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Discussion Starter #1
Had to get a new rear tire after this happened:



Very suspicious cut eh?

Front was do so I bought a set of Shinko 712s. I've been wanting to try out pure street tires just to see how smooth my Gen2 650 could run. They were about $120 delivered.



 
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I've been looking at the 712s for a while. Thought I would get a set for the trip to the Eastern rally in May...let us know how you like them..I'll check back from time to time.. Thanks
 

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I had a similar cut on a much more worn tire, it do happen.
If the 712's are as good as the 705's, they are best buy.
I think a Wee friend is using them.
 

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These can't be as loud as the 705 tires. Not that I'm complaining. Saving those bucks was nice.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I've only got a few miles on the tires but my initial impressions;

Smooth as glass. Really compared to the OEMs and the Shinko 705. Kind of weird actually not in a bad way though.

I didn't balance them just oriented the mark on the tire to the valve stem. No vibration up past 70 mph.

They turn in pretty easy. The OEM front on my bike was needing changed so it may be just the difference between old and new. The profile is a bit more triangular so that probably contributes towards the difference. I've got 38 psi front, 40 psi back dropping the pressure a bit may be in order.

Typically I don't get a lot of miles out of tires. Roads have a lot of mineral content here and it's hot in the summer.


About that tire cut... the motorcycle guys at work are divided about the cause, road hazard vs. malicious. I'm just thankful that it didn't let go on me on the road!

.
 

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Which size are you running on the front. 100/90H-19 or 110/90H-19. A friend ran the 110 on a 05 and at speed the tire expanded enough to eat holes through the fender.
 

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I was looking at the 712 as well. I don't do any "offroad" riding, but I do like to take the occasional dirt road, and I'm a little unsure how these would do.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Which size are you running on the front. 100/90H-19 or 110/90H-19. A friend ran the 110 on a 05 and at speed the tire expanded enough to eat holes through the fender.

I was debating about which size to get.

I went with the 100/90 because it's close to the diameter of the OEM. Checking the fender clearance after install I don't think that there is adequate space to install a 110/90. Less than an inch right now.

The 110/90 is about 3/4" larger in diameter it may fit but it's going to be right up against the fender.
 

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Well my new set should be here tomorrow...dang,just wish it would warm up...probably teens again tonight. Oh I ordered 100/90/19 front, 150/70/17 rear..we shall see.
 

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About that tire cut... the motorcycle guys at work are divided about the cause, road hazard vs. malicious. I'm just thankful that it didn't let go on me on the road!

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I got one almost like that across half of a car tire but not so deep - it went about half the depth of the tread blocks. Doing that with a knife would be really difficult to avoid multiple slashes.

I think mine was from the edge of one of those traffic plates they put down to cover excavations.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
3k mile update:

The rear is squaring off, looks like it will be done in <5k miles. That's pretty typical for me though.

Front looks like it did when new really. Doesn't show much wear at all. It will easily go 3 rears at this rate.

Something I noticed about the rear tire. After extended 75-85 mph highway runs on hot pavement the tire contact area was gummy looking, for lack of a better term. The tire itself wasn't hot from low pressure but the contact area looked like it was going away fast.

These tires are more street oriented than I've used before and maybe that's the reason, more contact area and softer compound? Don't know but they ride fine.
 

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I didn't balance them just oriented the mark on the tire to the valve stem.
A yellow dot on the tire is to be located at the valve stem. That is the point of the tire's lightest weight to be matched with the wheel's heaviest point.

A red dot is the point of maximum radial force variation, should be aligned with the wheel assembly's point of minimum radial run-out. This is the tire's point of stiffest sidewall or most egg-shape. Match with the wheel's low point if you can rotate the wheel on a balancer with a dial indicator to find the low point.

If you know the wheel's low point, put the red dot there and ignore the yellow dot. If you don't know the low point, put the yellow dot at the valve stem and ignore the red dot.
 

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I'm tempted to try these, because unbelievably, they are cheaper than even the 705's! None of my rear tires seem to last beyond 5000 miles, no matter which brand I buy (I do a lot of two up riding). I'm also on gravel a lot, though, and they look like they might be a little squirrely there.
 
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