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Discussion Starter #1
I did this four years ago but can't remember(getting old, sigh)if I was able to get the front end high enough to remove the front wheel without having to take off the fender

By having the "Wee" on the center stand and adding weight to the rear top box.

1) Will this work?
2) Best location on the bike to tie off ratchet straps to ceiling eye bolt as a precaution?
3) I also have a floor jack but the exhaust is in the way, any easier way or center stand is fine

and yes, will loosen all bolts prior to lifting
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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That will work. I tied the handlebar to the ceiling joist from a point between the bar clamps. Also tie the center stand to the front of the bike so it can't fold up.
 

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That's the way I do it. Last time, I didn't even bother with a tether to the joists in the garage, just added a few more bags of fertilizer to the rear seat and top case.
 

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That's the way I do it. Last time, I didn't even bother with a tether to the joists in the garage, just added a few more bags of fertilizer to the rear seat and top case.
I loosened everything in the front and then loaded the top case with 5 gallon bottles of water till the front lifted. I also remove one of the front brake calipers, makes it easier to install the wheel than trying to get both rotors aligned with the brake pads.:grin2:
 

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I didn't load the top box when I did stuff like this; I put a couple heavy toolboxes on the ground on each side of the rear tire. Then I attached a ratchet strap to the handle of each toolbox. The other end of the straps attached to the support arms on my pannier racks (you could use the passenger grab rails too). Then I just cranked on the ratchet straps to pull the rear of the bike down towards the floor, and raised the front wheel. You don't have to stack a ton of weight on your rear rack, and the ratchet straps make it more controllable. Plus, since it keeps the counterweight down low, it makes the bike more stable when you're working on it.

I have two tool boxes that probably weigh anywhere from 30 to 40 pounds; that was plenty to get the bike securely winched down. If you don't have tool boxes like that, I bet a couple drywall buckets full of water would do the trick. I use the same method to remove the front tire on my Super Tenere; in fact, I used it recently when I removed the front forks and steering head.
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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At least one of the front brake calipers has to come off to remove the front wheel. There isn't room for the tire between the two.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Worked perfectly, thanks.

Tying off the center stand was a great recommendation. Couple of buckets of some left over construction material

The ratchet straps were extra protection but probably could have been used alone, large eye bolt into a 2 x4 on it's side, spread over several joists,

One caliper removed, Front wheel came off easily, cleaned calipers, pads,rotors, greased pins etc.

Changed front wheel. The motion pro bead breaker worked well, once you get the hang off it.

Changed brake fluid, the speed bleeders worked flawlessly, just had to be careful not to pump down the reservior too quickly
 

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"Also tie the center stand to the front of the bike so it can't fold up."

Fauntleroy, that is the MOST substantial tie up strap I've ever seen! I've used dental floss in the past but see I need top upgrade to kitchen twine.>:)

Used to run a strap around the exhaust cross over pipe on the BMW's.
I use a floor jack under the skid plate.
It's really simple but takes loosening a few bolts and tie up the calipers with bungee cords to hang them out of the way.
When I take both tires in for a swap I put the axle back in the front and lower it down to a sturdy box.
I've had a bike fall off the center stand before with no wheels. PITA to pick up again.
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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I wish I had a picture of my BMW R90S sitting on its oil pan. The stories you hear about superhuman strength becoming available in panic situations are true. It's still hard for me to believe I picked that bike up off the floor and got it back on the center stand. If I had done the same thing on a couple of other R75s I was charged with maintaining, their longer front fenders would have been destroyed. It's also lucky the sump was flat with nothing below it.



 

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I dumped the '76 R75/6. I used a chain hoist hung from the rafters to get it back up.
Homy ain't no superman!
You da man, GW!
 

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So I'm not the only one. I had to call my son with a cell phone to get him to drive over and help me get my ST1300 off it's oil pan. Lesson learned, keep wieght aft of the centerstand when removing the front wheel or use straps to hold up the front.
 

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I just did this on my Glee. I had 80 pounds of kitty litter in bags on the top box and bungeed the bars. Front Shinko 804 came right off and the new TKC-70 went right on. Easy.

Outbackwack
 

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I always run a strap from the center stand to the front of the skid pan. Stupid easy and quick way to prevent folding up the center stand and dumping the bike while you're wrenching on it (care to guess how I know this?). I then put weight on the back of the bike while one of my girls slides a stack of 2x4's under the skid pan. Have done this a couple of times now - most recently when I removed the forks to put Cogent dampners and springs in.
 

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Bike on center stand, jack under front of skid plate (I have a Pat Walsh skid plate, OEM center stand). Jack as high as you can compress the rear suspension without losing balance, wrestle the front wheel out under the fender. Helps the geometry if the front wheel is turned to the side. I always take both calipers off. It's only four bolts and gives you a lot of wiggle room. No straps or weights necessary.

I do have to flex the front fender to get the wheel out but that doesn't bother me. Did it yesterday. Wheel off in under 5 minutes.

You can add weight to your topbox if you need more rear compression, or put a chunk of plywood under the center stand for more lift.
 

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Now you tell me! :surprise:

I took both wheels off the XJR1300 today for new rubber, rear wheel first whilst on the centre stand. No problems there.

Then I planned to lift the front with a paddock stand but that was a non-starter. The RH fork leg is longer than the left (because of provision for the axle pinch bolt) and the bike wanted to tip so it was back to using a trolley jack under the down pipes.
 

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I used a plate jack meant for cruisers to lift the front of my Wee several times. Worked a peach! Three cinder blocks in the top case, plate jack under the engine exhaust where it gets flat, and turn the jack screw juuuust eeeenough to get the front tire light. The Glee is so very much easier. The Suzuki center stand is almost at the bike's cG, and when up I can raise the front tire by putting one hand on the tail rack. Add in the Motech bash plate and I don't foresee issues working on the front end. Funny thing is, I was going to give that plate jack to the guy who bought my old cruiser. Darn glad I kept it, now.
 

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" Darn glad I kept it, now."

Never give up good tools. Yah just never know when that widget is going to be necessary!
 

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Another reason to get crash bars or frame sliders.

Frame Sliders make great points to put on jack stands on either to keep the front end up.

Crash bars I put a jack stand under the front left corner and it keep the front lifted and solid.
 
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