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Has anyone had this happened? I installed the peg lowering. Kit and now the shiffting seems a lot more notchy. I've adjusted the angle of the shifter arm a few times and it doesn't seem to make a difference.

Any ideas?

Dom
 

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I just installed Richland Ricks peg lowering kit last night, and I think that the shifting is smoother, easier.
BTW - my connecting linkage is perpendicular to the arm on the shift shaft, best mechanical advantage...





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My input would be to post a pic of the finished project so maybe we can spot something your not.
Mike
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I just installed Richland Ricks peg lowering kit last night, and I think that the shifting is smoother, easier.
BTW - my connecting linkage is perpendicular to the arm on the shift shaft, best mechanical advantage...





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Would you mind posting a pic of your set up.
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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Try lubing the joints under the rubber covers as well as the main arm pivot with chain lube. The pivot is best disassembled and greased. The repositioning does require taking the arm off the shaft and moving it one notch. That reduces the mechanical advantage a little.
 

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Try lubing the joints under the rubber covers as well as the main arm pivot with chain lube. The pivot is best disassembled and greased. The repositioning does require taking the arm off the shaft and moving it one notch. That reduces the mechanical advantage a little.
Do you mean remove the arm and apply grease to the splined shaft?
 

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Do you mean remove the arm and apply grease to the splined shaft?
No.
He means the shaft that the shift lever pivots on near the footpeg and the portions under the rubber caps on the intermediate piece between the shift shaft and the lever.
Lubing the splined portion will do nothing but catch dirt...


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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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Chain lube under rubber covers #28 and #31. Grease on the round, not threaded portion of #33 that carries #30 though chain lube helps if you don't remove #30. It helps if #29 and #27 are at right angles to each other at rest but that usually isn't possible with lowered pegs.

 

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Has anyone had this happened? I installed the peg lowering. Kit and now the shiffting seems a lot more notchy. I've adjusted the angle of the shifter arm a few times and it doesn't seem to make a difference.
It can definitely be adjusted and lubricated for smooth action. After you move the lever on the shaft, use the fine adjuster (29 on Pat's image) to dial it in.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Ok here is what my set up looks like..anything look off to you guys?

 

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GW is right, 90 deg not likely after mod

I just installed Rick's peg lowering kit a few days ago. I haven't ridden bike since, although my son did. He didn't say anything about shifting oddity, so I hope my shifting will be as before...OK.

I did take note of GW's comment regarding the angle between the shifter lever and the vertical orientated adjustment linkage (#27 and #29 in diagram). So I went out in shop and looked at my work. My #27 is almost perfectly LEVEL and the angle between #27 & #29 is obtuse (probable 100-105 degrees).

My foot peg (rubber part) is about 3/4" above the shift tab as seen by a level.

I will take a ride soon, and may adjust #29 if I think shifting is harder or not smooth like before.

Tnx to GW & tmgcee for tips !
 

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Discussion Starter #13
How do you remove 30 from 33? I don't see any screws or bolts. I don't want to mangle anything. Also any specific grease reconditions? I'd have to run out and buy some and I read in popular mechanics that not all greases are compatible with each other. Sorry if that's a basic question but I'm learning as I go.

Dom
 

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#38 retainer to remove #30

How do you remove 30 from 33? I don't see any screws or bolts. I don't want to mangle anything. Also any specific grease reconditions? I'd have to run out and buy some and I read in popular mechanics that not all greases are compatible with each other. Sorry if that's a basic question but I'm learning as I go.

Dom
According to parts diagram on GW's posting, it looks like #38 is removed, then #30 probably pulls outward...is my guess.
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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Right. 38 is a circlip. It is expanded and removed using circlip pliers for external clips. They come in different sizes and with bent or straight noses.



 

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I wouldn't ever use chain lube on #33. Chain lube gets sticky which'll just make things worse. Well worth the time to take off the shift lever, clean #33, then lube generously with grease. I then shifts like a hot welding torch through butter.

This is what I did on my old Kawi and what I did on the Vee when I first got it. Then I got rid of the whole linkage and bolted on a Touratech shift lever, which I like a lot better.
 

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Right. 38 is a circlip. It is expanded and removed using circlip pliers for external clips. They come in different sizes and with bent or straight noses.



I've heard reference to "circlip" a few times lately but never interested enough to look it up. Now I know it's what we call "snaprings" - and the tools to install/remove them,, snapring pliers of course.
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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I wouldn't ever use chain lube on #33. Chain lube gets sticky which'll just make things worse.
Greasing is best but grease is sticky too. Chain lube won't make things worse. It has a solvent carrier for penetration then the solvent evaporates and leaves a heavier lubricant behind.
 

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Clean the old grease off, then apply new grease.

I, have a small tube of 'waterproof bicycle grease' that I use for that sort of thing.

Check your 'dusty boots' email.
 
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