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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
They were worn out and had little pieces of rock material in them. Fronts to come. .. IMG_20120411_205726.jpg
 

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Nasty. Did you also renew the sprocket carrier bearing?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Yes. I went with double sealed on all 3 bearings. NSK bearings through my local Applied Industrial Technology store.
 

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Seems like the wheel bearings should go a lot further than 60,000. Do you do a lot of hard off road type riding? I mean subjecting the bearings to water, mud , etc? Do you go through chains/sprockets pretty fast also?
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
The stock bearings arer not sealed on the side facing the elements(outside) so after any kind of water or mud they are going to be compromised so Yes, i have had a huge problem getting more than 10k out of a set of chain and sprockets. Ive bought everything new in the rear end. the onlty thing left to replace is the sprocket hub itself. Aftert installing new bearings, sprockets and chain, I still have a very slight wobble in the rear sprocket...the onlhy thing it could be is the sprock hub. I have a new oem axle in the box but im convinced that the hub is slightly warped or bent....its like pot-medal shit. If onlt is were a machined part and not cast pot medal. My rear wheel runs true. I shimmed the cush drives but i am going to just by brand new cush drives and hub. If it still wobbles ....I will probably scream very loud and then trade it for a 2011 in white...lol!
 

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There are stock removable/replaceable seals for both rear wheel bearings.

The cast aluminum sprocket drum is supported by the bearing and the rubber cushion drive absorbers, and if any of these are in poor condition, it will wobble. If the bore of the sprocket drum is damaged, the bearing won't sit straight and it'll wobble, but it might cost less to replace than to have a machinist bore it true and sleeve it for the bearing, or repairing might cost less. There are some urethane absorbers available from some of the sport bike aftermarket suppliers.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
You need to make sure a new healthy cush hub bearing is properly seated
I have an anodized aluminium bearing driver set so Im pretty sure the bearings are set in the hub well. I shimmed the cush drives with inner tube rubber a few months back.. I put on a new Anakee2 lastnight and the sprocket hub fits in the wheel nice and tight and square like it should. i am going to look into those urethane drives....or atleast go back with oem. There is still a very very slight side to side wobble. The new wheel & carrier bearings, chain,sprockets, axle,tire and reshimmed cush drives took 98% of the wobble away...The only thing left are NEW cush drives and the sprocket hub. I will buy the CDs first to see if that straightens things out.
 

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Good for you to use "sealed" bearings .... an extra barrier from contamination. You didn't re-use the OEM sealsin the wheel hub did you, .... or worse yet leave them out? If you ride a lot of dirt you want that second barrier. The steel spacers that ride in the OEM seals will get grooved too from dirt abrasion in the seal lips... they need re-newing too in severe cases.
The slight slop in the sprocket.... get *new* C/D rubbers.... shimmings no substitute.
I doubt your CAST ALUMINUM carrier is bad/worn Unless you damaged it's bore driving the bearing in crooked.... "pushed" metal. That can happen with the best of tool... even your anodized bearing driving tool set.... wow,... anodized huh?

Did you heat the carrier with a torch to allow for a easy bearing insertion ... a good practice if the bearing is a proper interferance fit. While that carrier bearing is a HD variety it still has no hope of supporting the sprocket loads by itself.... relies on good cushions to help it.

If new cushes are too pricey... more effective than shimming is to spray a film of silicone release spray on the carriers" "splines" and a film into the empty wheel hub where the cushes reside. Then put a liberal amount 100% silicone caulk in the hub along the perimeter eges of where the cushes will reside.
Insert the cushes, wipe any excess silicone that ooozes out. Make sure none fills the space where the carriers' "splines" will fit in. Good time now to just let the goo in the wheel dry completely... several hours. Then later a super snug fit can be acheived by doing a similar job to where the carriers' "splines" fit into the cushes. Only a moderate amount of silicone is needed ... judge for yourself how much to apply and then insert the carrier into the wheel hub. ( Don't forget the spray film of silicone spray release first! ) It'll be a beast getting apart later if not. Before the second application of silicone dries put the wheel back on the bike and tighten the axle. I think this last step is important. Leave it alone for a good while to dry completely. Now you got something.
dave
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
The wheel bearings on my FJR and FZ1 were all fine at 50k too. About 30-40% of my riding on the Strom is on TX gravel and dirt rodes. :Last year was the worst recorded drought in Tx history so to say it gets dusty in the summer months would be an understatement. I finally got the sprocket running true..no wobble...after several hundred dollars. NOW ITS TIME TO HEAD TO THE OZARKS THEN ON TO THE ROCKIES!! The only thing I have to worry about now is the weather. Spring can bring some volatile weather up there in them there mountains. Thanks all of you for the tips and advice. Its good to know theres an altrernative to the overpriced and underbuilt OEM bearings.
The CDs are not very pricey but Im also not going with the oem. I realize that that thing is cast aluminium hub, and ive seen several with "spider webbing cracks", but coming from a racing background I sure would like to see something more resistant to cracks and damage since it is recieving much ot the power transfer. i bet in a competition setting that thing would break quick.... but I also broke the swingarm on a 2011 KTM 450 on both sides 2" in front of the axle from "over shooting" a double( landed on flat ground) so I always seem to find that weak link. I wander if BMW or Ducati use cast aluminium parts in their drive section(s)..??..probably,
 

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Those aren't cracks in the hub but cracks in the mold. The spider webbing is proud of the normal surface and does not weaken the hub at all.
 

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Yeah, a knowledgable sounding fella enlightened us a while back about "check cracking" in casting molds and since they only detract negatively to the appearance of the casted part, manufacturers continue to use them until they're spent. Makes sense.
 

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Guess I better check mine at the next the change. I just did a rear tire change and checked the bearings by feel only and then packed some more grease in there. I'll pull the seals next time and have a good look.
 

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So how did you add grease without pulling the seal, inject it through the seal with a needle? Trouble comes from foreign matter getting into the grease or pounding over the miles. I don't see any reason to add grease unless you clean the old stuff out. There is also the danger of the new grease being incompatible with the old. Wheel bearings are best left alone if they run smoothly and replaced if they don't.
 

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Well, I thought I put some in between the seal and the inner race after I removed the spacers. It might have been another bike I was working on at the same time though, a Honda. But now I get the chance to check it again since I just discovered a broken tooth on the rear sprocket.
 
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