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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
The spark plug replacement interval should be 20,000 mile for standard plugs over twice that for Iridium plugs. 2012+ 650s come stock with Iridium plugs.

The spec for the rear sprocket nuts is 43.5lb-ft or 60Nm. I disagree with it. People have stripped nuts and broken studs using it. The generic chart for 10mm hardened bolts says 36lb-ft or 50Nm. Rich Desmond of Sonic Springs uses 30lb-ft or 40Nm with no problems.

The spec on the front sprocket nut on the Vee is 83lb-ft or 115Nm. That seems fine. The spec on the exact same nut on the DL650 is 105lb-ft or 145Nm, which is way high.

In the same vein, the spec on the 8mm bolts that connect the engine mount hanger to the frame is 16.5lb-ft or 23Nm on the Vee which is a good value. The spec on the same bolts on the 650 is 25.5lb-ft or 35Nm, which has broken bolts and stripped frame threads.

Stainless steel nuts on SS engine mounts, the SS swingarm pivot and the SS rear axle have a tendency to gall. Use anti seize on the threads to prevent problems and reduce the torque to 80% of the spec to account for the lubrication effect. For example the 72.5lb-ft or 100Nm spec'd for the rear axle nut becomes 58lb-ft or 80Nm.

There is a misplaced connection dot in the fuse box of wiring diagrams I've seen for K4 and K5 DL1000s. The K3 was okay. I've put a green dot where the connection appears in the manual. That spot should be a crossover. The connection should be where I've added a red dot. (on the left for the colorblind). The common wire feed to those fuses should be the orange wire.



The 2012 and later DL650 wiring diagram at the tail light connector is wrong. It should show W/B-W/B and Br-Gr.

In the DL650 service manual the following error occurs.

"If the TP sensor output voltage is out of specification, turn the
fast idle adjusting screw and adjust the output voltage to
specification.
TP sensor output voltage: 1.21 V
(Red - B/Br)"

Actually, Red - B/Br is the input side. It will always read 4.5-5.5V. The output side is P/W - B/Br as shown on pages 4-30 and 9-50

In the service manual for the 650 regarding coolant capacity:

Reserve Approx. 250 ml
tank side (0.53 US/0.44 lmp qt)
Engine Approx. 1650 ml
side (3.49 US/2.90 lmp qt)

You see the problem? The US measures are over twice the metric measures.
250ml is actually 0.264 US quarts 0.220 Imp quarts
1650ml is actually 1.74 US quarts 1.45 Imp quarts

For the 1000

2200ml(2.3/1.9 US/Imperial oz)

Which are good numbers for quarts instead of ounces.

Just a tad under 2 us qts for both models will do it.

Oil capacity numbers also can be a little strange. For example, the Glee takes 100ml more without a filter, due to the heat exchanger behind the filter, than the Wee's 2300ml. However, it only takes 50ml more than the Wee's 2700ml including filter even though the filters are the same. The kicker is both are listed as 2.9qts with the filter. I just get close by measurement and top off using the glass.

On the DL650 the '07 and up addendum's periodic maintenance chart on page 13-11, the I for inspect for valve clearance is in the 11,000 mile column. Notice the spacing of the marks in the boxes are not uniform. The 11k box has both a dash indicating skip and an I indicating inspect while there is no mark in the 14.5k box. The interval is still 14.5k miles. The spacings on some other lines is also not uniform but the valve check is the only one so bad it changes boxes.

All the service manuals say the regulated voltage should be 14.0-15.5V. 13.4V-14.8V is a better range.

The horn switch breaks the ground/earth side of the horn wiring on 650s only, not the hot/live http://www.vstrom.info/Smf/index.php/topic,3541.0.html

The 2008 and later DL650s, including the 2012 and later models, have 400W charging systems, not 375W.

The 2012 and probably later 650 wiring diagram crosses colors at the tail light connector. It should read W/B goes to W/B for the brake light, B/W goes to B/W for ground and brown goes to gray for tail and license light..
 

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Greywolf, thank you very much for starting this thread.
It's an excellent idea, and has great potential.
Perhaps, overlapping with "official errors" being pointed out, it might be useful if contributors added in some handy "wrinkles" to make maintenance easier (wrinkles that are small, or don't quite fit into the general maintenance threads on the forum here).
As an example of that : you have mentioned that it is distinctly easier to re-fit the Wee's rear axle from the right [unlike the factory standard fitment ~ from the left].

But, since I am not really adding anything particularly useful to this thread here, please delete this post after a day or two, in order to keep the thread "clean".
.
 

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.As an example of that : you have mentioned that it is distinctly easier to re-fit the Wee's rear axle from the right [unlike the factory standard fitment ~ from the left].
Although some might like it, I didn't... specifically pushing with my left hand to tighten. Don't find it any more difficult to get the axle through left to right.
 

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Erm . . . Ozart, I haven't explained myself very well about the rear axle fitment. To expand somewhat :-

Initially, when removing the rear wheel to change the tyre, I would remove & replace the axle from the left [as fitted at factory, and per manual's diagram].
Always found it a hassle at reassembly to juggle together the wheel, sprocket, axle spacers and the brake component. Seemed to need three hands to get it all lined up & fitting correctly as I slid the axle through from the left.
Checking it at the end . . . well, half the time I found that my powerful wiggling had dislodged the brake torque arm from the boss on the swing arm. So, back to the start line again. Damnation.

Then, REVELATION ~ following Greywolf's suggestion to fit the axle from the right side, it all became much easier.
No need for three hands. No problem re-slotting the brake torque arm and keeping it in place [indeed, often I don't even remove it ~ just leave it in place, supported by a stub of not-quite-fully-withdrawn axle].

This whole from-the-right axle business is only a minor "wrinkle" (though saving me many wrinkles on the forehead).
And yes, it is only a rather small example of some "misleading factory advice", in a manner of speaking.

Yet you will note that there have been reports of Stromtroopers refitting the wheel/axle assembly, and then going for a ride and coming to grief at the first occasion of using the rear brake . . . because they had not observed that the brake torque arm had not re-seated correctly. And that is a safety problem which is not easy to identify at a quick & unsuspicious inspection after the refitting is [apparently] complete.
.
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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Discussion Starter #7
The Suzuki factory service manual is the only one available for the 2012.
 

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Thanks Midnullarbor, for clarifying, in case someone didn't understand.

If people are doing improper installations and actually riding, yes that's a safety concern. Hopefully they never do it again, or let someone else do it.

The 1st couple times installing the rear axle, alignment through the right side bits were quite fiddly. The last couple dozen times haven't been any problem. Guess I've been lucky so far and not had to start over.

I put it through right to left a couple times, which is easier, and probably saved 10 seconds. This positions the nut on the left.

I'm right handed and prefer the nut on the right, where I can pull to tighten and generally have more power and control over the loosening/tightening process. I found it awkward using my left hand working the nut, especially pushing to tighten.

Just stating my preference and why. If right to left is prefered, that's fine too.
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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Discussion Starter #9
The 2012 and later DL650 wiring diagram at the tail light connector is wrong. It should show W/B-W/B and Br-Gr.

First post updated.
 

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It appears that there is not much to be said for editing/correcting on this manual. I've found the same issue with my Nissan Titan's DVD manual. Some of it is problems related to translation. Some of it....well, I just don't know why the mistakes are so far off. Thanks for taking so much time to point out all these issues, Pat.
 

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My '05 came with the axel going in from the left.

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Greywolf, thank you very much for starting this thread.
It's an excellent idea, and has great potential.
Perhaps, overlapping with "official errors" being pointed out, it might be useful if contributors added in some handy "wrinkles" to make maintenance easier (wrinkles that are small, or don't quite fit into the general maintenance threads on the forum here).
As an example of that : you have mentioned that it is distinctly easier to re-fit the Wee's rear axle from the right [unlike the factory standard fitment ~ from the left].

But, since I am not really adding anything particularly useful to this thread here, please delete this post after a day or two, in order to keep the thread "clean".
.
The dealer could have changed it at the first sevice as it's easer to line up the brake caliper hoder with the wheel already up in place. I've changed the rear tire 10 times and it;d be a pain if the axel went in from the right. Mines always been in rom the left.
 

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New Manual Correction

I just purchased my first Wee, a 2009. Being OC regarding maintenance, the first thing I purchased was a brand new manual. Being a certified aircraft mechanic, I do everything by the book, torque values, assembly procedures, etc. Greywolf, the info you've presented is very helpful and appreciated. In going through the manual and making corrections, I did notice that Suzuki has corrected the erroneous wire color codes for the TP sensor. However, the torque values are still wrong as well as the coolant numbers. Hopefully, we'll see more corrections from Suzuki as the manual continues to print.

This is a great group. I've read nearly every maintenance/performance related thread. My monetary support will be forthcoming.

I've owned a number of other bikes including BMW's, Guzzi, and an ST1300. It looks like the Wee will be much more enjoyable to maintain.

Thanks again! :thumbup:
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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Discussion Starter #14
I just got a 2005 DL650, What would be the best Maint. manual for this Bike?
The factory service manual is the most comprehensive. Genuine Suzuki Manuals

Some people prefer the less comprehensive and possibly friendlier Haynes manual. http://www.amazon.com/Suzuki-V-Strom-SFV650-Gladius-Service/dp/0857336436/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1405524314&sr=8-1

Watch out for ebay and other sellers pushing online or CD versions of the factory manual. They are pirated. The factory manual only comes in paper. There are also paper pirated copies. They will have white dots in the cover instead of binder holes all the way through and will not have genuine book binding on the spine, but some cheap alternative.
 

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Possible Corrections on 2012 DL650A Manual

Suzuki DL650A Service Manual
99500-36220-03E

0B -16

Drive Chain Slack Adjustment

1) Support the motorcycle with a jack

… May suggest that the rear wheel is off the ground and not on a side stand … ?

0B12

Cooling System Inspection

Replace engine coolant (Coolant color: Green)

every 12 000 km (75 000 miles, 24 months)

… Likely a typo on the miles .. could be they meant 7 500 miles ...
 

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120,000 km is about 75,000 miles. Maybe they dropped a zero.

Coolant doesn't wear out. The corrosion inhibitors become depleted. 24 months is a good schedule for the ordinary coolant, and 5 years for long-life coolant. A simple test when you can get to the radiator cap is with a voltmeter. Put one probe into the coolant in the radiator neck, not touching metal. Put the other probe on the battery negative post, and read volts DC. 0.3 VDC or less shows that the corrosion inhibitors are still OK. Greater than 0.3 VDC shows that the inhibitors are gone and your system has become a galvanic cell--a poor battery--and some of the alloys are corroding.
 

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Service manuals for simpletons

So I got a 2014 650 and after 600 miles I'm getting to know it.
I plan on installing a new horn, replacing chain, bulbs, perhaps swapping primary sprocket and maybe changing turn signals. Who can recommend a paper based
manual....heavy on pictures that will help me out ?
My first order of business is tightening the chain...rear axle torque?

See the rear axle thread at http://www.stromtrooper.com/general-v-strom-discussion/23698-rear-axle-thread-galled.html GW

My next order is removing the plastics and my concern is the sequence for easy removal without damaging anything or losing any small fasteners that might be hiding....spring clips, ferrules, tiny nylon spacers all seem to be hiding on a lot of bodywork.
Recommendations please
Thank you
EDK
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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Discussion Starter #18

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Thanks for the quick rsvp. I suppose it's better to ask a stupid question than make a stupid mistake so, allow me:
The Haynes Manuall title suggests it covers up to 2013. My bike is 2014. Should this create a problem?
I do not imagine myself opening the engine but as mentioned...chain, brakes, possibly suspension, steering head bearings, lighting, lubing cables and moving connections ? Haynes sounds more like I can actually use it . Do you have an opinion ?
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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Discussion Starter #20
The 2012-2014 models are pretty much unchanged except for color. Your plans seems better suited to the Haynes.
 
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