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Should I be gluing some parts in my alternator?

1808 Views 11 Replies 6 Participants Last post by  Solarguy
I recall seeing something about some parts in alternators coming loose, causing the alternator to fail. I did have a failed alternator a few years ago, and am thinking I should look into this preventative "fix", if it's real. But I can't find anything about it now.

Any clues?

Thanks

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There has been an issue, mainly affecting first generation 1000's (2002-12), where the stator magnets detach and move. The fix is, while OK or after they are repositioned, to put a bead of JB Weld BETWEEN the magnets to prevent their migration.
Tire Wheel Automotive tire Motor vehicle Tread

In this image the owner has marked the magnets so that he can ensure that they go back in the correct order and orientation.
Look here for details.
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It looks like you have a 650, if yes you are fine just keep your oil level on the high side to help keep things cool.
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I didn't see his signature line. :cool: My 2010 650 has never had any charging issue.
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Any problems with the 650's magnets coming loose? :unsure:
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I don't know exactly what the failure was, but I needed a replacement alternator a few years ago.

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It's not an alternator, stator and rotor for this motorcycle.
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It's not an alternator, stator and rotor for this motorcycle.
Yeah I can never keep that terminology straight.

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In this case it does matter. If an alternator fails, well, it's a self-contained unit so typically replaced as a whole. But on the 'strom you can replace/fix your rotor, stator and regulator/rectifier independently of each other. So knowing what component failed (since it's a DL650 I suspect the stator) can help us answer your question better.

The DL1000 2003-later rotor is a six-magnet (permanent magnets) rotor. These tend to come loose over time, bunch together and severely reduce the charging voltage. Occasionally they also hit the stator causing massive destruction. Putting a JB Weld "bridge" between the magnets is an easy fix and should really be done preventatively on all 2003+ DL1000s. However that applies to the DL1000 only. The DL650 rotor is fully encased in epoxy (?) and I have not heard of any issues with a DL650 rotor ever.

The stator is a known weak point of all Stroms. Mostly because the default R/R is a shunt regulator so any excess charging current is "fed back" (someone correct me on the terminology here) into the stator causing high amps and eventually burning/charring/shorting of wiring. Keeping your oil level high helps a bit (the stator is partly oil-cooled) but the best upgrade would be to a series regulator such as the SH775 or SH847. Another reason that some stators burn through prematurely is that Suzuki used hot-melt glue to glue some components in place, and then applied the (anti-vibration) epoxy over it. The hot glue eventually melts, exposing the wiring to vibrations. Other than a visual inspection every now and then, the stator tests as described in the manual, and upgrading to a series regulator, there's nothing you can do preventatively to the stator.

The regulator/rectifier is a self-contained unit as well, and not user serviceable. It works until it breaks. There is a diode test in the manual to see if it still is OK, but if it isn't, you've got to replace it as a whole.

Long story short: On a DL650, other than replacing your R/R with a series regulator, there's nothing you can do preventatively to maintain your charging system. On a 2003+ DL1000 it is highly recommended to do the JB Weld bridge fix, to make sure your magnets cannot migrate.

To detect charging issues early, install a voltmeter if your display doesn't have one by default, learn the normal voltages for your bike and investigate any deviations.
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. . .

To detect charging issues early, install a voltmeter if your display doesn't have one by default, learn the normal voltages for your bike and investigate any deviations.
Yeah I installed a voltmeter shortly after that incident. Ironically, I also installed a headlight modulator, which means that the voltage meter is normally going apeshit trying to decide what voltage to display :ROFLMAO:. I have to disable the headlight modulator to get a sensible reading.
You can upgrade the regulator to fend off any future problems

Some bikes will never have one while others will

Keeping the oil level high helps
Yeah I installed a voltmeter shortly after that incident. Ironically, I also installed a headlight modulator, which means that the voltage meter is normally going apeshit trying to decide what voltage to display :ROFLMAO:. I have to disable the headlight modulator to get a sensible reading.
You will get more accurate and more stable numbers from your voltmeter if you run dedicated wires all the way back to the battery. That also means it will be on all the time and run your battery down, so I install a rocker switch right under it on the dash.

My my tire pressure sensor/monitor system also has a voltmeter function, and it's often very different from my main voltmeter.
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