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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I'm going to start a new thread on this as I'm in the middle and have many questions.



What's the size & pitch of the allen head replacement bolt into the throttle body that holds the clamp for the CC cable (red arrow)? Tried a 6mm x 1.0 pitch, didn't work.
Probably more ?s to follow. TIA Ian, Iowa


Edit-went out to the garage this am and the 6 x 1.0 fit perfectly, just another example of my mechanical ability. It's going to take an act of God for me to get this back together!
 

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If I remember correctly, I used the stock screw when I installed mine.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
I tried to remove mine in place with a Phillips screwdriver and don't want to do that again.
Removed the throttle bodies and used an impact screwdriver (best $5 I ever spent) to remove the *&*^% soft screw. Don't want to do that again so would like to replace with an allen (sp) head screw. Ian, Iowa
 

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cant remember, but i took the one i taken off and when to nearest bolts and nuts job and have fabricate a new one for me.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Another question.
Did most of you just thread the end of the cc cable cover with the supplied nut as suggested in the manual? If so, is a nut on either side of the P-clamp enough to hold the cable in place without using epoxy, silicone, etc?
Thanks again, Ian
 

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A nut on each side of the clamp works fine if a little blue Loctite is used. The clamp doesn't provide enough surface for the nuts to bear against to make me comfortable with a dry application.
 

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I tried to remove mine in place with a Phillips screwdriver and don't want to do that again.
Removed the throttle bodies and used an impact screwdriver (best $5 I ever spent) to remove the *&*^% soft screw. Don't want to do that again so would like to replace with an allen (sp) head screw. Ian, Iowa
After dropping the R/R and its bracket out of the way on my '04 Wee, an impact driver with extensions (and #3 Phillips bit if memory serves) loosened the screw while it was in place. I went back with the same screw.
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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I used the good old soft screw removal method of notching the screw head at 9 o'clock with a hammer and a flat bladed screwdriver. Then hold the blade against the notch and strike mostly downwards. If you're practiced, the whole thing can be done in one step.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I checked the throttle cable travel and it is 7/8". According to the instructions, I need 3/4" of extra slack to be provided by the beaded chain (three beads = 3/4" slack).

I assume I will used extra chain to reach from the CC cable end and the "three bead connector" attached to the rear throttle body. So-whatever length of chain I use, 3 extra beads of slack should work?

Anyone remember the total number of beads used? I remember someone had too little slack (causing an increased idle speed) and had to tear everything apart and add bead(s).

Thanks again, Ian
 

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All you need is minimum slack. As long as the cable isn't holding the throttle open, it is not too tight. You don't want much sag or it may catch on something.
 

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I might add a couple of things.

FWIW, I originally attached my cable to the rear bell crank. I realized later that the throttle bodies were being un-synched (is that a word?) when being operated by the cruise at the rear throttle body. As designed, the play in the throttle linkage is eliminated when the throttles are activated by the front bell crank. When the throttles are operated from the rear, play is introduced. It wasn't a great amount, but was enough to make an OCD like me concerned. I ultimately moved the cable to the front throttle linkage.

Concerning the cable travel, the Rostra has the capability to move the cable 1 5/8". If enough slack is provided in the cable (with added beads, etc.) to ensure full cable travel, the engagement of the cruise won't be smooth. The speed would drop substantially before the cable slack could be taken up.

On the other hand, if minimum slack is provided with insufficient throw at the attachment point, maximum throttle could be applied with the servo still trying to pull the cable. I don't know if this would be a problem or not but it might strain the servo.

To get around this, I made a bracket that attaches on the front bell crank. I attached the cable at a point on the bracket where the throw equaled 1 5/8". The throw at the bell crank matches that of the servo cable.

Am I paranoid? Probably, but I do feel better about it all...

Ron :mrgreen:
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I notice the dark blue tach wire from the Rostra servo unit does not have an in-line noise suppressor like the one on my Audiovox vacuum unit. The manual makes no mention of it. This OK?
TIA Ian, Iowa
 

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Apparently Rostra doesn't think it necessary for the Global Cruise. With the CCS-100 it was just a resistor - 200 ohms, if I remember right.

BTW, I don't use the tach connection.

Ron :mrgreen:
 
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