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Discussion Starter #1
curious if after 7,000 miles should i be tweeking my front suspension, rear suspension spring pre-load, or the dampening force nut? i tried to click graywolfes link but i got nada...i weigh 200lbs, 5'10" ride solo with top box and gear. i ride somewhat aggressively at times. thanks
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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VSRI is down right now. Try again later. You want to set the preload so each end compresses about 40mm from full extension when the bike is loaded, including people.
 

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1--Change your front springs. 0.90 kg/mm springs works great for a rider in the 200# range.* The stock springs are dual rate .65 & .85.
2--Set the front and rear sag using the preload adjusters to get the 40 mm plus or minus a couple of mm. If you change springs you might have to change the spring spacers.
3--Only the shock has a damping adjustment, and that is only rebound damping (the speed it extends). Try it one mark higher and see how you like the result. If that's good, try one more mark higher, etc. When you feel it has gone too far, back up one mark and call it good.
4--Keep in mind that your tires and their inflation pressure are part of the system. Start at the listed pressures, 33F/36R and try different pressures up to the max shown on the tire sidewalls to find the pressure that gives you the best riding. And...tires need to be normally warm for proper traction. Go down a psi or two in the winter for more flex and more heat in the tires, and up a bit in the hottest weather and most aggressive riding for less flex and avoid excessive heat build up.


*http://www.sonicsprings.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=31_72&osCsid=5c4a0af859433b07b1c5025927706f58
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Sounds good I will look into it. I am also gonna look into new shocks maybe while at americade get some ideas.
So just to clarify I put zip ties on front forks then compressed them downward while holding the front brake I got aprox 85mm that the zip tie rose upward on the shock. Is that what we are talking when we calculate to 40mm or is that not the method involved?! Thanks again
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Oh and sorry. As for the damping screw down bottom of the rear shock what do you recommend for that the book says turn clockwise all the way then counter clockwise 2 turns to set to baseline. What should I do with that. I reset it te way the book said but it was originally like 5 turns counterclockwise from the full clockwise position. If that made sense. Thx.
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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85mm is a lot. You probably need stronger springs as there probably isn't enough preload available to cover that.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
85mm is with the front shock "screw" adjustments are showing 2.5 lines so I could "tighten" them up some more?
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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85mm is with the front shock "screw" adjustments are showing 2.5 lines so I could "tighten" them up some more?
Yes you could and it's a good idea but it's only a stop gap measure. You really need stronger springs.
 

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Oh and sorry. As for the damping screw down bottom of the rear shock what do you recommend for that the book says turn clockwise all the way then counter clockwise 2 turns to set to baseline. What should I do with that. I reset it te way the book said but it was originally like 5 turns counterclockwise from the full clockwise position. If that made sense. Thx.
Raise the front tire off the ground and snug the cable tie around the dust cover on the upper fork tube. Get on the bike wearing your riding gear. Balance straight up and let the suspension settle--don't bounce it, just let it settle. Get off. Raise the tire and measure how far the tie moved up the fork leg. The rear is about the same process but a helper is almost essential. Measure from the axle to a point on the rear fender with the tire off the ground and again with you on it with a normal load. Subtract the two measurements and set the preload adjuster for 40 mm.
 
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