[Kreuld]

So I ordered and installed a D.I.D. chain and sprockets set but I don't have a chain tool too expand the rivets in my master link. My bike is my only transportation and I really need to get it at least operational. The one motorcycle oriented shop in town is closed so I figured I'd see if anyone has an idea for something to get me good enough for a day or two. Thanks in advance.

 

[STCorndog]

You will need the proper link pin flaring tool. It is one speciality tool that would be hard to duplicate.

 

[Kreuld]

So what flaring I could get with my backyard engineering probably isn't safe and I should start looking for other ways to get around until I can get the right tool?

 

[dtysdalx21]

Get a clip style masterlink. They are not evil.

 

[STCorndog]

So what flaring I could get with my backyard engineering probably isn't safe and I should start looking for other ways to get around until I can get the right tool?

That’s my recommendation. Or borrow the tool.

 

[Gert]

Try getting hold of an EK screw type master link. See reply #6 of ek screw type master link

 

[Ellwood]

I would also recommend the EK screw type, just put one on my 1000 and it was very easy. May be cheaper than buying a rivet tool, but either one is going to leave you without a bike until shop is open or you can get one delivered.

 

[Motorpsychology]

Try getting hold of an EK screw type master link. See reply #6 of ek screw type master link

I would also recommend the EK screw type, just put one on my 1000 and it was very easy. May be cheaper than buying a rivet tool, but either one is going to leave you without a bike until shop is open or you can get one delivered.

Do we know if an EK screw master link will fit a D.I.D. chain? Pin diameter & length; big-small-OK?

 

[davethewelder]

You could use a heavy block of steel and a ball peen hammer. it won't take much to "mushroom" the pins and your golden.

 

[STCorndog]

You could use a heavy block of steel and a ball peen hammer. it won't take much to "mushroom" the pins and your golden.

The correct tool is machined to form a sort of button head shape at the end of the pins, while at the same time holding the side plates at the correct width.

It is not just ponding the head flat. It might work in a pinch, but I would remove the link when I sourced another and do it correctly.

 

[Brockie]

I would be very about considering a makeshift temporary fix.
IF the link parted you could severely damage the motor. It is not unknown for a broken chain to jam against the motor and damage the engine casing.
Also using a different make of link may cause problems with size mismatch. Manufacturers are not obliged to match pin size with other makes of chain.

 

[Rolex]

It is not just flaring the pins.

The side plate must be pushed home evenly and that is not easy to do.

 

[PeteW]

And don't try to use a master link from another manufacturer. The roller pitch, inner width and diameter is controlled by standards, AFAIK everything else is left to the manufacturer and they don't all do the same things wrt outer width, width of plates, inner roller diameter.

 

[Hans471]

A chain failure can really ruin you day, and even kill your engine case. Do the job right with the right parts and tools or don't do it.

 

[strom_r0m]

This worked well for me...20 bucks

 

[Gert]

In reply to the query in #8 above wrt "if an EK screw master link will fit a D.I.D. chain ", I asked the same question myself in #7 of EK screw type master links.... After studing the digital caliper figures, the answer to the EK master link compatibility was answered in reply #20 of the linked thread.

 

[D.T.]

So what flaring I could get with my backyard engineering probably isn't safe and I should start looking for other ways to get around until I can get the right tool?

Famous last words.

Red Green is fine for no options, stuck in the middle of no where and going to die. Duct tape and bailing wire.

But if you can wait and do it right, do it right the first time.

 

[davethewelder]

The correct tool is machined to form a sort of button head shape at the end of the pins, while at the same time holding the side plates at the correct width.

It is not just ponding the head flat. It might work in a pinch, but I would remove the link when I sourced another and do it correctly.

I hear ya, but I have a saying " we've done so much with so little for so long, were now qualified to do anything with nothing". I once TIG welded a the plate to the pin, cooled it off with a wet rag, didn't even hurt the O ring... Also, "if a hammer dont fix it, you have an electrical problem"

 

[STCorndog]

@davethewelder

I really like your style. If you were careful, and put a stick or some spacer in the master link, then pinched the side plates with some needle nose vise grips against your spacer…tapping the pin head to expand the head…….with a hammer, would work just fine. I have done it replacing a chain on a trip.

However, as I’m sure you know, some people can not be trusted with a hammer and pliers.

 

[Umma]

Get a clip style masterlink. They are not evil.

Why don’t I see anyone using clip master links on there V-Strom chains?