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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Spent the afternoon installing the Rostra electronic cruise control on my DL650. I located the control unit in the left fairing and connected the throttle link to the rear link per the how to threads on this forum. It's all looking good on those fronts.

With the wiring, I'm looking at doing something simpler than has been done here before by getting rid of the control pad entirely and just using the passing switch to set the cruise. I got the idea from here (see post #29) http://www.fjrforum.com/forum//index.php?showtopic=11194&st=20, where someone replaced the control pad with a small SPDT mini toggle switch.

I'm figuring I can take it one step further by using the (IMO) otherwise useless passing switch, keeping the Set/Coast funtion and getting rid of Resume/Accel, and therefore have no visible signs that a CC is installed. I realise that the CC would have to be powered up all the time and that I lose Resume/Accel functionality, but I think it's a small price to pay for that clean installation look and no need to buy/weatherproof a control pad.

Another thing I am thinking of wiring in is the NSS line, which I had to use when I installed one of these units on my cruiser because it lacked a tacho signal, so that the cruise automatically disengages when the clutch is pulled in. This requires the dip switches to be set for automatic instead of manual gearbox and it works perfectly on my cruiser. The wire chosen goes to ground when the clutch is pulled in, which is what a NSS line does in a car with automatic transmission if it is inadvertantly popped into neutral. As I am LED lightless, all of this can be done without requiring any relays, including the clutch line, well as far as I can determine anyway.

Here's my draft circuit diagram, which I aim to wire up tomorrow. Can anyone see any flaws in my wiring or operating logic?
 

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Discussion Starter #2
No comments yet?

Well, I've decided to press on at least get the CC working with the Rostra control pad and leaving the NSS wire off for now. The system worked well functionally from an electrical point of view, but I'm finding the CC unit very sloppy in maintaining speed.

It seems to have a speed tolerance of about +/- 5 kph at 80 kph which IMO is too much. I've tried all gain settings from extra low to high but all that does is change the length of time between over/undershoots. I've got a little slack in the throttle linkage, so I might try removing one more steel ball tomorrow and see how it goes (I'm doing this after work at night, so progress will be relatively slow).

On an amusing note, I had already set the dip switches for automatic transmission, so when I pulled in the clutch with CC engaged the bike kept revving past 6000 RPM and I had to use the engine kill switch to arrest its ascent. I've now set it for manual transmission and am happy with the 6200 RPM disconnect, so much so that I'm not going to bother wiring up the NSS wire to the clutch switch.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Talking to myself a bit here, but another thing I have found is that people here have been referring to setting dip switches 3, 4, 5 and 6 for a 6200 RPM disconnect. The Rostra documentation however reveals that these dip switches have nothing to do with the tacho and instead relate to the pulses per km/mile that the speed sensor puts out. This rate is used by the CC to determine min and max CC engage speeds, as well as the speed increments for the accel and coast functions. I believe that over-rev protection is purely achieved by the CC sensing a high RPM rate of change rather than triggering at a specific RPM value, but either way it works.

Anyway, the service manual I have doesn't show what the V-strom's speed sensor pulse per mile/km rate is and it would be handy to know what it is to set it correctly. Does anyone know what it is?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Found the answer over at VSRI in a search. The V-strom speed sensor puts out 8000 pulses per mile, which is a bit higher than the 6200 that most here have set their dipswitches to. I've only been for a short ride with it set to this and so far it is producing a tighter tolerance on my set speed. One thing I have had to do is knock the gain down from mid to low otherwise it surges too much on downhill stretches.
 

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do you have any pics of the install? particularly the electronic unit that engages on the throttle linkage? I'm getting ready to install my Rostra electronic unit this weekend on my DL1000 and i'd appreciate any input.

Adam
 

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Did anyone ever use this wiring

I'm going to wire a rostra cruise soon. Has anyone tried this wiring schematic (using the pass switch), i like the idea of a clean looking handlebar.
 

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Found the answer over at VSRI in a search. The V-strom speed sensor puts out 8000 pulses per mile, which is a bit higher than the 6200 that most here have set their dipswitches to. I've only been for a short ride with it set to this and so far it is producing a tighter tolerance on my set speed. One thing I have had to do is knock the gain down from mid to low otherwise it surges too much on downhill stretches.
So what did you finally set your dip switches to? I used the suggested setting most have used and find a surge problem going down hill and when setting speed it will accelerate over the set speed then settle down to the to the initial.
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
I have mine set to low gain, 8000 PPM, four cylinder low set up, square wave, manual transmission and open circuit switch. In DIP switch speak that is: 10 1100 100 1 0 0

I have a similar surge issue going down hills, although it is less pronounced at > 100 kph. I don't have the accelerate over the set speed issue due to the four cylinder low setting but the side effect is that sometimes the initial take up can take up to 3 secs. Once you have set it once, subsequent sets are near instantaneous with no surge over the set speed. The 8000 PPM setting is the correct one, not the 6200 that many have used (it has nothing to do with RPM cutout), however it doesn't really make a huge difference.

I have tried many settings, but I am very happy with the compromise of the ones I have now chosen. I recently confirmed these settings with a 1900 km four day ride. I will not have a bike for touring without CC ever again, it is that good!
 

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Dip Switch Settings

Strom Chaser, just wanted to say that I changed to your dip switch settings and they are almost perfect. Resume is gradual, there is almost no drop in speed when the set button is engaged, braking kills the cruise immediately, and bumping the speed up and down is in 1 mph increments. This is all good above 45 mph. I tried to set at 40 mph and the speed hunted the entire half mile or so. The range was from 37 mph to 43 mph and it never held steady at 40 mph. Do you experience the same thing? Any ideas? I just got the cruise installed this week and have made only two short test runs. I plan to take the bike out for a longer trial run as near the end of this week when the weather gets better.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I find the cruise doesn't work well below 80 KPH (50 MPH) as it tends to hunt too much no matter what the terrain. I have this same CC on my cruiser (VN900) and it is good down to 40 KPH (25 MPH), so I'd say this is just a characteristic of the V-Strom install.

Since the only time I really care about wrist soreness is on longer rides where the speed limit is >= 80 KPH, this is not a big issue for me hence I have not pursued rectifying it any further.
 

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Low speed variation

That was all I really wanted to know. Thanks for the reply. I didn't know if my bike was reacting differently than yours. I agree that not being able to use the cruise below 45 m;h is not a big deal, but I used it on my former BMW at slow speeds to avoid speeding tickets in town. It is so easy to be doing 40 MPH in a 25 zone.

For me, the CC was difficult to install and took me much longer than it seemed to take most of the people on the forum. I know that I will love the cruise and use it a lot, but I still wish I would have gone with the Brake-a way throttle lock and not cut into all of the bike's harnesses. Here is the web site for those who don't know what I am talking about: http://www.brakeawayproducts.com/ A neighbor installed one of these on his cruiser and I thought it was slick.

The Rostra was less expensive and I didn't anticipate the installation time. Live and learn. Without all of the support from this forum, I would never have finished the installation. A particular big thanks to Greywolf for his vast knowledge of everything V-Strom.
 

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Press to Pass switch works ....

Just in case anyone looks at this thread, the press to pass works as a SET/COAST switch. :thumbup: The very first post in this thread (wiring diagram) says you might have to run power over to the press to pass switch but you don't actually have to. One side of the switch has 12V ignition power to it already. Just cut the wire on the other side of the switch and attach the green (SET/COAST) wire from the cruise box. VOILA. Hooked up the cruise yesterday and took the bike for a quick spin last night. At first i didn't think the cruise was working :yikes: until i gently rolled off the throttle and then after dropping a couple KM/H the cruise picked right up. :hurray: AWESOME. Since i have a torn shoulder and carpal tunnel, i can't wait until i can get into some trips this year. Haven't enjoyed riding for the past year since injurying myself. Used to put on 40,000kms a year, last year was less than 6000. Can't wait for some big trips.
 

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Maybe you guys can use this tip as well:



The RH handlebar switch from a Suzuki Burgman 650 Executive has a switch for the adjustable windscreen.

I have the standard model, but I've bought this to control my cruise control.

The only challenge is that the switch uses break instead of make contact sets, so they'll have to be inverted by either a set of relays or pull-up resistors.
 

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2007 DL650A

Bringing this thread back up from the dead. With the help of another Trooper(Thanks Larry!) we wired in my Rostra to the flash to pass. There is a plug dead center under the front of the airbox where the Flash to Pass wires come down.

We tapped into the Yellow with a white tracer and the Yellow:


First attempt had the highbeam indicatator on all the time and I was unable to dim them at all. So I swapped the wires and the headlights worked as they should.....but the Rostra will not engage at all. So, looking at post #13, instead of tapping into the wire I should have cut it and connected the dark Green Rostra wire? If so, which Dl65 wire should I cut, the Yellow, or the Yellow with the white tracer?

Or should I have tapped in to these wires before they came down past that plug under the airbox?
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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The original thread used and SPDT switch and the flash to pass switch is an SPST. I guess it can be wired so the switch can be used to set the cruise control speed or coast once set and the brake or clutch can be used to turn it off. You would need to go inside the switch housing and separate the switch wires from the lighting wires as far as I can tell. The yellow/white is on whenever the ignition is on and the yellow is on whenever the high beam is on. I don't see how you can use those wires outside the handlebar box. They will feed power into the Rostra.
 

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GW, I searched a lot here, and Strom Chaser does not elaborate on how he specifically wired in the flash to pass because you are correct, it ties right into the headlight circuit & I'll bet it does that inside the left had control pod. It looks to me like I should just go ahead and run a SPDT switch up there as mentioned.....sure would not be a big deal and I really would like to get the Tupperware back on so I can take my first ride of the "season".........3 months waiting on this shoulder is enough.
 

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Ok, I came straight off both sides of the Passing switch(cut the harness wires leading to it). Since it is off/Momentary it should have worked by connecting the red/brown wire to one side and the dark green to the other side. I tested all the wires which are exactly how Strom Chaser shows in his diagram and have power everyplace I am supposed to have it including the momentary 12v on the passing switch.

I then triple checked the DP settings also making sure they are correct. I do not have LED brake lights, so I know that is not the problem.....the Rostra will not engage at all. I tried following the trouble shooting checklist, but it is designed for the control head which I do not have. When turning on the bike I do see a red led flash inside the Rostra so I assume it is powered up.

I'm at a loss guys, I have spent about 5 hours post install and I am about to throw in the towel. I did buy a SPDT switch, but really see no need to wire it up since the passing switch does exactly the same thing minus the resume/accelerate side which I don't need. Is it possible that my initial hook up of 12v constant to the set/coast could have fried something on the board?

Last thing I am going to try is calling Rostra to see if they have any suggestions. I know that it is wired up correctly...maybe I have a bad unit??
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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Rostra won't talk to you about a motorcycle application so tell them you put it in a car. Did you go into the switch housing and separate the wires from the switch from the light wires so the switch no longer works on the headlight?
 
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