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Discussion Starter #1
I'm in the process of installing a Rostra Cruise Control on a 14 DL650A. All mechanical connections have been made, and I'm in the process of starting the wiring. For those of you that have done this before, is there any testing that I can do after it is fully wired up, but the bike reassembly has not been started. I don't want to put humpty back together and find a problem that requires disassembly again to fix unless I absolutely have to.

Many thanks to those who have done this before and posted instructions!
 

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Read carefully the test sequence and procedure on the Rostra. It has a self test feature, which allowed me to find I had tapped into the wrong wire for a circuit. Before I had it all put back together!
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Well, I'm partly there. Rostra installed, all diagnostic test performed to verify that buttons and sensors work. Cruise control does not engage. I guess it's time to go back and strip the tank off and check out the linkage again.

I followed Realshelby's mechanical connection. I also set the switches as he indicated. I also followed his wiring after reviewing the Rostra instructions.

One thing that might be different. There was an insert with my unit that states that lost motion is built into the Cruise Control and no bead chain is used. I had to use three beads to fit the cable to the throttle connector. The cable was not long enough to attach without the beads. Any thoughts on this?

The other thing that I noticed is that when I start the bike the Rostra switch shows "on". I'll have to think about that one.

In diagnostic mode:
the "set/coast" button lights the diagnostic LED,
the Resume/Accel button light the diagnostic LED,
both front and read breaks light the diagnostic LED,
moving the bike forward causes the diag LED to light up and finally, the
diagnostic LED flashes with engine speed when bike running.

Any ideas before I take the bike apart?
 

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It may be that there is a delay in engagement rather than that it does not engage at all.

I know when I first went for a diagnostic test I initially thought it wasn't engaging but all that was going on was that it was engaging very slowly. It took maybe two or three seconds to feel it engage. Have you waited that long before punching buttons? Once I figured that out, it was just a matter of playing with the gain setting.

Also, it will only work within a certain speed range (I think you have to be doing at least city speed limits.)
 

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The button back lighting should come on with the ignition switch. The green light between them should be off to begin with then come on when the ON button is pressed. It does take a few seconds after the green light appears to warm up before the SET button will work. I used this wiring diagram. The brake lighr needs to be incandescent. The unit finds ground through the brake lamp filament. Using an LED brake light won't work without an added relay. There are two pink/white wires from the ECM. The one one going to the tach must be used, not the one going to the TPS. The fuse box in the diagram comes on with the ignition.

 

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Discussion Starter #7
It's working! Combination of two simple things, one, a loose ground connection on the relay that powers the unit, and second, not holding the button in long enough for the unit to engage.

Thanks to all that went before and documented what they did!

Two hardest things:
removing the tank side covers (one small Velcro patch held together so good the glue side on the tank broke loose. This will not be a problem in the future.

disconnecting the gas line from under the tank. I know I had the blue tabs depressed all the way, but it took about 40 minutes to finally get it off. This might be a problem in the future. I hope it was just stuck a little tighter because it was a factory install original connection.

Thanks a bunch.
:smile2:
 
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