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Discussion Starter #1
I just installed a Rostra CC on my 2013 Glee. Went for a test ride and everything worked great except when I pulled the clutch the engine would rev up past 8000 and then I hit the kill switch. Tried this multiple times and the CC would not shut off when the engine rpm climbed. Does anyone have an idea what might be wrong? I did not install any relays. I am pulling the bike back apart to look for the problem.

I copied the wiring diagram noted by others on this site and have the:
- Grey (VSS) wire connected to the pink with white strip
- Blue (tach) wire connected to the brown with black strip
see attached picture

Here are my dip switch settings:
1 Off
2 Off
3 Off
4 On
5 Off
6 On
7 On
8 Off
9 Off
10 On
11 Off
12 Off

SOLUTION?? I found this idea on the site and I am tempted to try it. Connect the Green wire from the main control unit (Neutral Safety Switch) to the clutch switch if you want the cruise to cancel without over-revving when you pull the clutch, and change dip switch 11 to "Automatic".
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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Here is the wiring diagram without relays. I never got it to work with them but with the relays taken out it works fine. I'm pretty sure mine is wired like this except the 10A and 4A fuses are in my fuse block. It requires an incandescent bulb in the tail/stop light. I use the same dip switch settings. The difference in rpm when grabbing the clutch has canceled the CC just fine on two bikes I've had CC on. I don't use the engage light so orange and pink aren't used.


Rostra wiring diagram without relays by Greywolf, V-Strom rider, on Flickr


See Rostra CC Wiring Diagram for more info.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
This is the same wiring diagram I used. I have the stock tail light and did not install any relays. Everything else works fine - set, off with brake, resume, accel, decel .

Could I have a bad CC unit?
Any reason not to try the CC Neutral wire?
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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I haven't read anything about using the green wire. All I've seen is using a relay controlled by the B/Y clutch switch wire to interrupt the purple wire connection.
 

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Ned - See page 21 of the Rostra Installation & Owner's Manual. It says you can use the diagnostic mode to test your tach signal. In this mode the diagnostic LED should blink faster at higher revs. I did not run the tach signal test on my install but it sounds pretty simple. If your tach signal turns out to be invalid, you might consider using a Posi-tap to connect your dark blue wire to the bike's brown/black tach signal wire.
Posi-Tap- No Crimp Tap

Greywolf - I think that wiring diagram may have a junction shown incorrectly. Looks like the 12V+ going through the 4 amp fuse hits a junction and returns directly to 12V-. I think the red wire from the switch has a little segment shown that mistakenly connects it to 12V-.
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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I took out that little stub of red wire and some other unused wiring.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I went into the Rostra diagnostic mode to check the tach wire and the connection is OK. As the revs climbed the light flashed faster. I installed my CC inside the fairing so it is a complete teardown to be able to see inside the unit. Since I had a problem I hate to just put it back together and may go ahead and install a clutch relay. Unless there are other ideas.
I know someone else on this site tried connecting the Neutral wire from the CC to the clutch wire on the bike. I will do more research.
Thanks for your help.
 

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Ned - I had the cruise set a couple of times today and pulled the clutch to see how much it revved before cutting off the cruise. Once I was going about 60 mph indicated and another time about 50 mph indicated. Both times the bike revved about +2000 rpm before cutting off the cruise. With the clutch pulled it revs up pretty fast so it only takes an instant to rev and cut off. I can certainly see if you are at freeway speeds it could rev past 8000. Have you set your CC a lower speed (maybe 45 mph) and pulled the clutch to see if it cuts off before getting too high for comfort?

I use my CC a lot and don't think I've ever had to rely on the over-rev to shut it down. Whether I'm on the freeway or back roads it's always just a quick touch of the brake to disengage the cruise. The only few times I've used the over-rev was when playing around with it to see how well that worked.
 

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Mine revs up fairly high when I pulled in the clutch to test it also. But it did release. I don't figure I will be pulling the clutch lever in normally while c/c is engaged so I am good with how mine works.

Mine might go to 8k or higher. But even that is not an issue. Wouldn't care to see it bouncing off the rev limiter, but if cruising at 5500-6000 and it bumps to 8000 I don't feel that is excessive.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks for helpful comments. When I pull in the clutch and the revs climb I was ready to hit the Kill switch and never let the engine get to the rev limiter. I agree with your comments on not expecting to pull in the clutch with the CC on, and I may just leave it alone and ride it.

But from additional research it appears I can connect the Neutral Safety Wire from the CC (light green) to the "hot" (black with yellow tracer) wire going to the clutch lever switch and when the lever is pulled it will shut off the CC.

Strom Chaser shows this connection on his wiring Diagram. I will leave the Transmission dip switch at Manual.
http://www.stromtrooper.com/v-strom...1-rostra-cruise-control-alternate-wiring.html

I also found others who had used the clutch wire connected to the NSS wire of their CC.
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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I have found other mention of that the light green wire going to ground as a safety switch and the clutch switch does ground the B/Y wire. Try it. I suspect the clutch releasing mechanically before the switch closes electrically will cause a jump in revs but it shouldn't be bad. The question is whether it will make a real difference.
 

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Thanks for helpful comments. When I pull in the clutch and the revs climb I was ready to hit the Kill switch and never let the engine get to the rev limiter. I agree with your comments on not expecting to pull in the clutch with the CC on, and I may just leave it alone and ride it.
Try it again and see if it actually hits the rev limiter. No harm in that. If it doesn't, you can just use the brake to cancel the cruise anyway. In most cases when you would pull in the clutch (eg to slow) you'd be using the brake.

Still, I can see how 8k rpm would be unsettling.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
My cruise works great. Mounting the CC inside the fairing saves space but is a real pain to access if you have any problems.

I routed the two CC wires that I was having problems with back to the battery area:
- Tach (blue Wire)
- Neutral Safety Switch (NSS, light green) wire

This would allow easier access if I had additional problems. Then I reassembled bike and connected the NSS wire to the bike's Clutch Switch wire (black with yellow tracer), and connected the Tach blue wire to ground per Rostra's instruction. I purchased some Posi-taps connectors which are a very good option suggested by another member.

The CC works correctly and shuts off when either the brake or clutch is operated. Thanks for the advice.
 

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Glad to hear it's working well now. How quickly does the CC shut off now that you have the NSS wired? Does it rev a little still as others have described?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
The engine does rev up a little depending on your speed and if pushing into a headwind. The harder the engine is working to hold the speed the more it revs before it slows down, but you can tell the CC shuts off immediately.

I can't wait to go a longer ride and really try it out. It will be a nice addition. I know a few bikes have factory CC, with all of the electronics on bike I would think more would add it.
 
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