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Z

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I'm an idiot, this I know. This is my second oil change on my wee. The first one went fine.

When trying to get the drain plug off, I may have turned it the wrong way using quite a bit of force :evil: . Now, the head seems to be stripped, and I don't know how to get it off.

PLEASE HELP!!!
 
Z

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Paper said:
So it's the head, and not the threads??
I'd take a quick spin to Sears and buy the stripped nut set they have. It clamps down on any rounded nut/bolt head..

http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?pid=00952166000

$30.. Money well spent.. If you have this kit, you'll never strip another head.. :lol:

Awesome. I will be heading over there tomorrow. THANKS!

P.S. It's definitely the head, but maybe also the threads? Don't know yet, because I can't get the plug to turn at all.
 

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Run the engine a while to get it warm before you try to take it out. Then use the sears device or a big honkin' set of vice grips and clamp down on the head of the bolt. Make doubly sure you know which way to turn it and try to turn it. If it is still stuck, take a rubber mallet and beat lightly on the end of the vice grips while turning with the other hand. This simulates an impact wrench and really helps loosen things without too much torque.


Just make sure the oil pan and bolt are good and warm when you do this.
 
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HiSPL said:
Run the engine a while to get it warm before you try to take it out. Then use the sears device or a big honkin' set of vice grips and clamp down on the head of the bolt. Make doubly sure you know which way to turn it and try to turn it. If it is still stuck, take a rubber mallet and beat lightly on the end of the vice grips while turning with the other hand. This simulates an impact wrench and really helps loosen things without too much torque.


Just make sure the oil pan and bolt are good and warm when you do this.
Thanks. Good advice. I went out to Sears today and bought the recommended product. Haven't given it a shot yet, but as soon as I get a few minutes, I will.
 

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I almost ran into a similar problem the other day when I changed my oil. I started cranking the drain bolt the wrong way. I got thru about 1/4 turn when I noticed it getting tighter :shock:. No harm done, but time to slow down and be more careful.

I suspect that drain bolts are generally made of a lower-strength grade of steel so that they strip before the threads of the case do. The previous owner of my XR partially stripped its drain bolt and I finished the job a couple months ago; the threads of the case were OK.

By the way, the only place I could get non-energy-conserving 10w-40 around here on Saturday (Canada Day holiday) was the Husky station so I used the "Chevron Supreme" brand oil they had. The Strom seems to like it just fine.

- Martin
 

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Am I missing something here? Is the head still attached to the bolt?
If it is you should be able to get it off with a pair of vice grips or a good quality socket. Make sure you are turning in the proper direction.
Try using an SAE size sometimes it's just a hair smaller and you can pound the socket onto the stripped bolt and remove it that way.
Other thing you can try is to use a chisel or a nail set and hit the side
of the bolt. I have looosened plenty of stripped screws and bolts in that manner.
 
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Follow up...

Alright guys, I got it out, and a BIG thank you goes to Paper for suggesting the Sears product -- http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?pid=00952166000 I bought it and it worked great.

At first, the Bolt Out "nut" wouldn't sit on the drain plug head far enough, so I figured I could tap it in with a hammer (not too hard). This did the trick, because it then gripped the drain plug head nicely, and with a nice tug with a double box wrench, it came loose.

I'm heading over to my local Suzuki dealer today for a new plug and gasket. I've been out of commission for a few days because of this (didn't want to risk a leak), and am looking forward to changing the oil and getting back on the road. By the way, I'm switching to full synthetic (2300 miles).

To mike183: Yes, the head was still attached to the bolt, but the metal was really soft, so the head became almost round. I couldn't get any other socket sizes to bite. In terms of using vice grips and other tools, I tried, but if you look at the drain plug, there's a metal tab next to it that really prevented me from getting things in there. I'm sure a more skilled mechanic could have done it, but to honest, I'm really glad to have the "Bolt Out" Sears product ($30). It's something to have around the house anyway.

Thanks again for the input, and I hope this thread helps someone out of a jam in the future.
 

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They make 6 point sockets - you should be using them to prevent such incidents in the future.

I'll bet even money that you were using a 12 point socket when you rounded the head.
 

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I'm really glad to have the "Bolt Out" Sears product ($30). It's something to have around the house anyway.
Like I said, now that you have it, you'll never need it again, unless you forget where you put the kit.. :lol:

Glad it worked.. Nothing I hate more than to see someone not able to ride.

This week I was in The Soo, in Ontario and a Minnesota guy lost one of his license plate holders. He was about to ride around Superior, so I pulled out a 1/4" stainless capscrew and stainless nylock nut..

A minute and a thank you later, he and his wife were back on the road. :D
 

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Sears also sells a 3/8" drive torque wrench. I highly recommend it. That way you won't overtighten it. I tighten it to 16.5 ft lbs.
 

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To be sure I don't get confused with tighting or loosing a bolt is with a rachet by hand and in the proper way I turn the rachett on my hand, and reverse to confirm so when you switch the rachet upside down you don't get confused in witch way it tighthens or looses, hope I make my self understand.
 
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The most valuable lesson I learned from this is simply the "righty, tighty, lefty loosey" saying.

If I had just taken my time to think about that first, this wouldn't have necessarily happened.

Oh well. Life is for learning, and I have now learned. :D
 
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