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Discussion Starter #1
My 2006 v-strom started acting up this week. Coming home from a ride it would stall as soon as I'd let off the throttle. I managed to limp home by re-starting and then keeping the rpm's up around 4000 or more. Not a fun ride.

Took the bike apart and cleaned the air cleaner and changed the spark plugs (badly carboned up). Took the bike for a spin and it ran great. Rode home (highway mostly) and it ran no problem.

The next day I put it up on the centre stand, started it and put in gear to spray the chain. As soon as I put it in gear, it stalled. Re-started and it would idle ok. Reved it up and it would rev but as soon as I'd let go the throttle, the rpm's 'crash' and it stall (ie same prob as before).

It's now in the shop but I was doing some internet searching for similar problems and I've found nothing.

I'm a little panicky as I'm supposed to start a long ride next Sunday.

Sue
 

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Discussion Starter #4
It's regular idle is set at about 1100rpm or so. When it first happened I couldn't keep it idling and by the time we limped it home, I could start it and it would idle (would still die if rev'd up and let go). After changing the plugs and cleaning the air filter, it ran great for a run around the block and then the ride home (mostly highway). Next day it would start and idle, but wouldn't keep running if I rev'd it up and let it go.

It was about half way through a tank of gas and I'd been out for a few short rides over a couple of days, on the tank.

Sue
 

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The 650 idle is to be set between 1200-1400rpm. 1100 is too low. Also, do not lube the chain with the engine running and in gear. Many bad things have happened and more lube gets flung off than penetrates.
 

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Q1:How many miles does the bike have on it ?
Q2:What maintenance has been performed on the bike & at what mileages ?
Q3:I know you said you just cleaned the air filter, but how many miles does the air filter have on it ? What color is the air filter ?


P.S. You do realize that the service manual calls for a new air filter every 11,000mi. on a DL650K6 ? The only exception might be a washable air filter such as a K&N.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
The bike has 58000km and it was overdue for service. Last major service was over a year ago at 36000km when it got the new K&N filter, plugs, checked for bucket and shim stuff, throttle body, etc. Oil changes and chain maintenance are done regularly. Just got a new front tire, brakes, brake fluid. Up until this past service, everything was done pretty close to the book.

The filter is a K&N and it was recharged. It was dirty, but not that bad.

The idle has always been just over the 1000, so maybe almost 1200, but certainly never as high as 1400. I've had the bike 3 yrs as of Friday.
 

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Really, set the idle at 1300 and see how it works first.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Really, set the idle at 1300 and see how it works first.
I understand... but this is NOT the problem. It will idle. Rev'ing it and letting go the needle 'crashes' to zero and the red light goes on and the bike is dead all in a split second.

Pulling in the clutch and rolling off the throttle is enough to kill the bike.... immediately.

I couldn't even ride it to the shop and had to get a tow. It's there now, but no solutions yet.

Sue
 

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Rev'ing it and letting go the needle 'crashes' to zero and the red light goes on and the bike is dead all in a split second.

Pulling in the clutch and rolling off the throttle is enough to kill the bike.... immediately.
A low idle can do those things. Idle speed is about more than the ability to sit and run. It also involves the ability to ramp up revs from idle and preventing stalling when dropping to idle. 1100 is a full 100 rpm down from the lowest recommended setting and 300 down from the highest. The idle should be set somewhere in the 1200-1400 range and not exhibit those problems. Set the idle at different places in the recommended range before looking for additional problems. 1100 is always a wrong setting. 1200 could even be wrong for some bikes the best setting for yours may even be 1400. Only if no setting between 1200-1400 fixes things should further investigation be necessary. If another problem is found, the idle should still be set in the recommended range.
 

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I hope the mechanic that is looking at it is a certified Suzuki motorcycle mechanic.

I also hope that when they did the 'Shim & Bucket stuff' at the prior service that they gave you a written copy of what the intake & exhaust valve measurements were on both the front and rear cylinders. Might be interesting to look at those.

BTW, 87 octane gas works well in the Strom, as long as it is good clean gas, otherwise you can clog and ruin your fuel filter if you buy from a bad station.

When I read original post, I thought the engine was being starved of air and/or fuel. When you cleaned the air filter, it seemed to alleviate the problem temporarily, but the problem came back. That's why I asked about the air filter. I wonder what the gaps were on the new spark plugs when you changed them ? I wonder what color the old plugs were when you took them out ? There are charts where the color of the old plugs can reveal things about how the motor was running--aside from just being fouled from normal use.

P.S. I have a DL650K6 and it idles at about 1100 rpm, unless after a hard run it goes up to about 1300 for a while. The bike runs perfectly. However, changing the idle on the K6 is very easy to do. So you may want to try it.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
The shim and bucket stuff was a year ago, from a mechanic I trust. I have the shop manual, so everything was to spec there.

The old plugs were black with a lot of carbon on them. The gaps were on the high side of within spec.

The air filter wasn't all that bad.

I only ever use regular gas (87) as it's happiest that way.

Quick update... the shop just called (a suzuki dealer) and they think they have the problem solved. It seems that there are sensors under the air filter box. These were covered with green corrosion and they think this was causing extra resistance and therefore causing the sensors not to operate properly. They've cleaned all that and taken it out for a spin and it's happy, so I get to pick it up and try it.!!!

Sue
 

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I understand... but this is NOT the problem. It will idle. Rev'ing it and letting go the needle 'crashes' to zero and the red light goes on and the bike is dead all in a split second.

Pulling in the clutch and rolling off the throttle is enough to kill the bike.... immediately.

I couldn't even ride it to the shop and had to get a tow. It's there now, but no solutions yet.

Sue
That's exactly the symptoms of the problem I just solved by adjusting my idle to 1300rpm with a bike at hot operating temperature.

It's just a screw to turn... such a simple starting point. Best wishes,
~Sarah
 

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Discussion Starter #15
So the bike is fixed. Cleaning up the corrosion around the sensors has fixed the problem. I will likely bump up the idle a little, but the problem I was having had nothing to do with the idle speed.

I will now be checking under the air filter housing whenever I'm cleaning the air filter, just to make sure everything is ok under there.

Sue
 

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So the bike is fixed. Cleaning up the corrosion around the sensors has fixed the problem. I will likely bump up the idle a little, but the problem I was having had nothing to do with the idle speed.

I will now be checking under the air filter housing whenever I'm cleaning the air filter, just to make sure everything is ok under there.

Sue
Thanks for the follow-up!! Perhaps we can all stand to learn a simple step in maintenance from your experience. Much appreciated!

~Sarah
 

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That's the first time I've heard of the "ol' green corrosion on the sensors below the air box" problem. I guess you should clean them with electical contact cleaner ? Anyway, thanks for the follow-up !
 

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Sue, do you have tons of miles on your bike? Do you ride in the winter? I'm just wondering why all the corrosion.

Maybe you take the odd run up the Ottawa River with it? :D

edit: OK, went back and saw you have 58,000 kms. That's not excessive.


So the bike is fixed. Cleaning up the corrosion around the sensors has fixed the problem. I will likely bump up the idle a little, but the problem I was having had nothing to do with the idle speed.

I will now be checking under the air filter housing whenever I'm cleaning the air filter, just to make sure everything is ok under there.

Sue
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Sue, do you have tons of miles on your bike? Do you ride in the winter? I'm just wondering why all the corrosion.

Maybe you take the odd run up the Ottawa River with it? :D

edit: OK, went back and saw you have 58,000 kms. That's not excessive.
The shop isn't sure why I would have corrosion there. They said that regular washing shouldn't get water up there, nor should riding in the rain (which I do). My BF has suggested that a quick run in January (ok.. so it went up to +9C and I put the battery back in for a run) might have gotten some salt in there which attracted moisture which caused the rest.

The mechanic cleaned everything and then added some sealant to keep water out of the area so it doesn't happen again. It's the first I've heard of this as a possibility.

Sue
 

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stall as soon as I'd let off the throttle. Iwould idle Sue
simply adjust the idle as needed. idle needs adjusted, not often but, from time to time the idle needs adjusted. i put radio knob with set screw on idle screw, so as to make it EZer to adjust on the fly. works ok for me.
 
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