough hex tool and figured that it wasn’t worth it. I can honestly say, I think I’m wrong. Getting in and out of the small space in front of the airbox where the wiring harnesses are is a PITA.
• Loosen the radiator by removing the lower mounting bolt on the right side. Should be enough slack to move it forward a little. I can’t remember if this was necessary or not, but I think it created a little extra space to work with.
• Loosen the mounting bracket above the radiator behind the forks that holds the brake lines. There is a wire retention bracket attached to this that you’ll need some slack on to get the wiring harnesses out.
• Left mirror, knuckle guard, and the wind screen. Not mandatory, just do it. You’re going to spend a lot of time moving around the left bar and less obstruction is better.
• Remove the clamshell switch box from the left handlebar. You will have to later in the installation to put the foams in, so just do it now. Also, free the cables from the guides on the forks (requires cutting the cable tie attached to the clutch cable) and give some slack to the switch box.
• I removed the dash and the beak. Mostly because I was that far in, I figured why not and as mentioned I had another project too. Maybe removing the beak helped because I spent so much time crawling around the bike trying to get the best angle, I didn’t have to worry about banging my head on it.
• If you have engine/crash bars, consider removing them. I have T-Rex bars and I did not remove them. You would think they got in the way but only marginally. I guess it depends on their configuration.
 

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Part 2

Part 2, wiring.

Unfortunately, the wiring harness that is under the left fairing and runs to the dash is missing one necessary wire, the light blue signal wire. This would be incredibly straightforward if it had it. The wiring harnesses you have to tap into are located just in front of the airbox, and they contain the light blue wire. It runs directly to the turn signal relay. There are two harnesses, white and black, and they are attached to a plastic piece with snap in retaining clips. You will have to contort your hands to access them from near the horn to push the retainers in and pop out the harnesses. Once you’ve done that and unclipped the harnesses, you should be able to slip the wiring loom out the front through the retention bracket you loosened earlier.

Now the fun part. Cut back the sheath over the wires and then find the Black, Light Blue, and Light Green wires. They are attached to the black connector. Give yourself some room and cut these three wires and strip them. Attach the female bullet connectors to these wires on the side of the wiring harness because this is the direction the signal travels to the motorcycle. Make sure you crimp well (I didn’t and had to run to the hardware store). Soldering encouraged, and I will be going back and soldering mine once I am satisfied the unit works properly. Attach the Yellow wire from the unit to the Light Green, the Blue from the unit to the Light Blue, and the Green to the Black.

Next, find the Black and White wire in the white wiring harness. This is ground and you will connect one of the Faston connectors to it and then the Black wire from the unit. Next is to determine where you are drawing power from and connect the Red wire from the unit. Since there is limited slack on the units wiring, this is where I believe my problem lies. I first tapped into the high beam (Yellow). When tested the unit before moving on from this step, predictably it only worked when the high beam was activated. I then tapped into the lo beam (Orange).

The directions tell you at this time you should reconnect the harnesses and test the unit. It requires fishing the harnesses back through the frame and into their corresponding connectors by the airbox. You will have to bring them back out to connect the other side of the unit. I wish I counted how many times I moved mine in and out. I had a successful test of the unit. Mind you, at this time I’ve got no dash connected, no front turn signals (although later in testing I did connect both front turn signals), no foams in the switch, and no fuel to start the motorcycle. But the system did perform its boot sequence correctly indicating wiring is correct. Disconnect the harnesses and pull the wiring back out again.

Now attach the male bullet connectors to the Black, Light Blue, and Light Green wires as they lead back to the switch housing. Connect the White wire from the unit to the Light Green, the Brown to the Light Blue, and the Purple to the Black. In theory, this should do it so if you are confident, you can shrink wrap or e-tape it up. Fish the wires back through the frame and reconnect the harnesses. I tested mine again and everything worked right. Before I moved on and completed the installation, I worked on the switch housing.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Part 3

Part 3, the switch and reassembly.

You have to completely remove the switch itself from the housing. There are two interior screws and the switch should lift out with some wiggling. It is important that before you do this you make sure that you reset the switch position by pressing the switch straight in to release the catch. Once you have the switch out there is a small black T shaped box which has the wiring and the cavities where you will put the foams. The cavities face down when sitting in the switch assembly, do you have to rotate it around a little to see the location. I used one of the two smaller foams provided and placed that in the side that corresponds to the left-hand switch. It’s bigger than the cavity but its foam, so you can push it in with needle nose pliers. Once it’s all the pay in don’t try to push it to far because it will come back out the top/front of the box. For the side that corresponds to the right turn signal, I cut a smaller sliver off of one of the two larger foams provided. When I used the full small foam, I had a hard time getting the right switch to make contact to activate the lights. This was trial and error and I got it from this YouTube video:
, around the 17:00 mark. The only way you’re going to know what works is to place foams, return the box to the switch box, put the switch back into the box, and firmly hold it in palace while you try to activate the switch. You have to have the bike on (power, at least) to accomplish this. Once you are satisfied, replace the screws.

Now, assuming that you are satisfied with your wiring and everything tested out, you can start putting everything back together. First, snap the wiring harnesses back into plastic piece they were secured to with their retaining clips. Then secure the mounting bracket above the radiator. Make sure your wires are routed through the guide or around it. I had picked the location I wanted to attach my STS unit up on the left fairing so for now it was just dangling near the fork. This also meant that I had an extra wire that needed to go through this area and since my heated grips are wired through as well, I was running out of room. Instead of fishing it though the wire guide, I routed it outside of it and cable tied it to secure it. This was also important in making sure that all the slack I created by freeing up the switch assembly wouldn’t get eaten up by competing with other wires for a route through.

Speaking of the switch assembly, I tackled that next. Like I said, I previously completely freed it of the clutch cable and the wire guide. This was really necessary as I have bar risers and it is at its limit at right lock. I was able to run the wiring behind the wire guide and used cable ties to secure it back to the clutch cable closer to the mounting location. Once the switch box was back together, reverse the disassembly.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Part 4

Step 4, placing the unit and testing.

As I previously mentioned, I had picked out where I wanted to place the unit itself on the inside of the left fairing just above where the wire cluster/harnesses are secured to the fairing. I used Velcro to attach it to fairing and just pressed it in. It seems secure enough as the unit is light. I can see the unit from the saddle so if I feel it is going to come loose, I carry cable ties with me and can zip it up. Maybe I’ll look for another location after I’ve worked out the kinks.

Throughout the installation I had been testing the device to make sure I didn’t dislodge any of the connections and that all was working. Every test was met with a successful boot cycle. I also tested by holding the device, activating the turn signal, and then turning the orientation of the device 90 degrees in the direction I had signaled. Every time it worked flawlessly. But…I never actually started the motorcycle, I was working on accessory power.

When I finally had everything back together I turned the key and waited for the boot cycle. Still no problem. I flipped the kill switch to on and pressed the starter. I think everything is great. Then I hit the turn signal and…nothing. That’s right, nothing. No left turn, no right turn, no dash indicators. I kill the motor and the device goes through its boot sequence. I try the signal and it works. Interesting. I then flip the kill switch and try the signals. They work and the device works as it should. I start the bike and once again, nothing from the signals. I take it out around the neighborhood and try to activate the signals, but nothing happens. Return home, kill the engine, the device boots and the signals flash. I try the signals and everything works as it should again.

My theory is that I tapped the wrong power source. I believe I’ve seen other members mention that the headlight has an interrupt when the starter switch is pressed and I’ve seen the light flick when I push the starter button so I’m guessing that something happens when that occurs to confuse the device. When I push the starter with the kill switch off the unit cycles through the boot sequence. I guess my next step is to take everything back apart and find another power source. I’ve heard some mention that the horn has switched power so that might be were I try since it is in the vicinity. I also will look at the Aux/Heated Grip plug, again its close enough. I’d like to keep the power on the existing harnesses though so I don’t have to separate the wires too far. There are 12 total wires in the two harnesses. The ones that are being used for the signals are Light Blue, Light Green, Black, and the Black/White is being used for the ground. I’ve now tried the Yellow (high beam) and Orange (lo beam). That leaves the following: Yellow/Green (mode switch), Pink (select switch), Green (mode switch), Black/Green (mode and select switch negatives, leads to a Black/White down the line), Black/Yellow (clutch switch), and Black/Blue (horn). I’m wondering if the Black/Blue can be tapped?

Any help is appreciated in identifying what I did wrong and how I fix it. I hope this helps someone down the line if you consider this product.

Thanks!
 

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Have you been in touch with the STS people in Europe? I had an extensive conversation via email over several days with them when I installed their system on my 2014 Vee2. They were incredibly patient with me and eventually I got it installed and working fine, although I found myself frustrated many times during the process. I really like the system, myself, but it took me about a week of back and forth with the manufacturers until I got it working just right.

If I had been able to find someone I could pay to perform the installation, I would have jumped at the chance, but nobody in my area wanted to have anything to do with it.
 

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You might want to try a Kisan Signal Minder. The SM3S fits the 2015 DL650....not sure about the 2018.

Self cancelling signals, flashing brake light, turn signals to running lights(awesome at night), and a few other features for $109

Edit....it does fit the 2018:

https://kisantech.com/sm-3s.html

It's plug and play
 

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Have you been in touch with the STS people in Europe? I had an extensive conversation via email over several days with them when I installed their system on my 2014 Vee2. They were incredibly patient with me and eventually I got it installed and working fine, although I found myself frustrated many times during the process. I really like the system, myself, but it took me about a week of back and forth with the manufacturers until I got it working just right.

This is my next step. I did receive good communication from them throughout my install of the brake module so no doubt they will be helpful again. Just wanted to see if anyone had easy suggestions first.




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Have you been in touch with the STS people in Europe? I had an extensive conversation via email over several days with them when I installed their system on my 2014 Vee2. They were incredibly patient with me and eventually I got it installed and working fine, although I found myself frustrated many times during the process. I really like the system, myself, but it took me about a week of back and forth with the manufacturers until I got it working just right.

If I had been able to find someone I could pay to perform the installation, I would have jumped at the chance, but nobody in my area wanted to have anything to do with it.
Out of curiosity, do you recall what wire you used to tap power?
 

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Ok, I contacted STS and they concurred that it was a power issue. They suggested trying something that has 12v power after the engine is on. I thought that was self explanatory. I disconnected from the headlight and reconnected the positive lead to the horn wire. Everything works as expected, even when the bike is on, up until the point the horn is activated. Then the system stops working. In order to get it working again I have to cycle the kill switch. As long as I don’t activate the horn, the system works as expected. I’d rather not have to kill the engine on the interstate to get the signals to work again if I need to activate the horn while changing lanes. I need to find 12v power that doesn’t get interrupted and these are the wires left in the harness I haven’t tried: Yellow/Green (mode switch), Pink (select switch), Green (mode switch), and Black/Yellow (clutch switch). What I may end up doing is running the power back to my Eastern Beaver PC-8 since I have extra fuses. Any feedback appreciated.


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Thanks for sharing Rustlr, very helpful as I'm wiring one up in my '14 Vee. Early days, just identifying the wires. But wonder if should access power via my relay block as well. Presume 15A be appropriate just like the turn signal fuse? Presume black and white in the white harness is ground on the V as well as the W - anyone confirm?
 

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I tried installing one on my ST 1300 and ran into problems. Their customer service was less than stellar and other ST owners experienced the same problems. They ended up sending me a replacement unit that I did not install. I simply have learned to hit the cancel button on the turn switch.

That said, the STS is a fairly sophisticated device that uses accelerometers to determine when the bike is moving and turning If you do a gradual lane change, you can defeat the device and your signals will keep flashing. Make deliberate turns and lane changes (not always possible) and the unit will work fine.
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
I'm out of town for a couple of days and am not with the bike. Can't recall as it was last year.


Thank you I would be good to know just so I could identify what I did wrong. I wound up running the power straight back to my fuse box and the system works correctly. I had extra slots available and figured it was easier to isolate power than worry about which wires would work best.


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Thanks for sharing Rustlr, very helpful as I'm wiring one up in my '14 Vee. Early days, just identifying the wires. But wonder if should access power via my relay block as well. Presume 15A be appropriate just like the turn signal fuse? Presume black and white in the white harness is ground on the V as well as the W - anyone confirm?

I got it done and everything works correctly now. I am using a 7.5A fuse because u figured the signals don’t use that big a load but can always swap it out. I ran both the power and ground to the fuse block so I’m not tapping any of the non signal related wires any longer.



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I got the initial flash thing, then wired up the rest of it, but couldn't work out where to insert the little rubber pads in the switch block - underneath the black thing the lever sits in or on the sides of it?
 

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I got the initial flash thing, then wired up the rest of it, but couldn't work out where to insert the little rubber pads in the switch block - underneath the black thing the lever sits in or on the sides of it?


Underneath. On the sides doesn’t prevent the black box from moving. Out of curiosity, where did you tap power?


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