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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just came back from one of my first rides and I can't turn the key to the lock position. Worst yet, the handle bar doesn't turn all the way to the end towards the left. It just blocks. tried different keys and nothing to do :(

Anyone have any idea what might of happened ??

Rob
 

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First, take a deep breath and start from scratch. It almost sounds like you might have engaged the steering lock with the bars not fully turned to the left and now their "locked out" instead of locked in.

Try to run the key through all of it's positions while rotating the handle bars back and forth several times and see if something frees up.

It's a pretty simple tried and true system, you've probably just got something out of sequence.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Trying to but the keys won't turn past the off position since the steering needs to be more turned and is blocked . Your Theory of being locked out seems to be the case though. I just don't want to force too much to the left and make things worse

Thanks for the response


Sent from my Motorcycle iPad app
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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The key can't turn to the lock position unless the handlebars are turned all the way left. Do not pressure the key. This has nothing to do with the key or the lock. It's all about the steering limit. Look at the bottom of the steering head to see what is preventing the steering from reaching the left lock position. Sometimes a bolt from the frame to fairing connection falls off and jams the steering.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
The key can't turn to the lock position unless the handlebars are turned all the way left. Do not pressure the key. This has nothing to do with the key or the lock. It's all about the steering limit. Look at the bottom of the steering head to see what is preventing the steering from reaching the left lock position. Sometimes a bolt from the frame to fairing connection falls off and jams the steering.
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Is it GreyWolf or Jedi Master ;). Thanks so much !! Looked as you said in daylight and immediately spotted the bolt stuck there ( A bolt that actually attaches the steering head) . . . Strange it came off and fell there !! Could of been dangerous since it really jammed the steering. Thanks again !! I was soo close to having it towed to the dealer !!
 

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That's a little scary, an important bolt coming off a new bike!

I think I'll give mine a thorough going over...

Glad you found it, it might be worth asking the dealer to give it a good going over (for free of course).
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
While on the subject, can someone let me know if all three bolt holes are in use. Just want to make sure I didn't lose 2 bolts. Looks like only the top and bottom bolts were used.
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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It's happened a few times. There are two identical bolts, one above the other. The big hole in front of them is a lightening hole. Use a little blue Loctite on the bolt when putting it back in. Take the other one out and Loctite it too.
 

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I can't be the only one who is a little freaked out by greywolf getting that right on the first try. :jawdrop:
 

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Wow...yea, I'm a skeptic and I gotta say that's freakin' crazy. Greywolf is amazing......


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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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I think this is the third time I've given this advice after I saw the first report of it happening. In each case, people thought I had a crystal ball. It just happens that those bolts carry a lot of stress from the weight of the fairing extending far forward and trying to turn the bolts on every bump. If one works out, it falls down on the shelf below and interferes with the steering. The other one gets loose in a hurry if the first one falls out on the road and gets lost and the fairing starts bouncing around. It's a weak point in the design. The pivot on the shift lever is another case. Suzuki started putting thread locker on the shift lever pivot in later years but not the fairing mount bolts apparently.
 

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That's still pretty darned impressive Greywolf. Aside from those two points of "weakness", are there any others you're aware of that a new Wee owner should pay attention to? I'm picking up my 2012 Adv tomorrow and would love to know what to look for. I've already got the clips holding the barrel locks in place on the side cases. Anything else?
 

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Torque specs come to mind speaking of bolts. The 8mm shank bolts that hold the top engine mounts to the frame which are also used for crash guard mounting are listed as needing 25.5lb-ft. That's an error which has been repeated ever since the first Wee came out in 2004. 16.5lb-ft is the correct value. 25.5lb-ft is the value for 10mm bolts. Those bolts have also received thread locker in later years so heat helps get them out. Leave them alone on a stock bike but be aware if installing crash guards.

Rear axle nuts like to gall. They and the swingarm pivot nut are listed at 72.5lb-ft. It's better to coat their threads with anti-seize and torque to 58lb-ft to account for the lubrication effect.

The torque spec on the rear sprocket bolt 43.5lb-ft. 36lb-ft is plenty, the generic spec for that bolt size and hardness and the manual's spec has caused some broken studs.

Dealers put the front wheels on the bikes when uncrating them. Make sure the caliper bolts are torqued to 28lb-ft.
 

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Torque specs come to mind speaking of bolts. The 8mm shank bolts that hold the top engine mounts to the frame which are also used for crash guard mounting are listed as needing 25.5lb-ft. That's an error which has been repeated ever since the first Wee came out in 2004. 16.5lb-ft is the correct value. 25.5lb-ft is the value for 10mm bolts. Those bolts have also received thread locker in later years so heat helps get them out. Leave them alone on a stock bike but be aware if installing crash guards.

Rear axle nuts like to gall. They and the swingarm pivot nut are listed at 72.5lb-ft. It's better to coat their threads with anti-seize and torque to 58lb-ft to account for the lubrication effect.

The torque spec on the rear sprocket bolt 43.5lb-ft. 36lb-ft is plenty, the generic spec for that bolt size and hardness and the manual's spec has caused some broken studs.

Dealers put the front wheels on the bikes when uncrating them. Make sure the caliper bolts are torqued to 28lb-ft.

Greywolf,

This is extremely valuable info. Thank you for sharing your knowledge. I think I am going to go over everything you listed just as a caution and locktite areas of concern. And for that matter any fastener that might require a drop of locktite.
 

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I noticed when I installed my OEM crash bars, the original bolts had thread locker on them from the factory. The crash bars came with new, longer, bolts and I put Loctite on all the bolt threads. I'll check the fairing bolts and put Loctite on them.

Thanks, this is good to know.:thumbup:


Update: Here's a better picture of the (12mm socket) bolt heads.



You can get to them easier from the bottom, under the fairing. Mine wouldn't budge without a lot of force, so I left them alone. I'll check on them occasionally.
 

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Torque specs come to mind speaking of bolts. The 8mm shank bolts that hold the top engine mounts to the frame which are also used for crash guard mounting are listed as needing 25.5lb-ft. That's an error which has been repeated ever since the first Wee came out in 2004. 16.5lb-ft is the correct value. 25.5lb-ft is the value for 10mm bolts. Those bolts have also received thread locker in later years so heat helps get them out. Leave them alone on a stock bike but be aware if installing crash guards.]



I checked the instructions that came with the ADV crash guards that I installed instead of the dealer. Sure enough it shows 25.5 for the bolt.

So what is the ft/lbs for the nut and large rod going through the motor that the other end of the crash guard attaches by?
 
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