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Yup it is accurate. GW and realshelby are the two main folks who helped me get mine working. I just reread the last two pages, and man they really did have patience with me. Without their help it would not have happened. I also posted my wiring diagram of how i wired my 09 650.
I'll never forget opening up the box and a million wires were all over the place-it was like what have I done?
You'll get it.
 
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So I both the cruise and the control pad in the mail today.. now the wiring diagram really doesn't make sense.

They've taken the blue wire out of the pad which went to ground in the schematic.. The other missing wires were already unused according to the diagram, but the absence of the only wire going to ground isn't gonna cut it.

The cruise unit also clearly says that the black wire is ground.

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I think you'd do better to finish wiring in the switch, instead of crossing wires. I think the unit looks at all the connections, so I doubt it's an easy task to enter the troubleshooting mode like that. I ordered the 250-3593 on Amazon for about $16 and it was here in 2 days. Works great. Has a backlight to see the buttons, and a power light when cruise is on, but no engagement light. Nobody seems to get that working anyway, so I didn't want to spend the $50 or 60 for it.

I got my system all wired up a couple weeks ago, but it had been snowing a bunch, so there was no way to get it out and test it. Yesterday it was sunny and hit 50* so I took it for a short ride and all is working well. Nice setup! I think it will be handy for my upcoming trip out west in a little over a week.
Did your control pad have a blue wire?

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Think I found the issue.. I ordered the $16 control switch off Amazon, but that unit is not the correct part number. The 250-3593 unit is $51, but I can tell from the picture that it does, in fact, have all the wires from the diagram.

Let's try this again..thank God for Amazon prime.

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So I've got everything installed and hooked up electrically.. I'm only getting 7 volts from my hots to the ground wires.

Coming from a distribution block.. when I check hot terminal to ground I get 12V, but hot terminal to single ground wire removed from its terminal the voltage drops to 7V.

Running the troubleshooting from Rostra I'm not getting past the first test after supposedly getting into diagnostic mode. Is there a way to tell if you are actually in diagnostic mode?

Side note..the "ON" LED on my pad does not come on at all. I've checked voltage and connection in EVERY connection and tested the outputs from the control pad. I know I have power to the pad, I know I have power to the unit, I know the R/A and S/C are giving 12V when pushed closed.

Way to much info for a suggestion probably, just throwing it out.

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Cutstavo, I wonder what is up with your post count? I see multiple posts in a row....and you have zero posts!

I think the diagnostic LED is on the Rostra unit. Not the switch. Been a while, but I think that is right.

Not sure what you mean by your voltage tests. If you are removing the ground wire from the terminal, then testing across to it, that means it is no longer grounded. Any voltage you see is feedback through some component in the Rostra to another ground source. Which would explain the lower voltage. It also might no be good for the Rostra!
 

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I should be that last one giving help on anything electrical, but with the help of GW and RS I got it done. Now, go to my post #167 and look at my finished wiring diagram. It is how I finished getting it working on my K9 650, and then go to GW's post, #168 :smile2:
 

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Hello there Wee members.
My name is Wagner and I am from brazil. This is my first message in the site an I hope that the Wee members can help me.
I had a Vstrom 2010 where I installed a rostra eletronic cruise control that worked so fine in my 110000Km (69K miles). In 2015 I purchased the new version and exchange the same installation process to the new Wee and works in all my 90000 KM (56k miles). Last july I purchased the new version of Vstrom 650 Xt (2018) and couples days a I am trying install my rostra following the same wiring diagram, but unfortunately did not worked.
I did some changes and now I am using the wire diagram bellow. In the all Wees diagram I used relay, fuse box, and on/on momentary switch.
Have the members any idea why my wiring diagram is not working in the new Vstrom? Could be because de new traction control system in the new Wee ? I will be very thankful if the members help me in this annoying situation.
My best.
 

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Did you run the built in diagnostic program on the Rostra? Could be something as simply as a wire not connected to the right wire or a poor connection. The diagnostic mode will tell you where to look for what is wrong.
 

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Thanks realshelby by the information. I will try it but maybe I will get some problem to put the module in self-diagnostic procedure in my Vstrom because I haven´t rostra Control Switch. I´m using on/off momentary switch.
In relation to the wiring diagram: should the module work if done correctly?
Thanks again.
 

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Do your old and new bikes both have LED stop lights ?


If your 2015 did not and your 2017 does that could be the problem.


I have never worked on a Rostra but the stop light will play a big part in any cruise control.
 

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Hi Rolex.
The brake lights is led.
I measured the wires voltage and got 12V on red-brown wire (hot) and 4.5V on violet wire (cold) of module with bike key ON without brake pressure. With brake pressure I got 12V on both wires.
 

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Thanks realshelby by the information. I will try it but maybe I will get some problem to put the module in self-diagnostic procedure in my Vstrom because I haven´t rostra Control Switch. I´m using on/off momentary switch.
In relation to the wiring diagram: should the module work if done correctly?
Thanks again.
Not sure how the momentary switch worked on the Wee? Or why you would want that over the switch that allows on/off, cancel, resume, speed increase? Since you are trying to go a completely different route of making this work, my experience with it won't do much good. I do know that the ability to put the unit in diagnostic mode makes figuring out why it isn't working a fairly straightforward process. Without the "proper" switch, there is no way to access the diagnostic mode.
 

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Not sure how the momentary switch worked on the Wee? Or why you would want that over the switch that allows on/off, cancel, resume, speed increase? Since you are trying to go a completely different route of making this work, my experience with it won't do much good. I do know that the ability to put the unit in diagnostic mode makes figuring out why it isn't working a fairly straightforward process. Without the "proper" switch, there is no way to access the diagnostic mode.
In my 2 previous Wee the momentary switch worked very fine for 9 years and 200.000Km, and in the new Vstrom 2018 maybe the problem is in wiring diagram and not switch or poor wire connections.
By the way, I am taking out the wire connectors and soldering the wires. I hope this work now.

I am putting photos of the location of the module rostra to whoever has interest, too.

thank you for now.
 

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Hi Rolex.
The brake lights is led.
I measured the wires voltage and got 12V on red-brown wire (hot) and 4.5V on violet wire (cold) of module with bike key ON without brake pressure. With brake pressure I got 12V on both wires.
Was it also LED on the last bike ?
 

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I've not had anything to do with your brand of control but the ones I have dealt with required the stop light globe to be in good working order before the system could be set.

"I assumed" the unit was looking for a earth source that it got through the stop light filament, that earth would drop out when the brakes were applied and 12v power was sent to the globe.


That would not happen with a LED light.


You could try wiring the stop light wire through a switch and to earth to see if you can now set your system, you would need to flick the switch to unset the system.

"If it does work that way" ?? it would be easy to set up a relay so you get a constant earth until the brakes are applied, then the relay opens and the earth drops out.

Do a search I would think there would be others that have fitted your system to a bike with a LED brake light.
 
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