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Discussion Starter #1
Hi All,

Riding to work on, lost all power on the freeway.
(no loud bang, just massive drop), pulled over near off range and she stalls.
Starts again with difficulty, but will not idle and stalls again.
Eventually get home by holding the throttle wide open and idling at about 5-6K.
Let he cool down completely and now it will not start (turns over, tried but just cant do it..sounds noisier that usual)

Pull her partially apart, replace filter and plugs, checked rear valve clearance (OK), try to start again, eventually gets started, will not idle at first, but eventually does roughly, odd almost chuffing sound from exhaust (rear cylinder?). Stop and check boots and all other seals (seem OK), try start again..no luck (battery pretty low on charge I think)

No one thing I also noticed is that after turning on the ignition (fuel pump sounds), but before pressing the starter, if i twist the throttle I can hear almost a grinding/rough solenoid noise from the throttle bodies..In the 5 years I had her I do not think I have noticed it before.. (I do expect some noise as they adjust).
Bike has 68,800 Kms on the clock

cheers
rich
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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If the bike is a 2007 or later, you will hear stepper motor clicks when turning the throttle. A number of things fit that description. The first thing that occurred to me is water in the fuel. If you can jump it and get it running, however badly, see if both exhaust pipes, one for each cylinder, get hot.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks Greywolf!

Just got it started (lots of sooty smoke at first..running clear now), once hot it idles roughly, but seems to be smoothing out.

I have some injector cleaner in the tank now, so will run that through today.
Chuffing sound seems reduced.

Is there an easy way (without removing the radiator and coolant) of getting the front rocker cover off, so I can check valve clearances on the front?

Also the PAIR Reed cover was really carbon'd up...is that normal?
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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The carbon is not normal. It needs to be cleaned. It may be the result of the poor running. People have written it's possible to do a valve check with the radiator in place but I'd take it off. Of course it was about time for new coolant when I did mine. 2007 DL-650 Valve Check and Adjustment « Black Lab Adventures
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Just thought I would post an update,

Further testing has revealed no compression in the rear cylinder and oil all over the new plug (previous plug was carbon'd a lot so it did not show so easily).

So I am now tearing the head off to see the damage.
 

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Just thought I would post an update,

Further testing has revealed no compression in the rear cylinder and oil all over the new plug (previous plug was carbon'd a lot so it did not show so easily).

So I am now tearing the head off to see the damage.
Will be interested to hear what you find and how that ties in with the service history.

Hope your wallet doesn't get too sick in the process of getting her back on the road.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
dropped a valve, other valves a lot of char/carbon.
Picture attached for the interested

Cylinder is looking very clean, no scoring :thumbup: and only a little bit of oil/char on the top of the piston (probably from the ride home on one cylinder and the testing I did at home).

Best prices so far are
valve $55:55
stem seal $8:55
Head gasket $41:45

So cost will be about $105 (not including all the 8 x shims which I will do)

Checked front cylinder, compression pretty close to 175psi, so I think I will leave that one for another time.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I assumed it just cracked/split, looks chipped... but I have never seem a burnt valve before.

I will now replace both valves as the other one might be suspect anyway (looks discoloured).

add an extra $62 (small price to pay to not have to take it apart again for a few more years)
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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If it looks chipped, it probably contacted the piston. That's hard to do on one valve. The most likely thing that comes to mind is the valve stuck in the guide. You may need a new guide too.
 

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Could a piece of carbon on the valve seat keep it from fully closing and eventually burn it away like that?
I had an 80's vintage Ford Escort with a valve that looked similar after what might have been diluted antifreeze freezing in the head cooling ports causing it to burn.
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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It looks more like a break than a burn to me. Once a chip is gone, the exhaust acts like an oxyacetylene torch if there is enough compression for combustion.
 

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Glad its nothing too serious. Just out of interest did you check the valve clearances before stripping it down and if so what were they? How many k's since its last valve check?

I guess the new valve will need to be lapped in?

Good luck, hope its up and running soon.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
clearances on the inlets was way off, so I now think the valve cracked and it ran hot. it was due for a check anyway, but they sure moved a lot (last time they were within spec, but at the lower end of it).
decided to buy two new valves and replace the valve oil seals. I'll lap the seats as well.
so far $170 for the bits and another $80 for shims (8 of them) and some tools (micrometer and valve compression tool)

lesson learnt.. if valve clearances are getting tight...replace early rather than late.
 
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