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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Price is my primary consideration when buying tires.

Yea they're are those that won't put "cheap" tires on a bike thinking that expensive tires are safer somehow. I don't believe that seeing that all tires sold in the US have to meet DOT standards.

I've always wondered though if there was a cost to wear ratio that favors the expensive tires. Do tires that cost twice as much have that much greater tread wear? Being uh.. cheap I haven't bucked up to find out for myself.

Talking to the Euro bike riders at work that do buy premium tires they report about the same mileage I get with the Shinko 712.

Recently I bought a 2014 DL1000 that came with Pirelli Scorpion Trail 2 tires. The tires had about 1000 miles on them. Now at about 5000 miles the back has hit the wear bars. Hmm not any better than the Shinko. The Pirelli is more than twice the cost of the Shinko.

So there you go empirical evidence that it's not cost effective to buy expensive tires!

Sample of one! :grin2:
 
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Got 6800mi out of 712 rest.

Would have been more if not for the road trip it just melted off at highway speeds on 53F November day.

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Yea they're are those that won't put "cheap" tires on a bike thinking that expensive tires are safer somehow. I don't believe that seeing that all tires sold in the US have to meet DOT standards.
I don't know if I would "reference" DOT standards. After all, we see what helmets are out there with "DOT" on them!

But I am with you otherwise. There is simply no guarantee of tire life or performance based on price. I have run Michelin PR3 and PR4. PR3 did give good mileage, but the PR4 was much less. I tried them and they were not worth the extra cost. I have bought TKC 70's, a higher price tire, and find they do deliver really good mileage if you can stand the cupping on the front tire.

My go to tire is the Bridgestone T-30, T-30 EVO, and now the T-31. Best all around bike tire for the pavement when cost per mile is considered in with great performance on the road. Tires are a compromise. Really good off road tires have to give up something to pavement manners and vice versa. Find what works for your style of riding.

I can honestly say that the highest cost tires rarely find their way onto my bikes or other vehicles. You are paying for a name. I think people get brainwashed by what they pay. If it is more, it is better? For instance, Michelin Road series love to advertise about wet traction. Yet I have never slipped on the Bridgestones I run? I have asked owners that tell me how good their Michelins are in the rain "how do you know? Did the tires you had before slide around a lot". I can say that about some other brands. Each to their own.....
 

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...For instance, Michelin Road series love to advertise about wet traction. Yet I have never slipped on the Bridgestones I run? I have asked owners that tell me how good their Michelins are in the rain "how do you know? Did the tires you had before slide around a lot".....
I would certainly make no broad claims based on my own limited observations. But with the OEM Trailwings, I did get some sliding on wet roads that ceased when I replaced them with PR4s.
 

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I used to run shinkos and get about 10k out of a rear. Now I run the Michelin A3 and get 17-20. Sometimes there is a wear advantage, other times not. I got sick of changing tires twice a year, so I'm happy with my choice.
 

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If Michelin would guarantee me 10,000 miles on an Anakee rear tire I would run them on the Strom and probably on the RT!

I have never had a tire, Michelin or other brand, that gave me 10,000 miles on the rear. I don't dispute that others can do it. I really don't know why I cannot. But it goes back to value. I can buy a new T-31 Bridgestone for about $135 and get maybe 6-8,000 miles. The same PR4 is about $200. At 6,000 miles on the T-31, I don't mind taking it off and replacing it for a trip at the price I pay. I have only ran one or two rear tires to the wear indicators. Always seem to have trip where I don't trust the tire to last.
 

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Price won't guarantee longevity, if you carry a load, run high speeds, ride on rough rocky roads, you can destroy a tire pretty quick. I have noticed, however, that tires in the same price range tend to give similar performance regardless of brand.
 

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I dont brag about how much I spend on a tire, how little I spend on a tire, or how much life I got of out a tire.
My deal is how the tire affects the bike's steering and handling, and the available grip both dry and in the rain.
I've put tire brands on my bikes through the years that had excellent grip and improved handling, but close to zero directional stability( some of the Dunlops). Ive had others that had it all but, through no fault of the bike developed cupping issues(Bridegstone). Ive had tires that I thought were perfect in every way(Metzeler), and when I replaced them I found other tires that were even slightly better(Michelin PR4).
I'm not rich. I have ways of saving money. Scrimping and hyper-miling on my motorcycle tires aren't included in those ways.
I use what I consider the best handling, best steering, and most most neutral tires I can find. If I have to pay a bit more to achieve that I'm not hearbroken
I dont buy my tools from Harbor Freight either.
 

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If Michelin would guarantee me 10,000 miles on an Anakee rear tire I would run them on the Strom and probably on the RT!

I have never had a tire, Michelin or other brand, that gave me 10,000 miles on the rear. I don't dispute that others can do it. I really don't know why I cannot..
The one on the right (E07 rear) has 25k, middle (E07 front) has 30 and left (712 rear) 6,800. YMMV


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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
...
I'm not rich. I have ways of saving money. Scrimping and hyper-miling on my motorcycle tires aren't included in those ways.
I use what I consider the best handling, best steering, and most most neutral tires I can find. If I have to pay a bit more to achieve that I'm not heartbroken...

I don't hypermil my bike but I also don't ride anywhere near 100% on the street. High performance tires are a waste of money for me. Yea maybe there would be a situation that the "cheap" tires capabilities would be exceeded but that would be an error on my part.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
The one on the right (E07 rear) has 25k, middle (E07 front) has 30 and left (712 rear) 6,800. YMMV


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I'd say that you went way past the wear bars on the 712.

That tire was done long before 6800 miles!
 

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Spec, I hope to never exceed the capabilities of my tires, or even the whole motorcycle I'm riding.
I'm not talking about ultimate performance at ultimate speed, just for what I consider for normal street riding, commuting, and (at times high-speed) sport-touring. Nothing out of the ordinary.
 

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I've tried the one front to two rear Shinko 705 experience and liked it. However, the Stock Bridgestones that came on my Vee2 were fantastic. I'll be going back to the stock Battlewings because of the performance vs price and life ratio when the this second 705 rear is done. Unless I have a BDR planned, then I'll go wit the Shinko 705s again. Two great value options.
 

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It was at 80% at 3k when I left home and I took it off when I got back. Most of the damage was done in first 500mi when it overheated (pumped to 40psi in <58F) and melted off on freeway.

I got it up to 48psi and it lasted the rest of the trip. Stopping and getting new tire wasn't an option. I did best trying to minimize speed/going in straight line by taking scenic route.

Shinko's speed/load ratings are highly optimistic people who getting good mileage out of them don't ride long distance
I'd say that you went way past the wear bars on the 712.

That tire was done long before 6800 miles!
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I don't like changing tires, i do them myself, so the longer i can get between changes the better, on the wee, i will get about 5000 miles on the anakee wild rear, on the yamaha, i get 10k miles with metzeler, street only. i've never get more than 5k on a 50/50 tire
 

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Spec you sparked my curiosity so I compared the cheapest tire, Shinko 705 I've ever used and the most expensive, Mich. PR4 tire I've ever used to see the cost per mile. .0141 cents/mile for the 705 and .0146 cents/mile for the PR4. The PR4 was at the fourth decimal more expensive but I pay $30 to have tires swapped so factoring that in the PR4 is actually cheaper per mile plus more convenient to not have to change as often. My favorite tire the Tourance Next costs more than both at .0155/mile but I don't mind paying a little extra for the performance. Of course mileage varies greatly from one rider to the next.
 

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Price is my primary consideration when buying tires.
This is just like the argument the price of helmets. If you have a $50.00 head buy a $50.00 helmet, LOL

Seriously, tires fall into the same category for me. Bikes only have two tires so why risk you butt on cheap tires? There is a bigger question than the number of miles you can get out of the tires, it is how well they work.

I know when I bought my used 2003 V Strom it had some junk tires on it. There very first thing I did was replace them with the best "road" tires I could find for the bike. After doing a lot of research I decided on a set of Michelin Road Pilot 4 Trail tires.

I knew that my V Strom would not be doing any off-road riding so I wanted tires that would last and be the best "road/street" tire I could buy. The Road Pilot series of tires has been around for a long time and came with great reviews covering both their road holding and mileage numbers.

I suppose if you are going to ride mostly off road there are better choices of this bike, but lets get serious, the V Strom is really a 80/20% bike so why wouldn't you want the best road tire.

Of course this is only my personal opinion after riding for over 50 years.
 

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Exactly!

I dont brag about how much I spend on a tire, how little I spend on a tire, or how much life I got of out a tire.
My deal is how the tire affects the bike's steering and handling, and the available grip both dry and in the rain.
I've put tire brands on my bikes through the years that had excellent grip and improved handling, but close to zero directional stability( some of the Dunlops). Ive had others that had it all but, through no fault of the bike developed cupping issues(Bridegstone). Ive had tires that I thought were perfect in every way(Metzeler), and when I replaced them I found other tires that were even slightly better(Michelin PR4).
I'm not rich. I have ways of saving money. Scrimping and hyper-miling on my motorcycle tires aren't included in those ways.
I use what I consider the best handling, best steering, and most most neutral tires I can find. If I have to pay a bit more to achieve that I'm not hearbroken
I dont buy my tools from Harbor Freight either.
Well said my thought as well...
 

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Seriously!

I used to run shinkos and get about 10k out of a rear. Now I run the Michelin A3 and get 17-20. Sometimes there is a wear advantage, other times not. I got sick of changing tires twice a year, so I'm happy with my choice.

You must be stating kilometers, right?
 
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