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Discussion Starter #1
I have an '09 Wee with ABS and am planning on upgrading the rear shock to an Elka, but since I ride solo was going to get the manual preload and skip the remote preload option. Looking at the bike's ABS box, it doesn't look like there's enough room to spin a spanner wrench once I get it on the shock. My question is if manual preload will work on an ABS bike?
 

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wat a few days

after I install my Elka shock without remote preload on my 2007 DL650ABS I'll let you know. Blair at SVRacing said it works ok.

I rode solo and without panniers, I do use a top box.

In lieu of spanner wrench, perhaps use a drift punch and a hammer and tap it lovingly.
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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If it's like the manual collar on my also hydraulically adjustable Elka, there is a set screw in the collar that prevents it from turning by itself since the collar is threaded rather than having positive stop ramps. I couldn't even get the little hex key for the set screw between the collar and the ABS unit. I had to take the shock off to move the manual collar. There is a blank area in the threads on the shock body facing the ABS motor mount to receive the set screw. If the set screw is tightened anywhere else, it will ruin the threads.
 

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Many thanks , GW

If it's like the manual collar on my also hydraulically adjustable Elka, there is a set screw in the collar that prevents it from turning by itself since the collar is threaded rather than having positive stop ramps. I couldn't even get the little hex key for the set screw between the collar and the ABS unit. I had to take the shock off to move the manual collar. There is a blank area in the threads on the shock body facing the ABS motor mount to receive the set screw. If the set screw is tightened anywhere else, it will ruin the threads.
Many thanks , GW; now I can mentally prepare myself for a little aggravation before I get it sorted (after the shock arrives)
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
If it's like the manual collar on my also hydraulically adjustable Elka, there is a set screw in the collar that prevents it from turning by itself since the collar is threaded rather than having positive stop ramps. I couldn't even get the little hex key for the set screw between the collar and the ABS unit. I had to take the shock off to move the manual collar. There is a blank area in the threads on the shock body facing the ABS motor mount to receive the set screw. If the set screw is tightened anywhere else, it will ruin the threads.
OK, just so I have this correct, after installing the shock you had to set your preload with the remote preload adjuster, take the shock off, tighten the set screw, and reinstall the shock?!? :yikes: Does this have to be done every time the preload is adjusted, or is tightening the set screw a one time affair?? If so I guess there's no benefit to getting a remote preload adjuster. I have an SW Motech centerstand which I heard makes removing and installing a shock difficult due to clearance, so this compounds the issue.

Kiwi, I'd like to hear how it goes for you with the Elka, as well as your fork upgrade.
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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Information from this site indicated 10mm manual preload was the way to go before installation so that's what I did. That gave me 25mm of dynamic sag so I had to take it off and change the manual preload to 5mm to get about 40mm of sag at zero hydraulic preload. Once the manual preload is properly set, it never has to be revisited unless you gain a lot of weight.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
OK, that makes more sense, kind of what was thinking, thanks. So it sounds like the manual preload is doable, but a little tough due to lack of space. Since I may splurge on the Elka, I may as go all he way and go for the remote preload.
 
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