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I recently installed the Rostra “Global Cruise” electronic cruise control system on my ‘06 DL1000. It works great, and for anyone else who’s interested, here’s the rundown. I warn you now; it’s lengthy and detailed, and I am in no way a professional cruise control system installer, so take this for what it’s worth. Refer to the pictures if my words confuse you. PM me with your e-mail if you'd like me to send you higher resolution photos. The instructions continue through three posts.

General Info:

First, have a look at this link where Roy Bertalotto discusses his installation on a DL650. It’s where I first got the idea to go the electronic route rather than the common Audiovox vacuum route:
https://www.vstrom.info/Smf/index.php/topic,1088.0.html

Then have a look at his detailed write-up of the installation of the Audiovox system on a DL650. It’s a very similar process to installing the Rostra system (apparently, Rostra makes the Audiovox system), except you can ignore all the vacuum stuff and there are a couple of slight wiring differences mainly to do with wire colours: http://rvbprecision.com/motorcycles/motorcycle-electronic-cruise-control.html
That should give you an idea of what you’re up against.

I tried to purchase the unit in Canada, but the only place I could find it wanted over $400 for the cruise unit and switch. I ended up buying it online from Brandon Distributing for $203 USD and having it shipped to the border. I declared it and brought it across without paying anything more, duty or taxes.


Disassembly:

First you’ll have to tear down the bike, taking the plastic side fairing pieces off in order to get access. You also have to remove the gas tank and the airbox. For the installation I did, you must also remove the throttle bodies in order to drill a hole and tap some threads into the throttle body bracket. Others have got away without doing this, but I thought it made for a cleaner installation (I connected to the front cylinder throttle linkage rather than the rear, which it seems most others have done). More on that later.

Installation:

Then you will have to decide where to locate the main cruise unit and the control switch. I mounted the switch off the left mirror stalk, to the left and ahead of the mirror, above the flash to pass lever, which allows me to use my left thumb to operate the system without removing my hand from the grip. I made a bracket out of a piece of scrap aluminium angle and cut the stalks off of the back of the switch and just used Goop to stick it to the aluminum. To make the switch watertight, I used Goop to seal around the switch casing and the grommet I used to hold the wires. When I get around to it, I will paint it black.I was able to fit the main box into the right-side rear panel, just behind the rear brake reservoir. Roy Bertalotto says it won’t fit there, but it does. It is a tight squeeze, though, and I did file down the box a very little bit where it rests against a weld on the frame rail. I also filed down the weld on the little bracket that is attached to the frame rail (I guess it's for locking helmets onto …). I zap strapped the box to the frame. This way, you don’t have to give up any under-the-seat storage.

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
You will have to decide which connectors you want to use to attach to the throttle linkage. Initially, I tried connecting to the rear cylinder linkage, but found the clearance under the gas tank to be too limiting to get a good pull angle with the cruise cable. Instead, I fed the cable past the rear throttle linkage and along the throttle body bracket to the front cylinder linkage. The rod linking the rear and front throttle bodies pops off easily and you just slip a connector onto the pin and replace the rod. I used the connector labelled G7 in the kit and crimped a length of bead chain onto it. The bead chain connects to the cruise cable. (Note: the bits and pieces that come with the Rostra electronic cruise are not the same as the bits and pieces that come with the Audiovox CC100 and you hardly use any of them. They just provide you with a lot of options.)

It is important to leave a little slack in the cruise cable. The manual outlines how to determine how much - works out to leaving one extra bead on the bead chain. Initially, I thought I had left enough slack, but after a bit of riding, I found that the cruise cable was keeping the bike from idling right down. Test this carefully before putting the fairing back on, or you’ll end up taking it all back off again.

I used three clamps to fix the cable to the bike. They are labelled G11 and G12 in the kit. One of them is threaded and, after making threads on the end of the cable by using a nut provided in the kit, you thread the clamp onto the cable. This clamp must be affixed to the throttle body bracket and you’ll have to drill a hole for this. I used a screw I had in stock and drilled a hole and tapped threads to match the screw. If you put enough threads on the cable, you’ll have some adjustment to position the end of the cable and to play with the cable slack. I used an existing throttle body bracket screw to attach the next cable clamp and I used a piece of one of the supplied kit brackets to attach the cable with a third clamp. (Thanks to Vstromper for the bolt size to attach the bracket to the rear cylinder head - 10x1.25.20) See page three of link for his photos: http://www.stromtrooper.com/forums/showthread.php?t=24666&page=3

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Wiring:

Next comes the wiring, which for me, was the intimidating part. I am no electrician. When you pull that cruise unit out of the box and see all that wire, be assured, you’re not going to use it all, and it’s not that difficult to figure out, especially if you use the schematic supplied in the manual. If you look carefully, they even print on the wires what each is for. At this point, I would recommend reading the manual thoroughly so you know the principle behind what you’re about to do. I would also recommend throwing away all the quick connectors supplied in the kit. Instead, solder all the connections and use shrink wrap and electrical tape. I used two of those quick connects and neither of them worked well. I ended up removing them and soldering instead. I also cut off the harness connectors, which are really only there to help you feed wire through a car’s firewall.

You have to locate a few wires on the bike so you can tap into them.

The first is the brake circuit, hot and cold. The red wire off of the main cruise unit (with 4-amp inline fuse) connects to the orange wire you will find paired with a black-with-white-stripe wire in a connector just in front of the battery. The violet wire from the main cruise unit connects to the black and white wire in the same connector. This circuit tells the system if you have activated a brake, which will cancel the cruise.

Next is the blue tachometer wire in the main cruise unit. It connects to a brown wire with a black stripe which you can find on the left side of the bike in the huge connector between the chassis and the headlamp/dash assembly. It’s the one with the big rubbery plastic cover over it. This circuit tells the cruise if the bike is over-revving (you can set the limit with the dipswitches), if you have pulled in the clutch for example, and cancels the cruise.

Then comes the vehicle speed sensor. The grey wire from the main cruise unit connects to pink-with-white-stripe wire in the same big connector as the tach wire. This circuit tells the system how fast the bike is travelling so it knows to give it more or less throttle to maintain speed.

The grounding is straightforward. If it’s black, it goes to the negative battery post. Do not ground to the frame; bad things will happen.

The power supply wire colours are different with the Rostra than they are with the Audiovox. DO NOT follow Roy Bertalotto’s Audiovox wiring for this circuit. On the Audiovox it is the Orange wire from the cruise unit and the grey wire from the switch. However, on the Rostra, connect the BROWN wire from the cruise unit (with 10-amp inline fuse) and the WHITE wire from the switch to a switched 12V source. I used the headlight circuit, which is the yellow and white wire found in the big yellow connector behind the radiator. (Initially, I had used the black and blue wire from the headlight socket, but on my first night ride, I found that turning on the high beams killed the power. Oddly, the flash to pass switch didn't kill it, which was how I tested it when I was wiring.)

For the particular switch I am using, which has two LEDs showing power and engagement, you must connect the pink switch wire to something. The little piece of paper that comes with the switch tells you to connect it to the pink wire from the main cruise unit, BUT THERE IS NO PINK WIRE TO BE FOUND ON THE CRUISE UNIT. As best as I can tell, the wire you want is orange and is buried way back near the main box. You might have to cut open the tape to find it. However, my engagement light is not working, though the “power on” light is. A small annoyance yet to be rectified. Ideas??

The yellow wire from the switch goes to the yellow wire from the main unit (resume/accel).

The dark green wire from the switch goes to the dark green wire from the main unit (set/coast).

The brown wire from the switch goes to the red/brown wire from the main unit (brake positive).

The red wire from the switch goes to the 4 amp fused wire attached to the bike’s orange brake wire (see brake circuit wiring above).

Wires not needed:

The blue and grey wires from the switch you can ignore. They are not needed.

From the main unit, you can ignore the light green wire, which is for a neutral safety switch. Unless you have an automatic transmission, this circuit is redundant.

There is also a connector with a black and a light blue wire which is not used for the type of switch employed here.

And there is a grey and black wire paired together that are not used here. They are for vehicles that do not have a digital speed display and require an additional magnet system to generate a digital speed signal.

Dipswitches:

Now for the dipswitches, which are found under the rubber grommet on the main cruise unit. There are 12 of them and the manual explains what they are for. Here’s how I set mine:

1 Off
2 Off Gain is set to extra low (wild ride on High - try it for fun)
3 Off
4 On
5 Off
6 On Pulses/Kilometre set to 6000 - sets the RPM at which the cruise cancels
7 On
8 Off
9 Off Engine/Setup Timer - didn’t notice much difference here - set to 4-cylinder low
10 On VSS source - Square wave input
11 Off Transmission - Manual
12 Off Control Switch - Open circuit

I suspect how much slack you have built into the cruise cable will affect the gain setting, since it has to pull a bit to take up the slack. I have quite a bit of slack built into mine after some initial throttle problems. Next time I have the bike apart, I might take a little bit of slack out, or step the gain back up. Right now, it takes a couple of seconds for the cruise to engage after I let off the throttle.

Testing:

Before you fire the bike up, use the test procedure outlined in the manual. It works really well. There is an indicator LED in there; it’s just hard to see until it lights up.

Good luck. And if you screw this up, it’s not my fault.
 

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WOW! Excellent write up!

I never did get my "engaged" light to work either. I think it's unnecessary and I'd order the controller without it next time..........

Can you do us a favor, and transfer this instruction to a Word Document so we can easily send it around as needed.

And can I have permission to send it out to folks that request the other documents from me. I've sent this out to over 300 folks thus far...............

My email is [email protected]. Please send the word doc there.

Once again..GREAT WORK!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
WOW! Excellent write up!

I never did get my "engaged" light to work either. I think it's unnecessary and I'd order the controller without it next time..........

Can you do us a favor, and transfer this instruction to a Word Document so we can easily send it around as needed.

And can I have permission to send it out to folks that request the other documents from me. I've sent this out to over 300 folks thus far...............

My email is [email protected]. Please send the word doc there.

Once again..GREAT WORK!
No problem. File is sent. You have my blessing to use it as you like, as does everyone else. And thank you for the inspiration to tackle this in the first place.
 

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Does the Cruise Cable stay the stock length or is the a way to cut it shorter for a more direct path from cruise module to the throttle attachment?
 

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I never tried to cut it. It worked fine as it is. Either mounted on the side of the bike and facing rearward, and looped around the back of the seat and over to the throttle bodies. Or mounted in the storage area behind the seat and then it's a direct shot to the throttle bodies.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Does the Cruise Cable stay the stock length or is the a way to cut it shorter for a more direct path from cruise module to the throttle attachment?
I didn't shorten mine, though I thought about it, and might in the future. You would need some way of reliably crimping the end piece back on.

For now, I've just looped the cable once in about a 4 or 5 inch loop to take up the slack. Doesn't seem to cause any binding at all.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Change to wiring!

FYI:

I have discovered a mistake in my wiring. The first time I switched on my hi-beams, the cruise died. If you've printed off an earlier version of the instructions, note the change below (I've edited the original to reflect the change):

The power supply wire colours are different with the Rostra than they are with the Audiovox. DO NOT follow Roy Bertalotto’s Audiovox wiring for this circuit. On the Audiovox it is the Orange wire from the cruise unit and the grey wire from the switch. However, on the Rostra, connect the BROWN wire from the cruise unit (with 10-amp inline fuse) and the WHITE wire from the switch to a switched 12V source. I used the headlight circuit, which is the yellow and white wire found in the big yellow connector behind the radiator. (Initially, I had used the black and blue wire from the headlight socket, but on my first night ride, I found that turning on the high beams killed the power. Oddly, the flash to pass switch doesn't kill it, which is how I tested it when I was wiring.)

I've put over 4000 kms on the bike since installing the cruise, and I'm really happy with it. I road from the coast out to Saskatoon and back, and can't imagine going through the prairies without it.

The slow/accel feature is great, especially when you're riding with someone else. You can match their speed by tapping up or down rather than resetting your speed.
 

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You connected to the low beam feed wire. If you switch to high beam, that wire goes dead. The flash to pass switch turns on the high beams but doesn't turn off the lows so it would still work.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
You connected to the low beam feed wire. If you switch to high beam, that wire goes dead. The flash to pass switch turns on the high beams but doesn't turn off the lows so it would still work.
Yeah, I came to the same conclusion pretty quickly at about 10 pm between Regina and Saskatoon.
I would have thought the flash to pass and high beam used the same circuit, but not so.
In any case, I have tapped into the circuit prior to the switches, so it all works fine now.
 

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I thought I was all hooked up and ready to go. Went for a test ride and nothing. I've gone through "Troubleshooting" in the Installation manual and the diagnostic LED light up as it should with each test. I'll call the tech department in the morning. I'm wondering if my Cruise Cable is bad. It will slide in and out with no resistance. Is that normal?
 

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Do you have LED brake lights? That will cause such a problem. A free moving cable is normal for a CC that won't engage.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I thought I was all hooked up and ready to go. Went for a test ride and nothing. I've gone through "Troubleshooting" in the Installation manual and the diagnostic LED light up as it should with each test. I'll call the tech department in the morning. I'm wondering if my Cruise Cable is bad. It will slide in and out with no resistance. Is that normal?
Yes, the cable should slide freely.
Check all your dipswitches again. You did EVERY test? I know I had the VSS switch wrong and nothing would work.

Do you have power to the switch? If your switch is the same as mine (with the LEDs), the orange LED shows you have power to the switch when you have pressed the ON button.

The other thing might be it takes a couple of seconds to engage. Make sure the switch is on, hit a steady speed, and then press the SET button. Roll off the throttle slightly and hold it there for a few seconds. You should feel the cruise taking the bike back up to the SET speed. That fooled me the first few tries. I thought it would engage immediately, but it does take a few seconds. I thought that was because I have a bit of slack in my cable, though.

Other than that, double check your wiring?

Or, as greywolf says, the LED brake light will defeat the cruise system.
 

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Do you have LED brake lights? No LED brake light.
Check all your dipswitches again. I’ll check all dipswitches, I think I have them set as you laid out in your install instructions.
You did EVERY test? Yes, every test.
Do you have power to the switch? Yes, the green LED lit up.
I will also try operating the cruise with more time and patience.
 

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Do the check in sixth gear running at least 3200rpm. If that works, then you can experiment with lower speeds.
 

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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
Do you have LED brake lights? No LED brake light.
Check all your dipswitches again. I’ll check all dipswitches, I think I have them set as you laid out in your install instructions.
You did EVERY test? Yes, every test.
Do you have power to the switch? Yes, the green LED lit up.
I will also try operating the cruise with more time and patience.
Okay, herein lies the problem. The green LED should not light up. The orange light is the one that lights (on the left side of the switch, next to the ON button). If that one's not lighting, something is wrong with the wiring. The green LED on the right side of the switch doesn't light (on mine, or Roy's). I think you've run your power to the wrong wire on the switch.

Connect the BROWN wire from the cruise unit (with 10-amp inline fuse) and the WHITE wire from the switch to a switched 12V source. I used the headlight circuit, which is the yellow and white wire found in the big yellow connector behind the radiator.
 

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It's working! I think I need to take some slack out of the cable, it seams very slow to engage. I only have 1 LED on my touch pad, it doesn't have the engagment LED. You guys are great thanks for the help!
 

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Discussion Starter #20
It's working! I think I need to take some slack out of the cable, it seams very slow to engage. I only have 1 LED on my touch pad, it doesn't have the engagment LED. You guys are great thanks for the help!
Congratulations!
What was the solution?
And what switch do you have?
You can play around with the dipswitches to speed up the engagement.
 
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