[MountainLagoon]

Hello strommers

I was discussing this in the DL650 specific thread but it probably belongs here. The word doc was too big so my list is below. I leave a print out in my toolbox now that the descrepancies in my DL650 service manual have been found on other threads (thanks Greywolf).

My toolbox list is additional to the 6000km muffler and chassis bolt tightening as recommended in my service manual.

It is a quick referance for tasks like oil and spark plug change, front and rear tyre/rim removal, brake bleedeing/pad/fluid change, fork position change, coolant change etc. Hopefully someone else can find it usefull. I feel confident with these jobs after doing them on various bikes over the years. So my manual only comes out for "other" repairs/mods or a quick refrersher read.

Since installing my swmotech crashgaurds removing the cowling is a PITA.... is it bad wrench practice to remove the crash gaurds and therefore the engine bracket mounting bolts (one side at a time to ensure engine position) at the 6000km service intervals??? with the bolts removed cleaned, new loctite and installed with the correct torque I can not think of any reason not too? and it will stop more scratches apperaing on my cowlings!

VSTROM DL650A GENERAL TORQUE’S

CHASSIS BOLTS & NUTS – pg 2-27, 2-28
TORQUE TABLE – pg 9-42

ENGINE SUMP BOLT CRUSH WASHER - Suzuki part No 09168-12002
Size - 11.8mm ID x 16mm OD x 3.5mm thick

OIL FILTER – 2 TURNS
OIL DRAIN PLUG – 21 Nm, 15 lb-ft

SPARK PLUG – 11 Nm, 8 lb-ft - triangle mark to exhaust side.

FRONT AXLE = 12mm Hex head tool – 65 Nm, 47 lb-ft
FRONT AXLE PINCH BOLTS – 23 Nm, 16.5 lb-ft

REAR AXLE NUT – 100 Nm, 72 lb-ft WRONG… use 85 Nm, MAX
REAR SPROCKET BOLTS – 60 Nm, 43 ft-lbs WRONG…. use 40 Nm MAX

FRONT BRAKE CALIPER BOLTS – 39 Nm, 28 lb-ft
FRONT BRAKE BLEEDER VALVE 7.5 Nm, 5.5 lb-ft

BRAKE DISC BOLTS FRONT AND REAR – 23 Nm, 16.5 lb-ft
BRAKE MASTER CYL MOUNTING BOLT FRONT & REAR - 10 Nm, 7lb-ft
BRAKE HOSE UNION BOLT - 23 Nm, 16.5 lb-ft

REAR BRAKE CALIPER BOLTS – 22 Nm, 16 lb-ft
REAR BRAKE BLEEDER VALVE – 6 Nm, 4.3 lb-ft

EXHAUST PIPE + MUFFLER MOUNT BOLTS – 23 Nm, 16.5 lb-ft

STEERING STEM HEAD NUT – 90 Nm, 65 lb-ft
FORK CLAMP UPPER & LOWER BOLTS– 23 Nm, 16.5 lb-ft
HANDLEBAR CLAMP BOLTS – 23 Nm, 16.5 lb-ft

COOLANT DRAIN BOLT – 13Nm, 9.5 lb-ft

ENGINE MOUNTING BRACKET BOLTS (CRASH GUARD) – 23 Nm, 16.5lb-ft

OIL COOLER MOUNTING BOLT – 10 Nm, 7 lb-ft
OIL COOLER HOSE UNION BOLT – 23 Nm, 16.5 lb-ft

REAR SHOCKER UPPER & LOWER MOUNTING NUT – 50 Nm, 36 lb-ft
CUSHION ROD & LEVER NUT – 78 Nm, 56.5 lb-ft

 

[skyguy]

Excellent list - hope it can be a sticky.

But as long as you have the torque wrench out...

OIL FILTER – 20 N-m or 14.5 lbf-ft

Since I use the torque wrench on my drain bolt anyway, I figure I might as well use it on my filter, too. This way you don't have to squint to ascertain exactly when the gasket touches, and you don't have to worry about counting to two turns.

 

[MountainLagoon]

Thanks,

Yes I should have included those figures after my "2 turns" value for other readers

My list has "2 turns" as my torque value because I use aftermarket filters without the bolt on the end.

I have a good "feel" for filters but its a reminder for me to mark the filter before tightening it.

I always go for a short ride before maintenance as undoing bolts with loctite is much easier on a warm chassis, plus always lube a warm chain, change oil when warm (not hot) etc.

Ride in, up on the paddock stands, crack any bolts required (but not remove), let engine cool a little by.... checking service manual / laying out parts / sweeping floor / clean bike then into the job.