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I'm amazed that I turned up zero results when I entered "scraping pegs" in the search function! I have had my Wee for about two months. I have yet to scrape a peg and am amazed at how low it gets without scraping. Tonight I got on the freeway on a very familiar ramp that has a nice, slightly off camber 180 degree turn. I got lower today than ever, but still without scraping. My question is, what happens when you scrape? Is there anything solid that hits also or is it just the peg feeler? Also, if it's just the peg feeler, what hits next, and how soon after the feeler hits? Lastly, on a good, smooth asphalt surface, is there much of a margin of traction after the peg scrapes? BTW, I have a Battlewing rear tire that's almost ready to be changed and Trailwing front with about 1/2 the tread left (both soon to be changed to Anakee 3s). Thanks for any advice you guys can give. I'm just trying to get a feel for the limits of this thing without crashing.
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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You used the crippled search function. "Pegs" is too short for the index. Use the Google Custom search box instead ro do a Google search on

scraping pegs site:stromtrooper.com
 

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I've scraped the foot pegs on both the left and right side. The pegs do fold but it's still a bit unnerving. I didn't think I was going all that fast for the conditions but the bike was heeled over. Oh, the tires are worn pretty much to the edge in the rear anyway. The fronts never seem to get wear all the way to the edge.
 

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Kind of the same story here. I scraped the pegs on the left, once. I didn't realize that I was swooping that low either. All I remember is my left footpeg was gone (folded up), my boot was dragging the ground and my centerstand was scraping the pavement. Kind of neat in retrospect but unnerving since I wasn't expecting it...:beatnik:
 

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Usually your boot scrapes soon before or soon after the peg feelers scrape and the pegs begin to fold up. The remaining traction greatly depends on the road surface condition. If the pavement is clean and dry you still have traction to complete your turn. (If we believe we have traction we will have more traction--because it is usually there and most of us don't use it. If we don't believe in our traction we'll do something insane like chop the throttle and be in real trouble.)

If you are a pavement-only rider, consider Michelin Pilot Road 3 or Bridgestone BattleAx BT-023. The PR3 might have better wet traction. Both offer good tread life.

How about a set of sliders. Put the swing arm slider in place of the passenger pegs for more protection.
 

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My question is, what happens when you scrape?
It depends on how hard you hit and your reaction to it. But hopefully, nothing. The feelers are there to give you warning to knock it off and don't go any further. Going further means low-siding


Is there anything solid that hits also or is it just the peg feeler?
This also depends, I use to have a sidestand foot bolted on which I had to remove it because it was scrapping long before the peg feeler would hit. Also center stands, Luggage or other low and wide farkles can potentially hit. It also depends on the surface itself... is there a dip in the apex? does the elevation change mid turn? these things can cause you to scrape when if the pavement were flat and in good condition they would not.

Lastly, on a good, smooth asphalt surface, is there much of a margin of traction after the peg scrapes?
Again on the it depends... depends on tire type/brand/size. My current street tire rear is a 140 Tourance, the tire before that was a 170. The 170 had way more room to lean in on it than the 140. but like Goldie Locks, the 170 was too big for my taste, the 140 is too small and the 150 is jussssssssst right. But my next set of street tires will be a purely sport touring tire, no dual sport.

Now my off-pavement tires are knobbies and I don't even want to try to scrape pegs with those tires. They are sketchy enough the way it is on pavement.
 

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Scrapping hard parts is not only about speed but has a lot to do with body position too. If you have the right body position you will lean your body into the turn and even hang a bit at higher speeds, that will prevent your bike from leaning too far down.

Or you can turn in slow with a poor body position and scrape your pegs very easily.

Maintaining a proper body position not only allows you to keep the bike more upright during the turn, it also helps you keep your concentration and take the corners more safely.
 

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Guys like Danny Pedroza drag their freaking elbows. I ain't leaving the seat to do that!
As far as dragging one's boot, I usually put the ball of the foot on the pegs to get my foots out of the way. I've watched the guy ahead have his feet spayed out from the pegs. Just seems wrong to me. I've been guilty of grinding rubber off my boots though!
 

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I fail to see how speed has ANYTHING to do with scraping/how far you can lean
Don't exaggerate my grumpy friend, speed has lots to do with the bike leaning and that's not even under discussion. If you deny that you're either a trolling idiot or just stupidly blind.

A proper body position can help you prevent the bike from leading too much and keep a safe clearance margin, though.



Sent from my left shoe using the Motorcycle app
 

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My size 13W's scrape the outside edge before the peg feeler on my Vee. I've only scrapped my boots so far. I've been pleasantly surprised by it's road manners. I have an SW-Motech center stand and I haven't scraped it yet. On both my 81 GS1100E and 91 GSX1100G my centerstand was always scraping.
 

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Don't exaggerate my grumpy friend, speed has lots to do with the bike leaning and that's not even under discussion. If you deny that you're either a trolling idiot or just stupidly blind.
That seems odd, I can lean and scrape at a very low speed if I want and I can go pretty fast and not scrape. I thought it had to with how far you leaned over and not how fast you are going.

How far you lean over for any given speed and radius has more to do with your body position.
 

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My morning commute always involves a right hand corner that leads to an uphill curve - I always come into it in third gear, and accellerate into the uphill portion. I've occasionally dragged my right footpeg. After I installed some Fullbore M40/41 tires, I've not managed to drag my footpeg in that same corner, even at the same speed/angle. The only thing I can say is that the tire has a higher relative profile than my old Battlewings, giving me just a little bit more clearance due to having a higher profile tire.
 

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That seems odd, I can lean and scrape at a very low speed if I want and I can go pretty fast and not scrape. I thought it had to with how far you leaned over and not how fast you are going.

How far you lean over for any given speed and radius has more to do with your body position.
You did not quote the second part of my post, where I state that with your body position you can control much of the angle of the lean... but only so much.
Yes, you can turn in slow and counter-lean (pushing your bike down) or go fast and hang (pushing your bike up), but the faster you go, something's gotta lean more and more, be it your body or the bike... or both. Otherwise you totally loose your center of gravity and you run wide.

You cannot separate speed and lean angle in the equation.


I'm off... I have some leaning to do.
 

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The only thing I have scraped is the outside of my boots size 13. My BT023's are devoid of any chicken strips. I wonder if weight and/or preload settings have anything to do with it.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
If you are a pavement-only rider, consider Michelin Pilot Road 3

I looked into the Pilot Road 3 but he had only the Pilot Road 3 Trail.Are they the same tire?
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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The PR3 Trail is still a street tire. It is the one you want. It is designed for the big trailies like the Stroms and GS Beemers. It has a wider center harder rubber section than the sport bike tires.
 

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Step 1: Install a set of Richland Rick's foot peg lowering brackets
Step 2: Reduce all suspension pre-load to minimum
Step 3: Drink beer until you weigh as much as a small car
Step 4: Don't adjust your body position at all when cornering

If you follow my plan, you can scrape your pegs all you like, trust me.
 
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