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I have a Corbin seat, and frequently use other pads to add height, but still would like to ease my knees, especially the left one. I know that a highway peg will help, but I generally don't like them. So, I will be lowering my pegs soon. My search shows Motorcyclelarry.com has a ~$60 lowering kit. There is another setup for ~$170 and the Buell XB pegs, which set about 1" lower than stock strom pegs.


Who has firsthand experience with any of the above or other methods of lowering pegs?
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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I haven't been happy with any of them. The brake lever also needs to be lowered and that is not addressed. Having the new pegs more outboard than the stockers required pigeon toed actuation too. Often, the pegs are also more forward which also causes problems. Then there is the problem of ground clearance. Really tall riders can benefit by having the seat built up. What looked most promising to me was taking the stock peg brackets off and making extensions between the frame and bracket along with the brake lever connection to the pushrod. Raising links to get ground clearance back for tall riders may be involved too. I've been most happy just moving my feet to the sliders and passenger pegs for short amounts of time and standing on the pegs occasionally.
 

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I have a Corbin seat, and frequently use other pads to add height, but still would like to ease my knees, especially the left one. I know that a highway peg will help, but I generally don't like them. So, I will be lowering my pegs soon. My search shows Motorcyclelarry.com has a ~$60 lowering kit. There is another setup for ~$170 and the Buell XB pegs, which set about 1" lower than stock strom pegs.


Who has firsthand experience with any of the above or other methods of lowering pegs?
I've never been a huge fan of highway pegs either, but I put some on the Pat Walsh crash bars before my Alaska trip and was really happy with them.
 

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Today my peg lowering brackets from motorcyclelarry.com came in the mail. Took abou ten minutes to install and I just now got back from a test ride of about 30 miles. For me (6 foot, 1 inch) my knees were more comfortable and my weight was more distributed along my upper thighs and not just on my aging ass. I will have to adjust the brake pedal down just a little bit. So far though I'm happy with them.
 

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I use the motorcyclelarry brackets as well. My right knee has a few problems and I needed the increased distance from the seat to pegs. I also have the gel seat for a taller seat.
The shifter is easy enough to adjust by moving the arm on the shaft a notch or two. The brake is a little more envolved. I like them but, the holes are not tight to the pins and they are starting to sag forward and down a bit.
 

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My search shows Motorcyclelarry.com has a ~$60 lowering kit. There is another setup for ~$170 and the Buell XB pegs, which set about 1" lower than stock strom pegs.

Who has firsthand experience with any of the above or other methods of lowering pegs?
I have Motorcyclelarry lowering kits on both my V1000 and my ST1300. They realy help out on both bikes especially the ST with my bad knees.

In lowering an inch on the ST I now drag the foot pegs in all my deep corners. Somewhat scary. I drag my toes, yep my toes attached to my feet, in almost all the corners on the ST, so I have to make a mental note to keep up on the balls of my feet in the twisties.

They seem to work great on the V1000 until I dropped it. I was working on it and I had it neutral. The bike rolled forward after getting off and the kickstand collapsed and the bike went down on the left side, almost squishing my dog; I aint never seen that dog move so fast! :eek: I notice I broke the turn indicator and sustained a couple of scratches. Later while riding, I noticed that my foot peg were bent and was angled in towards the front. I got back and got down to inspect and found that the foot peg perch that also holds the pivot for the shifter had bent and cracked because the lowering kit didn't allow enough clearance on the tip over and acted as lever putting stress on the perch it self.

I have gone down a bunch of times on dirt bikes. Always the pegs get bent to the rear and the perches never broke because the frames are steel. On the other hand, the perch on the V1000 is cast aluminum the cheapest metal you can manufacture with, no shock there. Because of the mass extra of the lowing kit, this keeps the peg form folding up properly and allowing the clearance needed so there would not be any stress on the perch. I think Suzuki designed the perches correctly, the mistake of adding of the lowering kit cost me another $62 for a new perch and the knowledge that if one of these things break out there I'm S#!T out of luck, especially for me, since I have a two day turn around on parts assuming the parts are in stock in LA.

I have removed the lowering kits from both bikes and I am tying to learn to live with the cramped knees. I made this decision because there is no replaceable perch on the ST because the footrest perches are cast directly into the frame. :huh:
 

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not very quiet
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I bent a stock peg and balked at the high priced replacement. I tried the buell pegs and was not satisfied. The pivot pin hole is larger so I had to cut tubes to fill the void. They step outward and down, so I had the pigeon toe issue that Greywolf mentioned. I had to adjust both shifter and brake lever downward. The shifter was fine, but when I adjusted the brake pushrod, I inadvertently engaged the switch. I was riding almost all day with the brake lights stuck on before my brother pointed it out. I did like the more relaxed leg position though, and my legs are not long. Eventually I bit the bullet and got a stock replacement.
 

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I have the buell uly pegs. I though they are great, lower and a better tilt. Easy to install, and I didn't have any trouble adjusting the brake and shift levers either.
 
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