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Discussion Starter #1
Hello all: Installed my new Scott's stabilizer yesterday on my Vee. Installation went very smooth.

Reading through the manual however leads me a one concern. With my bike on the center stand and the front wheel pointing straight the control arm of the stabilizer is not perfectly aligned, it points off left by a few degrees.

My first thought was the base plate was out of alignment. I check the alignment of the base plate and as far as I can tell it is aligned properly too. During the install I had to realign it once I fit the new bolt in place (after setting the four gap screws).

Is this a problem? I have no interference issues and the wheel turns freely lock to lock.:confused:
 
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This is very common, and is not a problem as long as the "sweep" of the handlebars is not limited.

I also had the same problem, but found a solution, and called Scott's to made sure it wouldn't be a problem.

I rotated the Tower Pin Bracket a little counterclockwise, re test fitted the Stabilizer, and all was straight.

Just make sure the Tower Pin itself moves freely in it's slot and you're good to go.

Check out the pictures on this link, and you can see what I mean.

BTD.

http://www.stromtrooper.com/forums/showthread.php?t=22448
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Hey: Thanks for the help. I think I will leave well enough alone but may drop Scott's a line. I believe the frame support is the issue. If you were to drop one side of the gap screws while elevating the others you should be able to compensate for the misalignment. That part fits very loose until you get that first bolt in place. I can easily see how you could tilt the part during the setting of the gap screws.
 
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Yes, that part IS kinda tricky, but the best solution I found was to install the Tower Pin Frame Support...but I didn't screw down the four corner set screws until I tightened the single bolt that holds the support in place. Basically I test fitted everything, removed the stock gas tank, then set the set screws.

You may want to call Scott's, but I think you want the Frame Support to be level...side to side. Rotating it still keeps it level.

Let me know if you come up with a better solution.

BTD.
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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That's what I did. The set screws were adjusted last to make sure everything was centered. Then a little thread locker on the set screws to wick in and lock things up finished the job. I wonder if people having problems are getting the block seated on the frame boss. The boss is often cast so it doesn't line up perfectly which usually doesn't matter as all frame connections are machined after casting. I had to file the circumference of the boss a bit to get clearance so the Scotts part would sit down fully.
 
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Mine slid down no problem, and +1 on the thread locker on all bolts.
The main thing is that the tower pin "floats", and is pretty close to the center of the link arm cut out.

Greywolf, have you changed your "high speed" settings?
Scott's says it's set from the factory, and only adjust after riding...if needed.

Also, what "low speed" setting do you run, and do you change this setting depending on the type of riding your doing? Twisties, full loaded luggage, freeway, two up??
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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I just leave it stock. I haven't had anything happen to make me want to change a setting.
 

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Haha, I made him change his sig line!

Err.. sorry Pat. I'll crawl back into my hole now that the weather is warming up.

-GW
 

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I got mine installed yesterday and I can tell its working. Splitting lanes today, it was a lot easier to hold my line right over the lane marker bumps. Normally the bars will twist and put you on a line on either side of the bumps. But with the Scotts I was able to ride them, I cant wait to hit some sand and really give it a test.
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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Haha, I made him change his sig line!

Err.. sorry Pat. I'll crawl back into my hole now that the weather is warming up.

-GW
You didn't. Hammertime did. You started helping him post pictures and I finished. He didn't realize we were different.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
That's what I did. The set screws were adjusted last to make sure everything was centered. Then a little thread locker on the set screws to wick in and lock things up finished the job. I wonder if people having problems are getting the block seated on the frame boss. The boss is often cast so it doesn't line up perfectly which usually doesn't matter as all frame connections are machined after casting. I had to file the circumference of the boss a bit to get clearance so the Scotts part would sit down fully.
In my reading of the instructions, Scott's wants you to:
1. fully tighten the top bolt
2. adjust four set screws to 1/8 turn past contact
3. remove top bolt, place tank support frame on top of block and then install the three bolts.

Given the above, if the tightened top bolt results in the block not being level, then setting the set screws will keep it that way.
 

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Greywolf, have you changed your "high speed" settings?
Scott's says it's set from the factory, and only adjust after riding...if needed.

Also, what "low speed" setting do you run, and do you change this setting depending on the type of riding your doing? Twisties, full loaded luggage, freeway, two up??
I change my low speed setting when I ride on dirt. On the street, I set it at one full turn (8 clicks) out from full soft. IIRC, that's the factory setting. The bike is stable enough that it doesn't really need a stabilizer on the street, and that's enough to mask pucker moments without being obtrusive. For dirt, I turn it up a turn and a quarter (6 clicks down from full hard). It helps the bike track straighter in sand, but at the expense of slowing the steering a bit. I find that's as high as it can go before it starts making the steering heavy.

I haven't changed the high-speed setting. I've been meaning to try experimenting with it on dirt, I suspect it will make the bike more stable over holes and ruts. But I always forget to bring a screwdriver with me so I haven't gotten around to it.
 
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