You need to first remove the black givi center rack. Then you can get to the bolts that hold the side racks to the factory rack. There is just one of those to remove to get one side off.
Removing the givi rack on the dl1000
So - I need to remove the left side panel on my bike to get at my reg/rec to replace it. It looks like I have to remove the top box rack to do thisas just loosening the bolts at the front of the arms has little effect. I removed the rubber pad exposing the black luggage rack and the 4 bolts holding it down but I can't remove those bolts to get at the bolts holding down the main rack. Unless I'm missing something, it looks like I have to remove the saddle bag racks on both sides and lift the whole rack up. The side racks are attached to the rear of the passenger peg brackets and to a bracket back near the muffler so that I think I can leave the bracket running under the seat in place. Can someone tell me if I have missed something here or will that do the job? I've never had to remove this side panel before or the racks.
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And there's the problem! It's really difficult to get to the nuts for the 4 bolts holding that center rack (the black rack with the "x's" in the pic) and getting them back on is nearly impossible as there is almost no room to slip in a wrench with the nuts to bolt it back together. It really looks like you have to get whatever is below it off first and at that point I no longer need to remove that rack. I did a little more bending and used more light and noticed a couple of bolts sticking into the rear housing ahead of the tail light. They seem to hold down the luggage rack and the strap for tying the side racks together seems to pass over top of those two bolts. I wonder if I remove those two bolts and disconnect the side racks at the rear position, if I can lift the whole deal up enough to remove the side panel. I hope my description is clear enough for you to understand. Thanks.You need to first remove the black givi center rack. Then you can get to the bolts that hold the side racks to the factory rack. There is just one of those to remove to get one side off.
You need different wrenches then. This is the exact same setup I had on my 2004.And there's the problem! It's really difficult to get to the nuts for the 4 bolts holding that center rack (the black rack with the "x's" in the pic) and getting them back on is nearly impossible as there is almost no room to slip in a wrench with the nuts to bolt it back together. It really looks like you have to get whatever is below it off first and at that point I no longer need to remove that rack. I did a little more bending and used more light and noticed a couple of bolts sticking into the rear housing ahead of the tail light. They seem to hold down the luggage rack and the strap for tying the side racks together seems to pass over top of those two bolts. I wonder if I remove those two bolts and disconnect the side racks at the rear position, if I can lift the whole deal up enough to remove the side panel. I hope my description is clear enough for you to understand. Thanks.
You could try removing the nuts that are inside the tail section and see if you can pick everything up, but removing the givi adapter is a 5 minute job.
What year are you working on? I replaced the reg/rec on my 08 DL1000 and didn't have to remove the Givi racks. I removed the seat. That exposed a bolt head holding down the front of the rear carrier. That bolt went down through the side panel, so it had to come out. I believe there is one more bolt through the front-top end of the side panel that needs to come off. Once the bolts were out, I wrestled/muscled the side panel out. That rear carrier piece of the Vee needed friendly persuasion to lift up and free the plastic side panel, but the Givi racks and everything else stayed in place.I need to remove the left side panel on my bike to get at my reg/rec to replace it.
Mine is an '06 so should be the same. I'll go out and check for those bolts. I'm reaching a "crowbar and big hammer" level of frustration after the fun of redoing the magnets in the rotor only to run into this!What year are you working on? I replaced the reg/rec on my 08 DL1000 and didn't have to remove the Givi racks. I removed the seat. That exposed a bolt head holding down the front of the rear carrier. That bolt went down through the side panel, so it had to come out. I believe there is one more bolt through the front-top end of the side panel that needs to come off. Once the bolts were out, I wrestled/muscled the side panel out. That rear carrier piece of the Vee needed friendly persuasion to lift up and free the plastic side panel, but the Givi racks and everything else stayed in place.
The problem isn't so much the wrenches as not having room to slip in the 4 nuts and holding them in place under the adapter. There is just - and I mean just - enough room to slip in a 10mm wrench. I wish I could have seen your setup to see if it was the same as mine.You need different wrenches then. This is the exact same setup I had on my 2004.
You could try removing the nuts that are inside the tail section and see if you can pick everything up, but removing the givi adapter is a 5 minute job.
The exploded parts view at 2006 Suzuki DL1000 Seat Tail Cover (Model K6) | Ron Ayers will give you some hints. Your photo shows you already have the front bolt from the carrier removed. The exploded parts view above shows one more bolt at the front-top, and maybe one plastic rivet thru the bottom edge. With those removed, the side panel should wiggle and giggle. I think it was the long arm of the rear carrier that needed to be lifted a bit so that the plastic side panel could be fully removed. It's been a few years, so I don't remember all the details.Mine is an '06 so should be the same. I'll go out and check for those bolts. I'm reaching a "crowbar and big hammer" level of frustration after the fun of redoing the magnets in the rotor only to run into this!
No crowbar, no hammer, no removal of the Givi rack.
Have you read the plethora of threads on this forum that discuss the replacement of the reg/rec? Series vs Shunt.
the process for editing a previous post escapes me, so I'm just adding this info as a new post.
Andy
If you have already chosen your new reg/rec, great. IF you haven't, I identified a few things that I used when I replaced mine. Maybe some of the info will help. Check new stator installed -- only 68 V-AC output Specifically, the reg/rec info is in post #9 of that thread.
Andy
If you have already chosen your new reg/rec, great. IF you haven't, I identified a few things that I used when I replaced mine. Maybe some of the info will help. Check new stator installed -- only 68 V-AC output Specifically, the reg/rec info is in post #9 of that thread.
Having just done this on my '08; I used a normal 10mm open end wrench to hold the forward nut. Slips in from the side, little towards the rear. Not a 100% bite on the nylon lock nut, but enough to get it loose. Access to the rear two nuts was from the rear...much easier.
Re-assembly was a bit tricky; use the open end wrench to hold the nut under the brackets and start the bolt with fingers. I tried using a magnet to hold, but it would not.
Good luck.
Re-assembly was a bit tricky; use the open end wrench to hold the nut under the brackets and start the bolt with fingers. I tried using a magnet to hold, but it would not.
Good luck.
To reinstall the nut just stick it to the wrench with a little painters tape across the bottom of the wrench/nut.Having just done this on my '08; I used a normal 10mm open end wrench to hold the forward nut. Slips in from the side, little towards the rear. Not a 100% bite on the nylon lock nut, but enough to get it loose. Access to the rear two nuts was from the rear...much easier.
Re-assembly was a bit tricky; use the open end wrench to hold the nut under the brackets and start the bolt with fingers. I tried using a magnet to hold, but it would not.
Good luck.
Here's what I did. I should just take a pic but hopefully an explanation will be enough. I only removed my Givi top rack once before I knew I needed to modify it. Otherwise you have to remove it from the adapter brackets which is a major PITA. What I did is this. I took my die grinder or you could use a dremel and modified the Givi plate by removing a small amount of the Xs as you called them directly over the main rack bolts. Very little needs to be removed and the structural integrity is not effected. Then a 10mm socket on an extension can reach the main rack bolts and the Givi plate stays bolted to the factory rack. And all of this is unnoticed as the top plastic snap on cover hides it all.
I just looked at you pics and your plate is different than mine. Is yours a monolock and not a monokey? Because your plate looks different or it is at least mounted different than mine. Mine is mounted more forward with the front edge of the plate even with the front edge of the rack. The way yours is mounted my modification would not work as the main part of the plate is over the rack bolts as far as I can see. Maybe your top box has a backrest pad on it and someone mounted the plate more rearward to accommodate? If it doesn't need to be mounted that far back just remove it from the L brackets and mount it more forward. Then my modification would work. It is a hassle to remove it from the L brackets but it will be the last time you ever have to do it once your plate is modified.
His is a monolock, but could be installed in the position you described. Whoever put it on just decided to set it back a bit. I never found it that tough to just remove the mounting plate on mine, had it off a few times for various reasons. But your idea sounds fine - shouldn't weaken the plate much.I just looked at you pics and your plate is different than mine. Is yours a monolock and not a monokey? Because your plate looks different or it is at least mounted different than mine. Mine is mounted more forward with the front edge of the plate even with the front edge of the rack. The way yours is mounted my modification would not work as the main part of the plate is over the rack bolts as far as I can see. Maybe your top box has a backrest pad on it and someone mounted the plate more rearward to accommodate? If it doesn't need to be mounted that far back just remove it from the L brackets and mount it more forward. Then my modification would work. It is a hassle to remove it from the L brackets but it will be the last time you ever have to do it once your plate is modified.
Thanks for the reply. I have removed the plastic clip at the bttom of the side cover but the grabhandle is what prevents me from removing the cover. It is "counter sunk" into the side cover and I can't lift it at all even with the bolts removed on each side. I noticed that the nuts in the tail section are welded to a cross bar attached to the sub frame and the bolts in them pass through the luggage rack on the tail. The rack to holld the trunk covers all of of one bolt and most of the second and this seems to be what is holding down the grab handle unit. I'm not sure I can replace the Givi rack once I remove it to access the bolts to lift up on the grab handle / luggage rack to remove the side cover. The exploded view doesn't show any of these bolts. I have read some of the R/R replacement threads but they didn't cover this part of the job.The exploded parts view at 2006 Suzuki DL1000 Seat Tail Cover (Model K6) | Ron Ayers will give you some hints. Your photo shows you already have the front bolt from the carrier removed. The exploded parts view above shows one more bolt at the front-top, and maybe one plastic rivet thru the bottom edge. With those removed, the side panel should wiggle and giggle. I think it was the long arm of the rear carrier that needed to be lifted a bit so that the plastic side panel could be fully removed. It's been a few years, so I don't remember all the details.
No crowbar, no hammer, no removal of the Givi rack.
Have you read the plethora of threads on this forum that discuss the replacement of the reg/rec? Series vs Shunt.
Thanks, but I have already bought a Shindegen sh775 from our local CanAm dealer. I'll check your thread anyway to see if there is anything I can use.the process for editing a previous post escapes me, so I'm just adding this info as a new post.
Andy
If you have already chosen your new reg/rec, great. IF you haven't, I identified a few things that I used when I replaced mine. Maybe some of the info will help. Check new stator installed -- only 68 V-AC output Specifically, the reg/rec info is in post #9 of that thread.
That sounds like a good idea. I'll definitely have to check that out. This has taken me nearly a month due to various problems (non-bike related) and I'm getting very frustrated at not having my bike to ride as summer slips so quickly away! Oh to be young again so I could just say -"Oh well - I can make up for this next season!."Here's what I did. I should just take a pic but hopefully an explanation will be enough. I only removed my Givi top rack once before I knew I needed to modify it. Otherwise you have to remove it from the adapter brackets which is a major PITA. What I did is this. I took my die grinder or you could use a dremel and modified the Givi plate by removing a small amount of the Xs as you called them directly over the main rack bolts. Very little needs to be removed and the structural integrity is not effected. Then a 10mm socket on an extension can reach the main rack bolts and the Givi plate stays bolted to the factory rack. And all of this is unnoticed as the top plastic snap on cover hides it all.
I thought of that today and realized that I also have a of powerful magnet that I could stick to the back of the wrench to magnetize it and possibly hold the nut on that way as well. Given my usual clumsiness and lack of luck, I might just use both ways. It isn't necessary to move the wrench as the bolts can be screwed into them while just holding them in place.To reinstall the nut just stick it to the wrench with a little painters tape across the bottom of the wrench/nut.
Well, I bought a new combination wrench in 10 mm that was slimmer, thinner and longer than any of mine and was able to get the Givi rack off at last. There are two "s"-shaped in profile plates that the two bolts closest to the seat end bolt onto so that should make the replacement a bit more interesting. I removed the two bolts that screwed into the bar in the tail section and discovered that I still could not remove the 'grab bar" / tail section! It rocks up and down but doesn't come off. At a guess, I'd say it is somehow clipped to the support bar joining the two side case racks. However, it did lift enough at the front for me to wiggle the side cover off! Yay! Now looking at the stock R/R and remembering what I read about other installations, I think it would be OK to cut the existing wires at the R/R and then splice (solder) short lengths of proper size wire (using heat shrink tubing to water proof the joint) to the existing plug wires so as to keep the existing plugs. I would put female connectors on the added splice to join to the new R/R with heat shrink tubing on the sleeve / wire joint. All that would be needed would be a way to waterproof the open area of the plugs which already has some protection due to its location in the side cover. I like the idea of using as much of the stock wiring harness as possible. Then of course comes the fun of putting it all together again and hoping I dont have a leak at the side cover.
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