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Discussion Starter #1
[I looked for a few pages of threads and didn't see one on tires, which surprised me. If there's another thread I should be referring to just redirect me please, and close this one.]

Well as the subject indicates, I'm approaching 9,000 miles on my Glee, which is about as long as I've ever kept tires for on previous bikes. For some reason I have it in my head that a rule of thumb is about 10,000 miles for my kind of riding (mostly in-city commute, with a few long trips a year). In my search I've read posts of other people reporting wearing out their 2012 DL650 stock tires (particularly the rear) well earlier than that, too.

1 - What should I look for in terms of signs that I should / must replace my tires?

2 - What are some common or popular options for replacing the tires other than using a new set of OEM ones and why?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Ah, I should have thought to check for a mama "Supra-Wee" thread. Much time soon to be wasted, as it notes. Thanks.
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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You've learned tires are not Glee specific. All Stroms use the same sizes. Thread moved to suspension and tire tech.
 

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I like the OEM tires, for slightly better mileage Tourance is a popular choice. I've tried a bunch of others, keep coming back to these two choices. What works best for you depends on what kind of riding you do. Anakees, PR3's, and TKC's are also popular.
 

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What are the worst riding conditions you'll encounter? Buy tires suitable for the worst.

For pure street tires, Michelin Pilot Road 3 and Bridgestone BT-023 are working great, with maybe a wet road edge to the PR3.

For the type of dual sport that came on the bike, Michelin Anakee 2 is my favorite, and the Shinko 705 and Full Bore Adv. Touring are also an open tread, cheap but short lived rears.

For rougher stuff, the Heidenkau K60 Scout and the (available in Canada) Mitas are good choices. For full knobbies, TKC80, KAROO, or Kenda Big Block are good.
 

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I also like the OEM tires... I have just about 10K on mine since August (the front looks like it'll last another 3-4K, the rear another 1-2K). I'm considering staying with the same tires when it is time for new ones.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I'm pretty much doing all street riding. I've gone off-road a few times when encountering dirt roads or really badly paved roads but only very briefly.

I have no complaints about the OEM tires except I'm not sure what they are (TrailWings?). I'm also not sure how to check the tread left on them, they "look fine" to me but 10,000 miles is some kind of magical boundary number in my head (whether real or not).

If there's anything I'd look for an improvement on it'd be "traction in the rain". Not because I've felt squidgy on the OEM tires, but just because if people are fairly uniform about saying (say) Michelin Pilots or Metzeler Tourances are clear upgrades over stock, I'd give them a shot.
 

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What are the worst riding conditions you'll encounter? Buy tires suitable for the worst...
What tires do you suggest for the ride that led to this?



(November 2011)

:)
..Tom
 

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Discussion Starter #10
What tires do you suggest for the ride that led to this?



(November 2011)

:)
..Tom

Wow, freezing rain, the Great Enemy of All. I think this beats my "I can't believe I rode home in that weather" pic:




:D

BTW I think I'll try at the Michelin Pilots. I've liked them on previous street
bikes (with earlier generations of the Pilots), and that's basically what I still do on the Glee. I'd rather have 5% better traction on wet paved roads than traction for the 1% of the riding mileage I'd have on unpaved roads.

If only I could last to June on my stock tires, but that's like another 3,000 miles. Maybe. I see some folks have made it to 12-15,000 miles or more on their OEM tires?
 

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Tires are like talking religion; but I have had great service with the dozen or so Tourance (Non-exp) tires I have used on my Stroms. For me they are great all-round tires, although I did get stuck in a snow-drift with a bald rear one once. (I don't think I can knock the tire for that though. :) )

..Tom
 

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How about the big 'when' to replace the rear? I'm at 13,000 miles with the stock rear and it still has tread left. Just wait until it is bald? Is there any kind of idiot indicator built into the tire?
 

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How about the big 'when' to replace the rear? I'm at 13,000 miles with the stock rear and it still has tread left. Just wait until it is bald? Is there any kind of idiot indicator built into the tire?
On pavement the purpose of the grooves is to provide a channel to let rainwater get out from under the tire. As those grooves get shallow they can't do their job as well. If you're close to the wear bars and rainy season is coming, get new tires. (No, in Seattle the rainy season does not run from 1/1 to 12/31--unirrigated lawns go brown in the summer and are just now getting green.) There are always a few riders who won't change tires until they can see the air in them, and maybe feel that exposed cord improves traction...but not me. The same thing on cars--in this state the legal minimum tread depth is 2/32", and 4/32" for snow tires. To be prudent I'd double those numbers for the car tires. I don't think there is an inflection point--the ability to channel the water away decreases proportionately as the tread depth is lessened.

Has anyone ever put on an Anakee or a Tourance or a Pilot Road 3 or a BT-023 and said, "I wish I had Trailwings instead?" I've noticed the improvement in traction and feel on Motocaribe's stroms when he switched from Trailwings to Anakee II's.
 
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