[ImOldMan]

Even after a time sert installation, my plug was leaking. My last mechanic addressed that with some Teflon tape and told me he’d start pumping the oil out via the clutch cover from now on. that may work, but it’s not a fix.

I’d love to find a permanent solution (weld, ???). I’m in Southern California and this being a v strom, I’m willing to rack up some miles to get this done.

has anyone else had this fixed?

 

[PerazziMx14]

As they say a picture is worth a 1000 words.

 

[Jimding]

If there's enough material around the drain plug, and the threads are no too badly damaged (the crankcase isn't cracked, is it?) may be able to drill it out, tap it to a larger size, and use a larger drain plug. If you don't ride off-road, could perhaps drill and tap the drain plug, and either use a smaller plug or install a valve in it. Then clean the hole and JB-weld the original plug in.

 

[Brockie]

To get a more relevant answer/suggestion we would need to know where/why/how your drain plug is leaking.

 

[Charlie1982]

Someone can correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe the engine cases in the V-Stroms are made of magnesium, which might be dangerous to weld. Magnesium will burn pretty vigorously, once ignited.
If I am wrong and they are only aluminum, then welding shouldn't cause any issues like that.

 

[Brockie]

Aluminum. Magnesium is VERY expensive and exclusive. Honda RC30's and the like.

 

[PeteW]

A few threads on Advrider on this. Consensus there was Timesert was the best fix on a bike. NOT Helicoil. Most decent engineering shops should be able to do that and you can buy the kit and do it yourself if you want.

There are other options, in particular you can buy self tapping drain plugs from most autoparts stores which will cut their own thread one size up and leave you with the same sized plug but going into steel not aluminium. What they don't say - they are prone to backing out if/when you overtighten the plug and are VERY prone to cross threading when reinserted so you need to put them in very carefully then take them back out and use high strength locktite on the OUTER thread only that goes into the cases, put them back in very carefully and let it sit for a day before refilling.

It's a really common problem and not just on bikes so there are a lot of quite good known fixes.

 

[BackPacker]

If you're willing to drain the engine in the future by sucking the oil out via the clutch port, then you just need to plug the hole anyway you see possible. Personally I'd just put a blob of JB-Weld in the plug hole, maybe with some duct tape over it to stop it from dripping down while the JB-Weld is setting. You could also weld a patch over the hole.

If you still want to use the drain hole, I would first of all replace the normal drain plug with a drain plug that has an integrated valve. This way, once you've gotten the plug in and properly sealed, somehow, you don't ever have to undo the plug again. Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Stahlbus-Drain-Valve-M14x1-5x12mm-Steel/dp/B01AMXAVX0 Sealing the plug itself can then be done using teflon tape, helicoil, timesert or even JB Weld.

 

[RCinNC]

Those drain valves are cool...I've never seen them before. But they do threaten one of the fundamental activities of motorcyclists: arguing about whether you should re-use crush washers.

 

[BackPacker]

Nah. You can still discuss whether you should put a previously-used crush washer under your brand new drain-plug-with-valve. Or two for good measure.

Other than that, by looking at the Trooper Arena I think we've got a totally different thing going on right now, that seems to be the favourite activity now. (Trying to think of a punchline about comparing reusing crush washers to reusing presidents here...)

 

[scritch]

A modern materials fix might be something like JB Weld. I used to use a product called Marine Tex on my BSAs. I think the version I used is essentially the same as metal-filled JB Weld for aluminum. You could apply, drill and tap. However, I think I'd stick with an all-metal solution first, if possible.

 

[V-Strom Ry 2]

Aluminum. Magnesium is VERY expensive and exclusive. Honda RC30's and the like.

Valve covers on my '02 DL1000 were magnesium. Not sure about newer models or 650s. That's the only parts, though, AFAIK.

 

[ImOldMan]

As they say a picture is worth a 1000 words.

The picture wouldn't look any different than any other drai

To get a more relevant answer/suggestion we would need to know where/why/how your drain plug is leaking.

It's not leaking now. But previously it was a very slow drip, 1-2 every hour or so, that came down around the lock washer. I'm not sure what else I can say that would help. The leak is currently abated with teflon tape, but that's a band-aid and I'm looking for a permanent fix.

 

[ImOldMan]

If you still want to use the drain hole, I would first of all replace the normal drain plug with a drain plug that has an integrated valve. This way, once you've gotten the plug in and properly sealed, somehow, you don't ever have to undo the plug again. Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Stahlbus-Drain-Valve-M14x1-5x12mm-Steel/dp/B01AMXAVX0 Sealing the plug itself can then be done using teflon tape, helicoil, timesert or even JB Weld.

That drain plug looks like a solid solution. I'll see if my guy knows anything about installing them.

 

[Brockie]

As JB Weld is an undoable solution perhaps consider something like Amazon.com: PERMATEX ULTRA BLACK GASKET MAKER 3.35 OZ TUBE, Manufacturer: PERMATEX, Manufacturer Part Number: 82180-AD, Stock Photo - Actual parts may vary.: Automotive
Inspect the drain hole surface to ensure that no part of the previous repair is proud of the sealing surface. Also, the washer you are currently using should be a brass washer, and not a lock washer. Brass is relatively soft and spreads to seal against the flat surface around the hole.

 

[Motorpsychology]

Those drain valves are cool...I've never seen them before. But they do threaten one of the fundamental activities of motorcyclists: arguing about whether you should re-use crush washers.

I order this oil change package which includes a crush washer, whIch I replace every oil change. My '80 KZ750 has probably has had it replaced 3 or 4 times, because I never knew to replace them for the first 20+ years, and now only if I remember to pick one up when I get oil.
@ImOldMan, as for me, the teflon tape would be the permanent solution. Best of luck. I'm not familiar with Timecert and would consider a helicoil if the teflon tape should no longer work.

 

[RCinNC]

I never changed crush washers for probably my first 30 years of riding. After basically being called a motorcycle apostate on another forum, I bought a bag of them on Amazon. Now I change them....whenever I actually remember that I have a bag of them. Maybe I haven't encountered as much of a need for them, since I don't start reefing on the wrench when I'm tightening an oil drain bolt as if I'm trying to reinstall a rear axle .

 

[richw]

They make expanding rubber plugs, and probably an "o" ring plug as well, we are assuming there is a crush washer

 

[Vstroming]

I'd go with something like this. I've fixed many a car this way. It will cut its own threads and once it's In you never back it out. Just drain via the secondary plug built in. Plug within a plug.

Dorman 65229 AutoGrade Oil Drain Plug, Oil Drain Plugs - Amazon Canada

Dorman 65229 AutoGrade Oil Drain Plug in Oil Drain Plugs.

www.amazon.ca

 

[RCinNC]

Nah. You can still discuss whether you should put a previously-used crush washer under your brand new drain-plug-with-valve. Or two for good measure.

Other than that, by looking at the Trooper Arena I think we've got a totally different thing going on right now, that seems to be the favourite activity now. (Trying to think of a punchline about comparing reusing crush washers to reusing presidents here...)

I'll make sure to check those Trooper Arena arguments out, right after I'm done repeatedly slamming my hand in a car door.