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I picked up a 17 Wee last summer and the next night I got a call informing me that I had won an all expenses paid trip to exotic Kabul Afghanistan. What would y’all recommend I need check, lube, replace, etc. when I get back? It will have parked for about ~10 months by the time I get home.


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Battery will very likely need charged, other than tire pressure and lubing/checking chain there isn't much else. I hope you had a full tank of gas, otherwise there is a remote chance you could have some rust in there all depending on where/how the bike was stored/parked? Might not hurt to throw in some Techron fuel treatment as well, as MOST of us here don't believe it to be complete snake oil.


Welcome back and thanks for you service!!!
 

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Big B,

Thanks for the tips. Unfortunately a couple months premature on the welcome home but I am getting close enough to start counting days vs. months.


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Big B,

Thanks for the tips. Unfortunately a couple months premature on the welcome home but I am getting close enough to start counting days vs. months.


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Stay safe soldier, are you Airborne by chance "chrisjumps"? :wink2: My son was in Kabul for a stint, he's out now but was 10th mountain infantryman out of Fort Polk.
 

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Back to your bike. Was it new last year or what mileage?

Unless you prepared it for storage with full tank and fuel stabilizer I would not try to start it, not even turn on the ignition without checking the tank. If there is any chance there is rust I would drain/ siphon out as much fuel as possible, remove the tank, then the fuel pump and inspect. Depending on what you find then decide if all is well and clean the pump strainer filter and put all back together or if not well report back for more suggestions. By not running the pump you will prevent it form a lot of muck being sucked into the pump and possibly plugging up the pump high pressure filter.

With the tank off do all the maintenance items that may be due or at least check the plugs, air filter … Note: Sometimes critters like to make their home in the filter.

Valve check due by any chance? You are halfway there already.
Is the coolant due, goes hand in hand with the valve check because the front cylinder is best accessed with the radiator removed.

Other than that I would check common sense items and ride it. You will see if there is anything else amiss.

Be safe!
 

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I would replace all the gas and engine oil prior to starting it up for the 1st time. Both can cause issues after sitting for a long time.

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Premium, high octane gas, filled right to the top, preferably no ethanol, add double dose of stabil and I put a dose of MMO (Marvel Mystery Oil) to fight corrosion and because it's a mild cleaner. Run it for a minute to get the treated gas run through.

Lube chain and shift points, change oil (depending on how much mileage is on the current fill) put a battery tender on her, and she'll be fine for when you get back.

Safe travels brother.
 

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If the bike has the stock paper filter it will be fine but if it has a aftermarket foam filter that will most likely be toast, they don't like not being used.
 

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Corn juice can phase separate as early as 2 months. Once that happens a fuel additive(ethanol killer) will not help, so I am in the 'pull the tank and dump the gas' corner. Shine a flashlight in there and see if it needs a rinse & if so kerosene is good for that and smells great. While you have the tank off, check that airbox/filter for rodents, it the the perfect medium for a mouse house.

If it's not on a battery tender the battery might be toast, but charge it up and see if it holds a charge then get it load tested at any auto parts store. I picked up a Harbor Freight load tester at an auction for $2.50 and the damn thing has come in handy so many times everyone should own one:
https://www.harborfreight.com/100-amp-6-volt12-volt-battery-load-tester-69888-9191.html

I really don't see any need to dump the oil, it does not separate, or become contaminated from sitting?
 

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Accumalated water vapor separates from oil and rusts the steel. Carbon, water, and sulfur in the used engine oil can combine and create an acid over time. That's why it's recommended changing it before and after storage. There's even a special preserving oil just for long term storage.

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Accumalated water vapor separates from oil and rusts the steel. Carbon, water, and sulfur in the used engine oil can combine and create an acid over time. That's why it's recommended changing it before and after storage. There's even a special preserving oil just for long term storage.

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If you change oil before storage, you most certainly don't need to change it after storage. Of course put me in the camp of doing neither, as any issues of what you state would take years to cause any real damage if any at all. Hell years ago I picked up a 77 Suzuki GS550 which had sat for 15 years, all I did was flush the tank, rebuilt the carbs, changed oil, new battery.......bike fired right up and ran like a top.
 

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I've read the reason to change it after storage is because the additives in the oil have done their job to limit the potential damage from the chemistries and any water vapor that's accumulated in there. It's common for many engine powered devices to base the replacement interval on mileage and time, i.e. 5000 miles or 12 months, whichever comes first.

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I ran my DL650 late last season with Rotella 5w40, put about 1k miles on it, stored it all winter, fired right up and have been driving it on the same oil.

Oil additives have a much higher shelf life than one season of 6-10 months of storage.

The gas is more important IMO. If you can find premium non-ehtanol, topped up, with stabil and a dose of MMO, that will never fail you. I've had generators sit with the same fuel for 1.5 years with that routine, they fire right up.

Here almost all premium 91 octane is ethanol free.
 
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