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Discussion Starter #1
Word is that a Nuvi or Zumo is in my future. :)

Can someone send me a short list of things I need to buy to get a power outlet up front ... and also for a heated gear plug to come out from under the seat. I'm hoping Eastern Beaver has all the stuff.

I know this subject has been kicked around a lot but there's too much info and I just want to get a quick shopping list to order the stuff now.

Thx.

pmk
 

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Hooking up power for the GPS

Before you order anything you need to know the exact model of GPS unit you are getting. Not every GPS unit uses the same style power/USB connector. The best way to power your GPS is by ordering the proper cable/connector from a Garmin reseller. You will also need a mounting system for your GPS. Garmin makes a specific cradle for each of their models so you need to order that too from the reseller. Eastern Beaver does not supply these items.

To facilitate an appropriate mounting location in/on the dash (behind the windscreen) you will also need a mounting bracket with a 1 inch ball for the RAM connection with your GPS cradle. There are a couple of good sources for the bracket that will fit a Vee/Wee. I obtained my bracket from RichlandRick here Richlandrick's Adventure-Tech LLC or you can order one from Pat Walsh Designs here Stombone GPS Mount for V-Strom DL1000/DL650. :thumbup:

The wiring cable will not have "finished" leads with which to connect to the battery. You will have to do that yourself. The cable normally comes with an in-line fuse to protect the battery and the GPS unit from a short.

Omce you have all the components you will find that it is fairly easy install. :yesnod:
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks, Ol_Baldy.

I'm thinking that it would be good to install an automotive style plug to front panel so I can use a variety of electronics.

How does this front panel socket system seem?

Suzuki VStrom Electrics

pmk
 

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I used to have my gps hooked up to a switched powerlet, but changed it around so its direct from the battery. It's got its own built-in inline fuse, and I dont have to worry about it turning off and trying to locate the sats every time I shut the bike off for gas.
As for the powerlet kit from Jim at Eastern Beaver, it will have everything you need, and probably a thing or two you didnt realize you needed.
If you end up ordering from EB, pick up a PC-8 or 3CS fuse panel at the same time to make the wiring even more painless.
I didnt opt to mount my powerlet in the fairing, I went with one of Richland Rich's shelf. It's visible in this pic, just behind my temp gauge...


Good luck,
Chris in Boston
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I bought the powerlet version of this kit. I like it.

I mounted it to a Richland Rich shelf like frosty. I like it.

With a powerlet <-> automotive adapter the world is at my command!
The Richland Rick Shelf (Rick's Auxillary Shelf) looks awesome, especially since he can powercoat them black and drill some holes.

I'm thinking of getting one with two plugs, one automotive and one powerlet. Is this a bad idea? I can see wanting to use both the GPS and heated gear at some point. Is this a bad idea?

Does the Eastern Beaver kit allow for two plugs?

Here's pic from another forum of the configuration:

 

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"Bad idea" is in the eye of the beholder. As long as you are fused appropriately and not drawing too much.. yeah, whatever.

I got my shelf cut for a single powerlet on the right. I've since drilled it out for an LED for my voltage indicator. Pretty much just like Rich shows in his own setup in his threads.
I got mine coated black. It looks good on my black bike.

The kit as-is is not setup for two plugs. It could be modified. I'm told EB is open to making custom kits. Or you could piece something together from his non-bike specific kits.

Although I'd just get one of these. It's what I did:


If/when I get a GPS I plan on splicing a powerlet end onto it.
 

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Power Outlet

Thanks, Ol_Baldy.

I'm thinking that it would be good to install an automotive style plug to front panel so I can use a variety of electronics.

How does this front panel socket system seem?

Suzuki VStrom Electrics

pmk
This is a good system BUT if you are thinking of using it for heated riderwear you cannot use an auto cigar type outlet for this purpose - not rated for high wattage. Instead you must use a Powerlet (BMW/Euro) type socket (higher amps/watts rated). You will then need an adapter to go from BMW socket (male) to COAX type connector (female) to connect a heated vest or liner.

I have one of each type of power outlet on my bike - one for heated clothing and the other for recharging or running low-draw electronics. I also have them on a Rick's Auxiliary Shelf.

If you are planning on having several other powered items installed on your bike you should consider, as Frostypuck suggests, a power block such as the PC-8 that EB sells. I have that too and I only have one open circuit left! :jawdrop:

A GPS unit draws very low power so you don't have to use anything heavier than 20 gauge multi-filament wire but for the BMW (Euro) circuit you should use at least 16 gauge wire - I used 14 gauge on my bike - the difference in weight is negligible. If you decide to rig it so that it runs only on a "switched" circuit you should use an Eastern Beaver solution, whether that involves its own relay system or through the PC-8 block. :thumbup:

Installing new electrical circuits in the Wee/Vee (or any bike) is best done with the seat, tank and side fairings removed. Have fun - I personally enjoy doing this kind of work. With experience (your car, boat, trailer, etc.) you get better at it. But, if you are not confident in your abilities, be sure to seek the advice and help of someone who has the knowledge, skill and experience. It will save you grief down the road. Also, be sure to use all-weather connectors up front where the wiring is exposed to rain and splash water.

Have fun with your project. :hurray:
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks everyone for the great advice.

So, I think I want a Rickland Rick shelf with 2 Powerlets connected to a PC-8 fuse panel under the seat (for future expansion such as heated gear for my beloved pinion).

I can see heated gear coming from the under the seat... and heated grips coming off the Powerlet.

Does this sound reasonable? Hmmmm, maybe I need a voltage indicator on the shelf too?

pmk
 

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Thanks for the reality check, nhbubba.

What do you think of the Fuzeblock FZ-1 instead of the PC-8?

Fuzeblock FZ-1 Compact Accessory Fuse Panel

btw: I hear that rocketmoto is from Hollis NH.

pmk
Only 6 outputs and you need to come up with your own wiring to the battery and switched power... By the time you're done, you might as well bought the EB 8 circuit with the plug n' play harness... Simple and easy...
 

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Hollis eh? Never heard of 'em. Nice living o'r there though. Lived in the city next to that town for ~5 years.

I bought the EB PC-8 kit. It is nice. 100% plug-n-play too. Even an idiot like me can't screw it up.

My one beef is where it mounts; behind the battery. I'm in the process of it and everything now and finding everything I want to wire is up front. I'm finding that-as Greywolf has pointed out-most of my toys are up front.

If you want to put the fuse block up front, the pre-cut EB harness isn't going to save you much.

Although considering all the other EB toys and most aftermarket stuff is designed to run back to the battery or a fuse block near the battery, I'm not sure relocating it to the front is that much of a huge win.

Re: Output count. I was going to go with the EB 3-circuit setup. .. That was until I got serious about the toys I have now AND the toys I think I might someday want. Suddenly I was at 5-6 circuits before I knew it. And who knows what I'll want to tinker with tomorrow.

8 vs 3 circuits was a no-brainier. 8 vs 6 is less so.
 

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The PC8 has 8 circuits, 6 switched and 2 unswitched, handling a maximum of 15A each and requires an external activation relay and the wiring associated with the relay. Its input connectors are beefier than the Fuzeblocks allowing 10ga wire. However, it requires three heavy wires, switched hot, unswitched hot and ground for input.

The Fuzeblock has 6 circuits handling a maximum of 10A each and has a built in relay. Each circuit is selectable between switched or unswitched. It requires large hot and ground wires plus a small trigger wire for input.

Which is best depends on the user's requirements.
 

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I'm about to hardwire my Garmin 765T onto my Wee with a Strombone and Ram Mount. I have two direct wire connections: the USB one that goes into the side of the unit and another native mount one that plugs into the bottom of the unit. Both have inline fuses. Not sure which one will be the best connection.

Anybody got pros and cons as to which connector is best? Vibration, weather, ease of on/off, etc. thanks in advance.
 

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Power for Garmin?

If the mini USB connector has a 90 degree approach (connector has elbow that puts the cable drop straight back without a bend) it's pretty infallible. I've never had the USB connector come loose or fall out in over three years of touring in all kinds of weather. My Garmin USB cable is hard wired through my PC8 fuse box (in-line fuse is not needed). I don't know about the Garmin proprietary plugs.
 
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