yes. you can save the present sprocket and switch back if you do not like the 16
Replacing front sproket
1 - 10 of 10 Posts
When you do change the front sprocket, read up on the correct technique and steps to remove the nut. Without the right procedure you could be struggling a lot.
In order not to loosen spontaneously, the nut is held in place with a bendable lockwasher that you need to bend back (flat). And there could also be some loctite on the threads.
Also, you may find that the front sprocket area is full of dried road gunk mixed with whatever was used to lubricate the chain. This sticks on the covers, but also on the clutch pushrod. Now is a great time to clean all that stuff out, and put some protection on that pushrod. Haven't done it myself yet, but other forum members have reported success with a Shimano Y8AA42000 cover.
Last, this is also a perfect time to take a good look at the clutch slave cylinder and give it a service. At the very least, if this hasn't been done regularly, replace the hydraulic fluid. But DL1000 owners also regularly report issues with the seal between the piston and the cylinder. This could be caused by an old seal, but it can also be caused by corrosion/pitting of the cylinder wall. The seal can be replaced individually, but if the cylinder wall is pitted you'll need a complete new slave cylinder assembly.
www.motorcyclespareparts.eu
The pushrod is #21
The slave cylinder seal is #24
The whole slave cylinder assembly is #23
When you're done, read up on the proper procedure to fit the slave cylinder again. The service manual omits the step of releasing the tie from the clutch lever. This means you're putting the slave back under pressure. Which is bad, leading to crooked installations, misaligned clutch plates and other misery. Whatever you do, always make sure the piston is free to move in the cylinder when you remount the slave. You need to be able to push the slave cylinder assembly into place, flush against the cover, completely by hand. Only once the cylinder is properly seated should you put in the bolts and do them up.
In order not to loosen spontaneously, the nut is held in place with a bendable lockwasher that you need to bend back (flat). And there could also be some loctite on the threads.
- Remove covers and everything to get access.
- Take a good look at that lock washer, bend the ears flat.
- Leave chain on the sprockets, put a piece of wood on top of the swingarm through the wheel.
- Secure the bike well or have somebody hold the bike firmly. You'll be putting a lot of force on the bike and it won't be aligned with the wheels so there's a real risk of it toppling over.
- Use the appropriate socket and a long breaker bar to break the nut loose. Use the handlebars and the footpegs to get leverage. Alternatively, use an (electric or pneumatic) impact gun. This is one of those jobs where improvised or inadequate tools simply do not work.
- If it doesn't work, carefully put some heat into the nut to soften the loctite. But be careful, don't overdo it. There's a lot of rubber and plastic parts nearby that could melt or otherwise get damaged.
Also, you may find that the front sprocket area is full of dried road gunk mixed with whatever was used to lubricate the chain. This sticks on the covers, but also on the clutch pushrod. Now is a great time to clean all that stuff out, and put some protection on that pushrod. Haven't done it myself yet, but other forum members have reported success with a Shimano Y8AA42000 cover.
Last, this is also a perfect time to take a good look at the clutch slave cylinder and give it a service. At the very least, if this hasn't been done regularly, replace the hydraulic fluid. But DL1000 owners also regularly report issues with the seal between the piston and the cylinder. This could be caused by an old seal, but it can also be caused by corrosion/pitting of the cylinder wall. The seal can be replaced individually, but if the cylinder wall is pitted you'll need a complete new slave cylinder assembly.
Suzuki DL1000 V-STROM 2010 Clutch - MSP
Suzuki DL1000 V-STROM 2010 Clutch - order parts in just a few clicks from Europe’s number 1 genuine spare parts online retailer
The pushrod is #21
The slave cylinder seal is #24
The whole slave cylinder assembly is #23
When you're done, read up on the proper procedure to fit the slave cylinder again. The service manual omits the step of releasing the tie from the clutch lever. This means you're putting the slave back under pressure. Which is bad, leading to crooked installations, misaligned clutch plates and other misery. Whatever you do, always make sure the piston is free to move in the cylinder when you remount the slave. You need to be able to push the slave cylinder assembly into place, flush against the cover, completely by hand. Only once the cylinder is properly seated should you put in the bolts and do them up.
Thanks for the reply, very good information, will print out and save for the future.When you do change the front sprocket, read up on the correct technique and steps to remove the nut. Without the right procedure you could be struggling a lot.
In order not to loosen spontaneously, the nut is held in place with a bendable lockwasher that you need to bend back (flat). And there could also be some loctite on the threads.
As an aside... A 2012 with only just over 8000 miles on it? 800 miles per year average? That's not a lot. There could be loads of neglected areas on a bike like that. Use the opportunity to take a good look at the chain for instance. If it has dried out, you could be missing a lot of o-rings. This is the perfect opportunity to change the chain as well.
- Remove covers and everything to get access.
- Take a good look at that lock washer, bend the ears flat.
- Leave chain on the sprockets, put a piece of wood on top of the swingarm through the wheel.
- Secure the bike well or have somebody hold the bike firmly. You'll be putting a lot of force on the bike and it won't be aligned with the wheels so there's a real risk of it toppling over.
- Use the appropriate socket and a long breaker bar to break the nut loose. Use the handlebars and the footpegs to get leverage. Alternatively, use an (electric or pneumatic) impact gun. This is one of those jobs where improvised or inadequate tools simply do not work.
- If it doesn't work, carefully put some heat into the nut to soften the loctite. But be careful, don't overdo it. There's a lot of rubber and plastic parts nearby that could melt or otherwise get damaged.
Also, you may find that the front sprocket area is full of dried road gunk mixed with whatever was used to lubricate the chain. This sticks on the covers, but also on the clutch pushrod. Now is a great time to clean all that stuff out, and put some protection on that pushrod. Haven't done it myself yet, but other forum members have reported success with a Shimano Y8AA42000 cover.
Last, this is also a perfect time to take a good look at the clutch slave cylinder and give it a service. At the very least, if this hasn't been done regularly, replace the hydraulic fluid. But DL1000 owners also regularly report issues with the seal between the piston and the cylinder. This could be caused by an old seal, but it can also be caused by corrosion/pitting of the cylinder wall. The seal can be replaced individually, but if the cylinder wall is pitted you'll need a complete new slave cylinder assembly.
Suzuki DL1000 V-STROM 2010 Clutch - MSP
Suzuki DL1000 V-STROM 2010 Clutch - order parts in just a few clicks from Europe’s number 1 genuine spare parts online retailer
The pushrod is #21
The slave cylinder seal is #24
The whole slave cylinder assembly is #23
When you're done, read up on the proper procedure to fit the slave cylinder again. The service manual omits the step of releasing the tie from the clutch lever. This means you're putting the slave back under pressure. Which is bad, leading to crooked installations, misaligned clutch plates and other misery. Whatever you do, always make sure the piston is free to move in the cylinder when you remount the slave. You need to be able to push the slave cylinder assembly into place, flush against the cover, completely by hand. Only once the cylinder is properly seated should you put in the bolts and do them up.
1 - 10 of 10 Posts
