StromTrooper banner

1 - 15 of 15 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
615 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
What are the different options, costs and the wattage saved for headlight and taillight mods?

I'd like to save 25-50 watts for accessories. 60 watts would be awesome.

The headlights and running portion of the taillights are always on. Reducing the current to those items would free capacity for accessories. What are the different ways to reduce the current to those lights? What are the costs? What is the wattage saved?

- - LED taillights (for the always on part of the taillighting)
- - HID Headlights
- - What are the ways to disable one headlight, pulling a headlight connector, a switch? (would that work for HID lights too?)
- - Are there any ways to turn down the current to one or both headlights (would that work for HID's too?)

Thanks
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
566 Posts
I use an LED tail light, I bought it on eBay mainly because I wanted it clear to match my turn signals. The quality is very good in my opionion but I'm not sure how much juice it saves. I can post a pic of it if you like.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
615 Posts
Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Eastern Beaver has a wiring kit that allows you to turn off one low beam headlight to save a bit of juice. They say it'll save you 55 watts.

http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Products/VStrom/vstrom.html#headlightcutadaptor
Now I have my solution ideas. Great. I'll get one of those kits to switch the headlight off when I go full power with accessories. (I'm not crazy about pulling a headlight connector.) The cost is low and the savings is 55 W, just what I'd need. And I estimate from a post by Gravehunter 12 watts are saved from changing to rear LED running lights and license plate light.

My situation: 2 Gerbing Jackets, 77 watts max. 154 watts total. The Wee has 100-125 Watts capacity for accessories. One headlight less makes 155-180 available. Rear LED lights save 12 watts. Grand total 177-192 Watts full capacity for accessories.

That should work fine for 2 jackets, a GPS and maybe an intercom. I don't expect to be able to save any more watts, there's nothing left to modify that is on all the time unless I change the 1 remainig always on headlight to HID. Don't see any reason to do that.

Thanks Wingspan, Roger123 and Gravehunter for the info.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
555 Posts
BTW, you can just replace the tail/stop light bulbs with LED bulbs without replacing the whole assembly. The bulbs are cheap enough and work real well.

FWIW, get the red colored LEDs, they somehow combine with the red tinted lens and are brighter than if you buy a white colored LED. I bought the white colored LEDs and was given this tip and since they're cheap enough, I tried it with red colored and was surprised at the difference. It really does work.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
43 Posts
BTW, you can just replace the tail/stop light bulbs with LED bulbs without replacing the whole assembly. The bulbs are cheap enough and work real well.

FWIW, get the red colored LEDs, they somehow combine with the red tinted lens and are brighter than if you buy a white colored LED. I bought the white colored LEDs and was given this tip and since they're cheap enough, I tried it with red colored and was surprised at the difference. It really does work.

Do you have a source for those bulbs?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
359 Posts
early models

I'm trying to squeeze some more out of mine too. However, I was thinking about the early models 02-03 DL1000 and I read on this forum that they had a max alternator output of 270 watts. Then I read that to run the bike required 285 watts? Crazy.
 

·
FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
Joined
·
38,048 Posts
2002 DL1000s have 350W outputs. 2003 and later have 400W outputs. DL650s changed from 375W to 400W in 2008.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,437 Posts
FWIW, get the red colored LEDs, they somehow combine with the red tinted lens and are brighter than if you buy a white colored LED. I bought the white colored LEDs and was given this tip and since they're cheap enough, I tried it with red colored and was surprised at the difference. It really does work.
Ordinary tail lights are only about 8 watts each, hardly worth bothering with for the load savings.

A colored lens filters out all but the color of the lens, e. g., a red lens filters out all other colors and passes red light. The "white" LEDs are not true white which contains all colors. "White" LEDs have no red, so there is little in the color spectrum to pass through a red lens. When buying LEDs for a colored lens, always buy the LED of the same color.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
197 Posts
BTW, you can just replace the tail/stop light bulbs with LED bulbs without replacing the whole assembly. The bulbs are cheap enough and work real well.

FWIW, get the red colored LEDs, they somehow combine with the red tinted lens and are brighter than if you buy a white colored LED. I bought the white colored LEDs and was given this tip and since they're cheap enough, I tried it with red colored and was surprised at the difference. It really does work.
Interesting. Get a red bulb, got it. Is it the same brightness as stock? And, how the heck do you remove the rear taillight lens? Is it obvious on eBay which bulb is a replacement for the stock one?

Saving watts is great, but mainly, I'd like to cheaply add more light in the rear.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,231 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
48 Posts
HID Savings

I'm tossing this in here as info for anyone looking to save watts. I installed the VVME kit this past week and all in all am very please with it. I retainted the Easter Beaver headlight switch and use it to allow turning on/off both HIDs (via the H4 socket trigger), and added a right side on/off that cuts the power to the right HID ballast. Here are the numbers from the DVM:

All @ 14.4 Volts, engine idle:

Measured at the fuse:
Stock Headlight Single Low: 4.84 amps
Stock Headlight Single Hi: 5.30 amps

HIDs
Measured at the fuse:
Single HID: 2.93 amps (6+ peak at startup)
Dual HID: 6.39 amps (12-13 peak)
Stock Low Beam Circuit: .064 amps (trigger)
Stock High Beam Circuit: 1.42 amps (bi-xenon coils must use a fair bit here)

So I figure I'm saving at least 35-40 watts on low beams and 30-35 on hi with everything running, and can still turn one off if I need too.

Hope that helps someone!

Cheers!

Jon
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,437 Posts
1 - 15 of 15 Posts
Top