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Discussion Starter #1
I guess it is time to replace the o-rings on the Givi engine guards. Yesterday, every time I hit 5K I got this berserk wind chime buzz.

Has anyone tried plugs of silicone or something to reduce the vibration? These o-rings don't seem to last very long.
 

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I guess it is time to replace the o-rings on the Givi engine guards. Yesterday, every time I hit 5K I got this berserk wind chime buzz.

Has anyone tried plugs of silicone or something to reduce the vibration? These o-rings don't seem to last very long.
Glad you posted this. I have the same issue with my 2016 650 and Givi engine guards. That buzzing is so annoying and the only issue I have with the bike. Hoping someone has a simple long term solution.

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Took about 15 minutes to replace the o-rings. When this set goes I'm thinking of slathering the connecting pin with silicon sealant as well. See if that lasts longer.
 

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Took about 15 minutes to replace the o-rings. When this set goes I'm thinking of slathering the connecting pin with silicon sealant as well. See if that lasts longer.
I took me 3 attempts to achieve a lasting solution. First, I used rubber washers. They were a bit thicker than the O-rings. Second, I wrapped the connecting pin with wire so it wouldn't have room to vibrate. Last, I wrapped the wire & pin with electrical tape and a light coat of oil. I did this so it would slide into the racks easier. This has worked for about a year and half.

Best regards,
 

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Earlier this afternoon I removed the bolt assembly and added a rubber washer to one side of the casing, wasn't enough room on both sides. I then put a rubber washer between the washer and outside casing and used blue locktite on the bolt. That eliminated the noise. Will see how long it lasts. One of the things I love about the Vstrom is how little buzzing it has compared to the 2008 Versys(s) I've had. Thanks for the inputs and thread.

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I had a Weld86 skid plate and put a flat metal brace from it to the crossbar near that joint using a metal cable clamp to attach to the bar. By changing the resonant frequency of the crash bar "system", this moved the rpm of the buzzing and also greatly reduced the intensity. May or may not work with other skid plates.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
When I pulled the one side off, the connecting pin showed bare metal areas right by the center ring, perhaps 1/8" square so I assume the noise came from that area (where the o-rings had been. My replacements are thicker than the stock ones. We'll just have to see how long they last.
 

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I had a Weld86 skid plate and put a flat metal brace from it to the crossbar near that joint using a metal cable clamp to attach to the bar. By changing the resonant frequency of the crash bar "system", this moved the rpm of the buzzing and also greatly reduced the intensity. May or may not work with other skid plates.
I'd like to see a pict of what you did. I notice a slight buzz at 5k also but it is very mild and maybe has always been there on my swmotech bars but when i ran bags on the crash bars it made it more intense so I got rid of the bags. There are endless threads on this stuff especially coming form klr land. I agree it is a frequency thing and can be modified.

Having the correct torque values can have a big affect on this.
 

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Engine guard brace

Here is a pic of the bracket I installed. I also had inner tube where the pieces join. These are the stock guards - it just occurred to me the Givi may be completely different.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Well, it is back together and I failed to take pictures. The bolt at the front that cinches the two sides together has a fixed spacer in the middle so what I think happens is when the o-rings fail there is enough of a gap for the tubes to vibrate at the edge where they meet the pin.

DL650 V-Strom '12-16' : TN3101 ENGINE GUARDS

Item 3 on the parts list is what they call the nipple (not pin).
 

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The bolt at the front that cinches the two sides together has a fixed spacer in the middle so what I think happens is when the o-rings fail there is enough of a gap for the tubes to vibrate at the edge where they meet the pin.
Yep. I've just got back on a '12 650 and the one I bought came with Givi bars... and an annoying buzz. I pulled them apart on Sunday to fix them for good, some electrical tape on the nipple (diagnostic step) had quietened it so I thought it was the source.

I found some O-rings for that and put it all back together. Then bumped the bars by accident and the spacer on the cinch bolt rattled. It wasn't pulled closed anymore because of the extra thickness of the rings I put on the nipple. So i slapped some o-rings on the cinch bolt, between the spacer and the flange on the bar and it all seems good now.

So it seems you need to make all the mating surfaces rubber and squishy. Or delete the spacer. I'm taking the squishy rubber route and will tighten that bolt if/when the o-rings wear and it starts buzzing again.
 
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