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Any hints, tips tricks etc. for getting staples back in the DL650 seat pan after removing and replacing the seat cover?

I have two staple guns, both of which drive staples cleanly into wood, straight and all the way in so they are flush with the surface. Never give me any problems with normal home repair stuff. However neither of them will drive staples cleanly into the seat pan. They typically only go in a few mm and often bend. They're decent quality staples and a decent quality (manual) staple gun. The seat pan material is just too hard I guess.

Do you need something electric powered or "super-pro" quality to drive staples cleanly into the seat pan? Do they make super strong, super sharp staples for applications like this or do people just use the ordinary staples you can get from Home Depot?

I've recovered seats on other bikes and run into similar problems before. Didn't find a solution then either. What am I doing wrong!
 

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I've done it the way you're trying with success, but the best success I've had was finding a friendly local upholstery guy that used his pneumatic gun, took all of about a minute, and he made sure the folds were nice and tight as well. :thumbup:
 

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BobA,

electrical staple gun is a must in my book - any cheap one will do - when removing the staples - take note of how long they are and buy the same.

make sure u push the gun right against the seat pan when stapling. U may have to put a staple properly locate the cover first (against the middle of the seat pan is probably good).

the job always takes me longer than i thought to do it properly.
 

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A hand stapler will do it, but it has to be one that takes small staples.

The smaller front area of the staple means that you can get enough force with a hand stapler.

Electric or pneumatic stapler will be easier of course, but my current seat was done with a Bostitch Tackler.

Pete
 

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+1 to the hand stapler (the kind you can unfold in order to staple into a wall or such).

I've recovered a couple of seats, and the miniature hand stapler I carry in my pencil case has always done the job adequately.

Make sure to punch the staples in at an angle.
 

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Electric or pneumatic stapler will be easier of course, but my current seat was done with a Bostitch Tackler.
I've used a manual Bostitch gun to do all my seats. Use 1/4" staples, put the bit you are stapling against something hard so it can't spring back against the strike pressure, press the gun firmly in and bang. I go around the staples with a small tack hammer afterwards.
 

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staples

any time i work on my seats i use 3/8" long screws. just be careful not to over tighten. also make sure you don't install screws where you might feel the point under the cover. makes minor adjustments easy.
 

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seat cover staples

+1 for taking set to upholsterer. They have the right equipment, is inexpensive and just takes a few minutes. This way the job will be done correctly the first time. :thumbup:
 

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i suppose i didnt have a stapler of any sort - so i went out and bought a electric stapler - cost me $20 for local Kmart store (must be even cheaper in the US). makes the job a lot easier.

i have since used on another "projects" - it's funny how when u have the tool, all the interesting jobs suddenly appear out of nowhere!
 

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Greetings lads - trying my best to reupholster my wee seat, but I've been having a hell of a time getting the staples to penetrate the plastic shell.. Any tips yall got?

I'm using T50 staples at 1/4" length and went out and bought an electric staple gun just for this project, but when i shoot the shell the staples do not really penetrate more than 1/16" if that. Sometimes the staples bend sideways and the "legs" break off right where the bend of the staple wire is. I notice this most when I've got the shell securely braced against a sturdy work table and I;m bearing down on the gun itself with as much pressure as i can.
 

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It could be your gun, I've done quite a few bike seats without trouble.

I have one electric and one 18v battery gun and both penetrate without a problem.

Have never been able to get a manual gun to work.

I will recommend stainless steel staples to prevent rust in the future.
 

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Similar though I did get a hand stapler to work but used very narrow staples and a nail punch to seat the few that didn't go all the way in.
Use a pneumatic long nose stapler now and it seldom fails even with indifferent backing of the work.
 

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I bought a pneumatic from Harbor Freight, it was pretty cheap, and works well. Assuming you have a compressor...
 
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I have done mine with a arrow hand stapler
Some bent over but most worked as should
I also used s.s. staples may e 3/8" if I remember correctly


Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
 

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Someone on here mentioned using "chisel point" staples in a hand stapler. might be worth looking into if doing a staple job. and see if you can get the "chisel point" staples in stainless steel.
 

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Oho, here's what I discovered: the 'standard' chisel-point Arrow T50 staples DON'T WORK! They are too bulky to penetrate the plastic seat shell material. Instead I had good success using the thinner wire Arrow JT21 staples - I used a mechanical staple gun with these, and sometimes the staple would not go in properly, but those ones could be tapped into place with a hammer.

In summary:

DO NOT Use T50 Chisel-Point staples

Instead USE JT21 staples 1/4" length!
 

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I just went to ebay. you can get chisel point staples in standard or narrow staples. so if your narrow staples were not quite good enough perhaps chisel point narrow staples would be what you need. there is a learning curve to using a hand stapler well.
 

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I used two different electric staplers without much luck. I then used a pneumatic stapler and it worked great. Same staples, just needed more power to drive them in.
 

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