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Discussion Starter #1
I searched reading the threads because I also have the first to second grind, then found in the manual that the speed called for is a mere 11 mph. and just 24 for 2nd to Third. So going to try shifting much earlier from a stop.
 

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The gears actually grind?

Maybe your clutch is not working properly?

Mine has a clunk, but no grinding.
 

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You should be able to shift anywhere in the usable RPM range without grinding. A "clunk" as Bugzy said is a different story.


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Those speeds in the manual are minimums for upshifting. You need to go at least that speed or more rather than exactly that speed.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
OK that makes more sense being minimum. I have tried quicker and slower clutching so feeling like it should be smoother.
 

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Suggested shift points are always ridiculously low. I'm with Graywolf that those are minimums. Having said that, I find all my bikes shift from 1st to 2nd better at a mid-range RPM than up near the high end. Grinding sounds bad. I notice I can feel the teeth chatter when meshing a bit when shifting first to second on my brand new FJR. It's smooth when shifting around the mid-range.

How old/how many miles is/are on your bike?
 

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Might adjust the shifter linkage a bit, always made a difference on my bikes.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I have not tried adjusting the linkage, are you suggesting tightening to reduce the length? Just under10k on a 2014, about 600mi to next oil ch/using suz. oil.
 

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Vee's, both first and second generation, are known for a clunky 1-2 shift. And yes, they can "grind" as well as clunk. Not the teeth grinding, but the engagement dogs. Some are better than others. Keeping the clutch hydraulic system in perfect shape can help. Biggest improvement comes with making sure the shift lever is adjusted for your style and what boots you wear. Then practice "preloading" the lever before you shift. Make a quick, positive shift. They shift better at lower rpms, I used to upshift right away in traffic to stay away from the clunk. Make sure your rear wheel hub rubber cushions are in good shape. These go downhill with age just as much as mileage, so old hard rubber won't cushion well.
 

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Many Vee people have reported better shifting after a modification that puts the rear sprocket carrier deeper into the wheel hub. DL1000 Rear Wheel Spacer Exchange - AdventureTech, LLC.

Vee2 owners might want to check their sprocket alignment to see if that is also true for later models.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Realshelby thanks for the input and also everyone else. I am going to practice this preload technique and loo at my boot/lever positioning. I thought I was done with the clunk which I also had for 98k miles on the BMWGS.
 

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I thought so but your question made me check. The sprocket carrier spacer is different. My bad. I'll edit that post. Vee2 owners might want to check their sprocket alignment though.
 

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My 06 V was crunchy, did the spacer mod and put new rubbers in, new chain and sprockets, it helped, but it was still there. The chain is slightly on the loose side, aligned perfectly and it didn't matter if I short shifted or pre-loaded. Then I did the clutch mod from WERKS and it does not clunk or crunch at all. Not exaggerating, it's shifts very clean all the time. I'm sure with everything I did it all added up.
 
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I find the grinding gets worse as the chain slacks. When it is newly adjusted (i.e. tighter) the grinding is much less when upshifting from 1 to 2. But, since the chain cannot be too tight, I find I have to live with a little grinding. The bike is nearing 40k km and behaves the same as when new.
 

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It's a characteristic of this model. Either you can live with it or not. Our 1000 is terrible, both upshifting,1-2 or downshifting, 2-1. Suzuki says it's normal and they all do it. Our dealer says some are worse than others.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I found that by shifting out of first sooner and letting the second gear pull you up to the next speed, it is smooth and without grinding or clunking .
 
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