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I recently replaced my battery and I'm not sure if I needed to or if I have something draining the new one. I put risers on my 2012 650 vstrom last year, but I never had problems until I tried adding a USB charger to the bike. Now I have menu selector changing every time I squeeze the clutch, and sluggish starting every now and then.

Any advise would be appreciated
 

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Is the USB charger on a switched circuit? I put one on my 2016 650 and have no problems but I put it on the heated grip circuit, which is powered only when the key is on. Most USB chargers draw power constantly. Have you checked to see how much power your charging system is putting out?
 

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Yah, if you just installed it and it doesn't work, you did something wrong. Try again.
I got funky volt meter readings until I reworked the source voltage. It was showing me what the line drop was for the accessories.
 

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Ensure your clutch leaver is not activating your flash to pass switch when it's pulled in
 

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Most USB chargers draw power constantly. Have you checked to see how much power your charging system is putting out?
I don't understand this statement. USB ports do not draw power unless something is plugged into them. They are just like 12 V outlets.
Am I incorrect?
 

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I don't understand this statement. USB ports do not draw power unless something is plugged into them. They are just like 12 V outlets.
Am I incorrect?
As long as there is power to a USB port, it’s busy converting 12V to 5V. It’s only drawing single to double digit MA so without additional parasitic draw or weak battery, etc a healthy battery should be good for a few weeks. A dirty battery surface can draw more than a usb and compound the problem further. Some eBay and Amazon units are illuminated causing higher MA drain.
 

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My reading & testing tells me that good quality USB's have a parcitick draw but the cheep elcrapo ones do not
 

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As long as there is power to a USB port, it’s busy converting 12V to 5V. It’s only drawing single to double digit MA so without additional parasitic draw or weak battery, etc a healthy battery should be good for a few weeks. A dirty battery surface can draw more than a usb and compound the problem further. Some eBay and Amazon units are illuminated causing higher MA drain.
Hmm...
Without a load I wonder what USBs are busy. Converts to 5V, but wouldn't that be only when a load requiring current is present? No so consumption of energy when shut down.
Not chipped so no input polling consumption there.
Where is the draw via the USB in stasis?
 

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........I put risers on my 2012 650 vstrom last year, but I never had problems until I tried adding a USB charger to the bike. Now I have menu selector changing every time I squeeze the clutch, and sluggish starting every now and then.
I would never connect a power outlet to a non switched source. The potential to leave something draining the battery could be very inconvenient. The heated grips plug is the obvious source if you only intend to have one or two electrical accessories. Where did you source your power?
A parasitic drain could explain a less enthusiastic starter motor. Checks across the battery with a meter while the bike is sitting unused will identify this. In any case, taking the risk of forgetting to remove an accessory is just not worth it. Convert to switched power.
In your recent work you must have also rearranged the clutch lever/LH switch block relationship. The select button is on the front of the switch block - just where the clutch lever might touch it when pulled in. Move the lever, or the switch block.
 

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Hmm...
Without a load I wonder what USBs are busy. Converts to 5V, but wouldn't that be only when a load requiring current is present? No so consumption of energy when shut down.
Not chipped so no input polling consumption there.
Where is the draw via the USB in stasis?
That’s beyond my pay grade :smile2: However I do recall seeing youtube videos with inline meters showing the milliamp loss with no load when researching USB ports a few years back. I don’t recall why though.
 

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Not above your pay grade at all! I am retired and have no pay grade. So I am jealous. Send me money.
A USB expends no more power without a load than a home outlet with nothing plugged in.
The milliamp bleed previously reported could simply be the resistors in the voltmeter itself heating up while measuring (taking current from) the outlet.

Also, "cheap" USBs are no different than "expensive" USBs. All the same. It is a industry conformed standard circuit.
The fact that OEMs do not include USBs on new bikes is a travesty. They cost nothing. And we all need them. And cup holders.... NOT!
 

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I can grantee that quality voltage converters have a milliamp draw with my Zumo being 0.02amps with no load but my cheep GPS has a zero draw.
 

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Not above your pay grade at all! I am retired and have no pay grade. So I am jealous. Send me money.
A USB expends no more power without a load than a home outlet with nothing plugged in.
The milliamp bleed previously reported could simply be the resistors in the voltmeter itself heating up while measuring (taking current from) the outlet.

Also, "cheap" USBs are no different than "expensive" USBs. All the same. It is a industry conformed standard circuit.
The fact that OEMs do not include USBs on new bikes is a travesty. They cost nothing. And we all need them. And cup holders.... NOT!
I’d drink to that but I don’t have a cup holder :surprise: while that may be true, according to a bit of research a home outlet with a usb converter only plunged in will draw power, although quite minimal.
 
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